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I bought my 2019 V-Strom 650XT Touring model brand new with zero miles. A short while after the first service, I began noticing a strange rattling noise that appeared to only occur when the speedometer read 51 mph on the dot. The noise is best described as a loose washer vibrating at high rate of speed - sort of a metallic rattling sound that is rather high pitched. The noise will usually only last for one second or less, and it seems to be more audible when the RPMs are higher. Fast forward to now. The motorcycle has 4,000 miles on it, and the sound is now occurring at 51mph, 57 mph, 61 mph, and 66 mph. Although hard to pinpoint, it sounds as if it is coming from the front end or directly underneath me while riding the motorcycle. I have taken it to the dealer, but the tech could not hear the noise while he was test riding it. I am under the limited warranty until March 2021, so I had the dealer document the issue I have described, and I am hoping it can be fixed before the warranty expires.

I did record the sound using my phone, and I have included a URL to the video here:

Please let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions!
 

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I bought my 2019 V-Strom 650XT Touring model brand new with zero miles. A short while after the first service, I began noticing a strange rattling noise that appeared to only occur when the speedometer read 51 mph on the dot. The noise is best described as a loose washer vibrating at high rate of speed - sort of a metallic rattling sound that is rather high pitched. The noise will usually only last for one second or less, and it seems to be more audible when the RPMs are higher. Fast forward to now. The motorcycle has 4,000 miles on it, and the sound is now occurring at 51mph, 57 mph, 61 mph, and 66 mph. Although hard to pinpoint, it sounds as if it is coming from the front end or directly underneath me while riding the motorcycle. I have taken it to the dealer, but the tech could not hear the noise while he was test riding it. I am under the limited warranty until March 2021, so I had the dealer document the issue I have described, and I am hoping it can be fixed before the warranty expires.

I did record the sound using my phone, and I have included a URL to the video here:

Please let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions!
I have the base DL650, but I've had a similar rattle from my Givi skid plate. Yours would have been removed when they serviced the bike and may not have been tightened enough, or one or more fastener has worked loose. Go around the bike and push, tug, tap, wiggle stuff to see if anything else could be causing it. Are all the little black plastic rivets for the bodywork in place?
 

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If you have crash bars run a ratchet strap around them and nip it up to see if there is any change, same for the bash plate if you have one.

Then there is the less likely gear and brake levers too.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
If you have crash bars run a ratchet strap around them and nip it up to see if there is any change, same for the bash plate if you have one.

Then there is the less likely gear and brake levers too.
I have the base DL650, but I've had a similar rattle from my Givi skid plate. Yours would have been removed when they serviced the bike and may not have been tightened enough, or one or more fastener has worked loose. Go around the bike and push, tug, tap, wiggle stuff to see if anything else could be causing it. Are all the little black plastic rivets for the bodywork in place?
I don't have a skid plate, but I did remove the flimsy plastic guard that comes with the bike. No difference unfortunately...the noise was still there. I have walked around and tugged/wiggled just about every piece possible, but nothing appears loose. I am wondering if it could be clutch related at this point? The sound occurs no matter which gear I am in.
 

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Do you have crash bars ?

The Givi bars work loose but it is not the triangle plate that bolts to the bike that loosens up it is the bolt that comes in from the rear to mount the bars to that plate and it will only rattle at given RPM's

The strap would tell you that.

How is your chain tension

A clutch would likely be evident in all gears including neutral & at all RPM's

I'm not able to access your link so I can't help there. (work restrictions)
 
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Discussion Starter #6
I do have crash bars (they come with the 2019 Touring model). I will try removing them and see if that make any difference at all. Chain tension is set between 20 - 30mm per the manual. Adjustments to the chain have not yielded any results.
 

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I do have crash bars (they come with the 2019 Touring model). I will try removing them and see if that make any difference at all. Chain tension is set between 20 - 30mm per the manual. Adjustments to the chain have not yielded any results.
That is too tight. As many here have discovered Suzuki gets this one a little wrong. Readjust to 30-40 mm.
 

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I would not remove the bars, just strap them down to apply some tension.
 
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Sounds like something rattly in the exhaust system to me. Like a heat shield. Maybe something around radiator? Loose horn, fan shroud, fan? Brakes/holders? It won't do it in neutral sitting still like resonance at a specific rpm?
 

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Sounds like something rattly in the exhaust system to me. Like a heat shield. Maybe something around radiator? Loose horn, fan shroud, fan? Brakes/holders? It won't do it in neutral sitting still like resonance at a specific rpm?
It will make the noise when the throttle is applied, and seems to only occur when the speedometer shows 51mph, 57mph, 61mph, and 66,mph. In other words, when I accelerate from a stop to 70mph, I will hear the noise exactly 4 times. It is always at those exact speeds. The only relevance to the RPMs are when the RPMs are higher, the noise is louder.
 

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It sounds definitely as a harmonic at a specific RPM. Tie the crash bars to themselves and to the rear subframe. By putting tension on it it will change the harmonic frequency (or eliminate the harmonic vibration). That way you can determine if they are the cause or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It sounds definitely as a harmonic at a specific RPM. Tie the crash bars to themselves and to the rear subframe. By putting tension on it it will change the harmonic frequency (or eliminate the harmonic vibration). That way you can determine if they are the cause or not.
I strapped down the crash bars - a few different ways - and unfortunately the noise did not change at all. I guess this means that it is unlikely the sound is related to the crash bars. Any other ideas?
 

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I doubt that it would be the clutch but to check you could pull the clutch in while the rattle is occurring.
I still think that something must have occurred during the first service which has caused your problem, and that it is most likely part of the chassis somewhere.
 

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So OP says not related to RPM and bike must be moving. Chain? Stand spring? Exhaust shield? Sounds kind of horrible in the video. Clutch pressure does not make it go away?
 

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So OP says not related to RPM and bike must be moving. Chain? Stand spring? Exhaust shield? Sounds kind of horrible in the video. Clutch pressure does not make it go away?
I don't believe I've ever tried pulling the clutch lever at the exact moment the noise occurs (51mph). My hypothesis would be that the noise would disappear. I have previously coasted through 51mph while in gear with the clutch disengaged, and there was no noise. This is essentially how I arrived at my conclusion that it must be related to the clutch somehow. That said, the noise is louder with a higher RPM, so perhaps idle RPM does not create enough engine vibration to cause the noise altogether. I've since located other forums that discussed something called a "clutch snail" or "actuator" being the problem (not tightened all the way). From what I read, this part is located in the same area as the front sprocket. Some have said that replacing the clutch cable eliminated the noise (the noise they described seems to be the exact noise my motorcycle has been making.) I've since pointed the dealer in that direction so we'll see what their investigation yields.
 

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If the clutch actuator was loose it would affect the clutch lever, bringing the clutch lever engagement point closer to the bars. Easy to check. Just remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the countershaft sprocket cover in place and remove that cover to expose the clutch cable end and worm drive actuator.
These bikes are generally very reliable. I'm still thinking that it is a loose panel or two parts somehow vibrating. Your recording is difficult to analyse though.
 

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I’m betting it’s something the dealer did wrong, hope they figure it out.
 
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