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Discussion Starter #1
After reading volumes of complaints,issues and resolutions I cannot decipher my own 2007 DL1000 problems.
It was running fine over the winter then I allowed it to sit for several weeks in February without starting.
The weather went below 32F overnight and it was in a carport.
When I did start it ran quite rough at idle and all RPMs under acceleration.
So I:
A) Changed the spark plugs
B) Slightly adjusted the TPS
C) Synched and double synched the Throttle Bodies.
D) Checked the intake boots twice for poor seating. Fine.
E) Changed the Air Filter (With the gasket reseated properly).
F) Checked all vacuum lines for degradation or disconnects.
G) Ran with the fuel cap open.
H) Added Seafoam to the gas tank and burned a few gallons.
I) Pulled the Pump/filter out of the tank, inspected (fine) but did a filter bypass anyway for future preventative care.

And it still runs much rougher than normal with a heavy drop of power.

Any ideas??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I will try this: "For future reference, you can spray or drip water on each of the header pipes. The one which doesn't steam as aggressively is your dead cylinder"
 

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While the water test will work I'm more on an instant results guy. Start a cold bike on the side or center stand then quickly touch each down pipe. With a few seconds of startup if it warm its firing if its cold its not.
 

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Bad gas. No mention of gas replacement or if you inspected for water in your fuel. I had purchased some rotten fuel at an old gas station, bike wouldn't run below 4k and ran very poorly above. I had about a half tank and added fresh gas, improved and after running that out it started running correctly. You can add a splash of rubbing alcohol (90%) and this well help adsorb some of the water.
 

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Just to be sure check that the battery terminals and the grounds are clean and tight. You never know. Metal contracts when cold so there could be an effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did initially suspect either poor fuel or a rubber fitting shrinking in Winters late chill and dislodging something.
So there were several gallons sitting in the tank and I added Seafoam to that. Ran it up to 60 MPH on a back road nearby several times..and no effect. So then I siphoned most of the fuel out of the tank and added several gallons of Premium Unleaded. No change after returning to that same back road for about 5 miles at 60 MPH.
I am suspecting or hoping at this point that it may be an injector (s) and planning on adding seafoam to the several gallons of premium in the tank. The fuel filter mesh looked almost new under inspection.
 

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A couple of other things I've seen to consider:

- Check for corrosion or water inside the various connectors. There's one connector that feeds both injectors that seems vulnerable for some reason; this is where a Power Commander plugs in, so if you have one check both connections carefully and make sure the PC ground wire is hooked up correctly to the battery and not the frame. There are several other connections that can affect running, like the coils. Take the tupperware and tank off and go through them all.

- You might consider having the injectors cleaned. It's quite possible for an injector to get sticky after sitting for a while. Some injector cleaning services refuse to service motorcycle injectors for reasons I cannot fathom (Vee injectors are bog-standard Bosch; absolutely nothing moto-specific about them), but some will. I'll need to do some digging to find the name of the service that did mine.
 

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This is the company I used in 2017:

https://www.rcfuelinjection.com/Store/c/fuel-injector-cleaning

Vee injectors are top feed.


I've used a couple of other companies in the past for cleaning and rebuilding car injectors, but for some damfool reason they wouldn't touch injectors from a motorcycle (they're completely standard Bosch injectors) and I had to find one that would.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have added seafoam and trying to burn off a tank full of fuel, which is my last and final idea. Is it possible some sort of filter (beyond air filter) could be blocked and making it run sluggishly?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update: I finally did a fuel flow test with the line disconnected from the tank and running into a glass jar.
Results are approx. 9.5 ounces per 3 key turns (3 sec per turn pump time).
Unsure if these results are substandard but with the highly rated KEMSO pumps on E-Bay for <30$ I will order and install.

Argh..
 

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Save your $30 and put it towards an injector clean, or take them out, hook up the wiring, and see if they spray cleanly or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
About to try the injector modeling, but in the meantime repulled both (almost ) new spark plugs and examined. Front is fine, the rear had some carbon soot buildup.
Cleaned and reinstalled. Also visually examined the spark plug wires and boot. Fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update: Removed the injectors from the engine and harness. Wired one at a time to a 9V battery, adapted short reductive hosing to the intake side of the injector, and sprayed carb cleaner.
Each produces a strong and steady pattern in the shape of a flared "V".
Safe to say these are not the issue.
All fuel components were pristine upon inspection.
Tank, Internal Filter/Pump,Lines,Pressure and Injectors.
That leaves valves as the possible issue? Would out of spec valves cause the rough undertone at all RPMS and low power through the band?
 

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I would think that valves grossly out of clearance could cause problems. BUT its not very likely that they are grossly out of spec, means leaking. When were they last checked and what were the clearances then?

Another possible but unlikely problem could be that the fuel pump is not supplying the design pressure. I made my own pressure testing rig and my pump was good. Other members told me that you can rent a pressure testing rig at the auto parts store. Maybe worth doing to rule out the pump pressure.
 
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