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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, I admit it. I am a compulsive modifier.

I decided that I has to do something about the stock exhaust. It's quieter than an electric bike.

On my 04 DL650 I had completely removed the pea shooter from my bike. Despite this radical modification, it wasn't very loud, but it did sound a lot better. It was about 93dB. My mates stock Yamaha MT01 was 94dB.

I attempted the same thing on my 2012 G-strom. I thought it would be quieter, as it has a catalytic converter which normally does a good job of muffling sound by itself. So here are the pics;









The exhaust is a similar design to the old one. The end plate is much more painful to remove, as it is welded on. I was very very careful and managed to grind away the welds with the exhaust still on the bike.

The sound comes from the front, and goes throught to the back chamber by the first of 3 pipes. It then goes forward into a middle chamber through what some call a resonance tube (2nd pipe). It then finally goes from middle chamber into the pea shooter which brings it out the back.

By removing the pea shooter you make the exhaust a lot more free flowing, it basically just goes through the first pipe and then out the back of the bike.

I did this mod on the 2012 G-strom and it strangely was a lot louder than my 2004, despite the catalytic converter. It also made a crappy farting sucking noise when you released the throttle and let the revs come back down. I am a little puzzled as to why the 2012 does this, when the 2004 didn't. Anyway, this is how it is.

Do I had to remake a shortened pea shooter. I need to take some more pics of these next stages. But what I did was make a short pea shooter mounted to a round flat plate which sits inside of the outer pea shooter pipe. The short pea shooter added a little restriction, but still allowed the exhaust gases to bypass the middle chamber. I started it back up and it still made the weird sucking farting noise when releasing the throttle.

So I removed my shortened pea shooter (which I have made attached with a single bolt) and put a 45 degree bend extension on it. My aim was to make the exhaust gases come into the rear chamber and have to turn a little before coming directly out the back of the shortened pea shooter. I started it up and now have a pretty good comprimise on sound. I re-attached the chrome end cap with a couple of rivets near the bottom, where they can't really be seen.

Cruising along there is almost no difference in sound. When accelerating hard it makes a little more noise. When idling and cruising below 40kph you can hear it's a little deeper and a little noisier.

It will do until I get around to buying an aftermarket exhaust that I like the look of. If only the Akro had a catalytic converter to make it legal...
 

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Interesting read. And if you're going to get an aftermarket exhaust anyway then no harm done.

Strangely enough, all my previous bike i've added really loud exhausts to as I love to be heard. But i'm determined to keep this bike quiet lol. It's nice to be able to go for a ride without bursting my earfrums for one :). However, I do miss not having it loud when in busy cities or when accelerating hard.

Make sure to let us know what exhaust you get and how it sounds!
 

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Hello, my name is Dave, and I'm a compulsive modifier...

I did this mod on my SV and it sounds pretty good. Not quite as nice as the Yosh exhaust sound, but if I save $700 it was worth it. Who wants a V twin that sounds like a sewing machine! :thumbdown: You can probably get a used stock exhaust off of fleabay in a few months for cheap too.

I was wondering about how to do this on the new wee also. If I sell my SV I can get the Akra Ti exhaust system.

This farting sound you mention, must be from the catalytic converter? :confused:
 

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Has anyone tried to cut off the end and completely and re-weld after gutting?

I am unfamiliar with the innards. Would hate to pop the top just to find it was put together in some fashion that would make it impossible to salvage the exterior can. I built the muffler for an SV1000S that I used to have, sounded amazing. I would like to put the same guts into the stock DL650 can. My plan is to just replace the innards with what I used before.
 

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No, it's more like a car with a hole in the muffler noise.
Bingo......why some waste their time and effort doing this, makes zero sense to me. Pony up and get the real thing, or leave it stock.
 

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Bingo......why some waste their time and effort doing this, makes zero sense to me. Pony up and get the real thing, or leave it stock.
Personally, I don't have $700 for a new muffler, but I do have time and skill to better what is there. Will probably only cost me about $100. Here is what I did for my SV1000S (yes that is a 1000 with a 2 into 1). Full stainless, mandrel bent. Sounded great and the full system was less than $300 and took only a few hours to fab, muffler included.

 

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My experience with smaller and larger capacity bike engines suggests there can be a fine line on performance benefits when massaging exhausts. Too big a muffler exit diameter and the outcome can be more noise and a loss of torque. Without knowing the average valve seat diameter and the ID of the exhaust port it's a fair bet the original header pipes are pretty close.

The diameter of the collector pipe as it enters the muffler is a good guide to the maximum exit diameter on a muffler but the exhaust gas is continually cooling so the cross sectional area of the final exit can be reduced (~ 75% - 80%) The most restrictive components are the muffler internals.

It's "horses for courses" - if tractable power and torque is required from low revs then chopping the daylights out of the std muffler may not provide the desired result - just more noise.
 

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It's "horses for courses" - if tractable power and torque is required from low revs then chopping the daylights out of the std muffler may not provide the desired result - just more noise.
Totally agree, I want to refill the the std muffler, just with better stuff :mrgreen:.
 

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$89 slip-on for 2012+ on ebay

I was browsing ebay for 2012 Vstrom accessories when I came across a seller offering a shorty slip-on for the 2012 and it is $89. I would try that before I cut the stock pipe.
 

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Nine years on a Harley with Screaming Eagle pipes actually made me appreciate that my V-strom doesn't sound like an unmuffled tractor. I kind of like that it's quiet (as I'm sure my neighbors do too).

Though I can still understand the appeal of making a little bit of noise.....
 

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My experience with smaller and larger capacity bike engines suggests there can be a fine line on performance benefits when massaging exhausts.

...................blah blah blah.................

if tractable power and torque is required from low revs then chopping the daylights out of the std muffler may not provide the desired result - just more noise.

Whut a bunch of hogworsh.

Ever buddy nose that any badass dude like me wif a powerdrill, a case of Coorslite, a modems, & and dull quarter inch bit can out-do Suzukis engernearing deportment stroke 4 strok.

You cannot deny the awsum-nis of my bike.

Some dude sed it was so bad it soundid lik it had flat 2 lens.
 

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Whut a bunch of hogworsh.

Ever buddy nose that any badass dude like me wif a powerdrill, a case of Coorslite, a modems, & and dull quarter inch bit can out-do Suzukis engernearing deportment stroke 4 strok.

You cannot deny the awsum-nis of my bike.

Some dude sed it was so bad it soundid lik it had flat 2 lens.
:yesnod: :yesnod:
 

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I was browsing ebay for 2012 Vstrom accessories when I came across a seller offering a shorty slip-on for the 2012 and it is $89. I would try that before I cut the stock pipe.
but... in order to fit a slip on, you must cut the stock pipe... :confused:
 

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2012 dl650 exhaust mod

I recently cut the end of the stock muffler and withdrew the mesh housing
that carries the baffles and restrictor tubes ,cut out the tubes and
welded in oversize tubes and a larger tail pipe [pea shooter]
that just fits inside the chrome end cap.
end result snappier acceleration ,I can hear the exhaust note now.
and faster top end.
I guess the engine can breathe better .
I'll post some pictures of the process on the ausy /nz side one of these day's
 

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but... in order to fit a slip on, you must cut the stock pipe... :confused:
I meant before I cut-out the baffle, screen, etc. You could install the shorty without doing irreversible damage to the stock pipe.

For the record, I have no interest in an aftermarket exhaust for the vstrom. I do not see significant ROI on that mod without an efi programer and a less restrictive intake tract. I did all that on my WR250R and any one part without the others is a waste.
 

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I meant before I cut-out the baffle, screen, etc. You could install the shorty without doing irreversible damage to the stock pipe.

For the record, I have no interest in an aftermarket exhaust for the vstrom. I do not see significant ROI on that mod without an efi programer and a less restrictive intake tract. I did all that on my WR250R and any one part without the others is a waste.
The stock Wee exhaust system is pretty much an all welded system (at least my 2008 Wee is).......no slip joints with clamps except at two places 12" from the head before they collect into a single pipe, so how could a "slip-on" be mounted w/o cutting the stock header pipes after they merge into one, or having a muffler shop build custom headers along with a collector??? An EFI programmer gains you nothing on the wee when used with an aftermarket exhaust.....at least nothing measurable. It does on the Vee. There is another thread "debate" here on the forum on adding an aftermarket exhaust system........both pro and con have valid points. There are weight savings, pretty much little-to-no power gains, while some owners just want a "better sound" (at least to their ears), and others want "bling". Is spending $600-$800 on a full system for the Wee worth it??? Only the purchaser of the system can answer that.........no two wallets are created equal, whether it be "physically" (i.e. the amount of $$$), or in the Owner's mind.

Other thread..............
http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-2004-2011-[-wee-strom-]/131289-any-down-side-aftermarket-exhaust.html
 

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I have no idea of your mechanical abilities but this would not be irreversible for me.

You seem very confident with your response. I am curious about your experience in this arena. Have you ever installed and programmed an efi controller? Have you ever opened an air box and re-jetted a carb?

The stock Wee exhaust system is pretty much an all welded system (at least my 2008 Wee is).......no slip joints with clamps except at two places 12" from the head before they collect into a single pipe, so how could a "slip-on" be mounted w/o cutting the stock header pipes after they merge into one, or having a muffler shop build custom headers along with a collector??? An EFI programmer gains you nothing on the wee when used with an aftermarket exhaust.....at least nothing measurable. It does on the Vee. There is another thread "debate" here on the forum on adding an aftermarket exhaust system........both pro and con have valid points. There are weight savings, pretty much little-to-no power gains, while some owners just want a "better sound" (at least to their ears), and others want "bling". Is spending $600-$800 on a full system for the Wee worth it??? Only the purchaser of the system can answer that.........no two wallets are created equal, whether it be "physically" (i.e. the amount of $$$), or in the Owner's mind.

Other thread..............
http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-2004-2011-[-wee-strom-]/131289-any-down-side-aftermarket-exhaust.html
 

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I have no idea of your mechanical abilities but this would not be irreversible for me.

You seem very confident with your response. I am curious about your experience in this arena. Have you ever installed and programmed an efi controller? Have you ever opened an air box and re-jetted a carb?
No, but I have slept at a Holiday Inn Express before...........

I have a 2008 Wee......with Akrapovic Exhaust......no remapping, no PCommander, no aftermarket air filter. It runs great.....no surges, no backfiring, no flat spots in "normal" road riding. So in my case (on a 2008 Wee), no remapping required. Would it benefit from remapping......probably, with some DYNO time ($$$) to prove this.....but seat of the pants experience tells me it is not required (on my bike) with the type of riding I do. I hope to be able to ride without training wheels by Fall this year.......and the Rodeo was great.....I plan on attending another one someday.

Please show me on a V-strom Parts Microfich where you would add a Slip-on Shorty pipe in the stock system..........not do-able on anything up to 2009 unless you cut and weld the header pipes to accept the so-called "shorty". But you saw a shorty pipe for a 2012 Wee listed on the internet......and they can't post anything on the internet that isn't true....."Ah...Bonsur" (sp).
 
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