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Making my own adjustable Givi Monokey top case adapter

12K views 39 replies 6 participants last post by  richlandrick  
Can't you just use this:

And then bolt that adventure moto-stuff thing to it?

Its the bike specific adaptor/Support so that you can use the older style Givi Monokey mounting plates. Click on the instructions link to see how it all bolts together

You could probabally just redrill the #2 parts for the adjustability you want and not even need the adventure moto thing.
 
Jus buy the SR3112 mounting kit & instead of buying the M5 plate ...buy a universal E251 plate which can be mounted fwd or bkward depending on which slots in the grid you use.
May need ta drill some xtra holes in the mounting plates that come in the SR3112 kit...but thats easy
That is a good thought. I run an E251 on my FJR for that very reason - being able to select the fore/aft position. Not to mention that it mounts a little higher than the M5 type plates
Image
 
The e251 will bolt on anywhere an m5 will.
 
3/16" (0.188") plate would be about perfect. I did find an outfit that will cut various thickness and type plate to about any size needed.

Using 6061 T6 specifically. That's the material Adventure Motostuff used for their adapter, so I'm following suit.

It would help if I had a band saw or at least a table saw. Might be able to borrow one. Working on that.
Fine tooth carbide wood blade installed backwards in a circular saw will cut even 1/2 inch aluminum plate. Just need to wear ear protection. Cut a whole lot of 3/16 diamond plate that way.
 
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Fortunately I have a friend who has ALL the tools. Expect I'll be paying him a visit.

I'd like to round off the corners and knock down the edges, mainly.

It would also be pretty sweet to have a drill press to make the holes. I could do them by hand with what I have at home, but it'll be a lot easier with a drill press.
Time to buy a tool then ;) You can get a benchtop drill press for a reasonable amount at Harbor freight. I got rid of my 1942 Avey industrial drill press years ago in favor of one - which takes up less space and weighs about 400lbs less.
 
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For future work when using hand drill. Start with a centering bit. Drill countersink first with standard bit, drill through hole second .
 
There are a variety of bit tip angles available, but when I countersink in steel/aluminum I am not using tapered screws - I use flat backs.
 
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