StromTrooper banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
abundance of results on the search but I don't see one that describes how to remove the damned thing. I tried the JB weld on my loose 5 magnets only to find out that JB weld has metal properties and tends to move about in the gaps. My magneto looks like a troll jizzed all over the magnets.
I just got a replacement one from the salvage yard. They told me to use a puller --- I nodded then walked away like I knew what he meant. I have bearing pullers in the garage, nothing that will get this magneto off.
I have the center bolt removed and am guessing that there is a tool that goes into the recess and forces the magneto off of the shaft.

any pics on how this is done and what that tool looks like?
http://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom-service-maintenance-questions-discussions/54700-dl1000-stator-rotor-removal.html
and I read this one also:
http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000-2002-2012/121681-stator-visual-troubleshooting-4.html
going to try hitting it real hard.


many thanks!
 

·
Official Stromtrooper.com Sponsor
Joined
·
5,150 Posts
It takes the 20mm bolt or special tool ( which is a 20mm bolt ). A gear puller won't work. Trust me on that. Run the 20mm bolt into the rotor till it bottoms out on the end of the crankshaft. An air impact wrench is ideal here, but if you don't have one just tighten the 20mm bolt as best you can. It probably won't pop off with just tightening, so get it tight and smack the end of the 20mm bolt with a hammer. This shock is what will remove it. Might take a few tries. The rotor to crank fit is a machined taper that makes it very tight. Once it moves any at all, it will come right off. There is a woodruff key in there also.

If the starter gear/clutch is not on the replacement rotor you will have to swap it over to it. You must use heat to break loose these 6 Allen head bolts holding it to the rotor. Virtually impossible to loosen these without damage without using heat.

If you get it going with the replacement rotor let me know if you might want to part with the one you tried the JB Weld on. I might be able to recover it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,437 Posts
It probably won't pop off with just tightening, so get it tight and smack the end of the 20mm bolt with a hammer. This shock is what will remove it. Might take a few tries. The rotor to crank fit is a machined taper that makes it very tight. Once it moves any at all, it will come right off. There is a woodruff key in there also.
Important points here. Get the bolt very tight, then hit the head once with a good sized hammer--3# or so. If the first hit doesn't loosen it, tighten the bolt more and give it one more hit. Repeat the tightening and one hit until it pops. A heat gun to warm the rotor hub and expand it might help if needed. When it wants to come off, it'll pop off. The woodruff key is the half-moon shaped key.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
the STROM is ALIVE!!!
While waiting for the Ricks Electric stator to arrive, I visited the local salvage lot.
Two days prior, someone dropped off a 2008 DL1000 motor on trade. I dont know what the original problem was with the engine but I was able to get the magneto/flywheel and stator off of the bike.
SCORE!
Taking off the magneto on my Strom was the real challenge. I was never able to make it move a fraction of a fraction. The local bike shop took pity on me when I trailered the bike up to them. The mechanic hit that removal tool hard. Enough times that he was about to give up. Then he cranked the removal bolt until near hernia conditions arose. With the slightest bit of a snapping noise, I thought he broke it but, the magneto just fell right off. He never looked me in the eye, and sort of limped away back to the shop. I though for certain he hurt himself.
I carried a 12 pack of cold Dr.Pepper in to the service desk and shook his hand. At least he smiled, I could tell he was not expecting to have worked that hard on a "walk in" issue.
they have my next bit of business for certain.

anyway, back to my garage... I torqued the salvaged magneto on to the point where my torque wrench never made the correct 110 to 115 pounds 'click'. I figured if I was lifting hard enough to raise the front end and the center stand off the ground slightly, that should suffice.
Charged the battery, output is over 12v idling and over 13v while riding around the block.

I am keeping the Rick's part for emergencies, spare or for that next VStrom Rally breakdown. The build is brand new, they are not re-wired old units. The salvage yard had various models in stock and the local Suz-Yam-Hon shop had five on the shelf (various models). I would take that as a very good sign that they are good replacement stators.


now, on to the next fix...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
yet another special tool, really?

Important points here. Get the bolt very tight, then hit the head once with a good sized hammer--3# or so. If the first hit doesn't loosen it, tighten the bolt more and give it one more hit. Repeat the tightening and one hit until it pops. A heat gun to warm the rotor hub and expand it might help if needed. When it wants to come off, it'll pop off. The woodruff key is the half-moon shaped key.
When removing the rotor bolt or torquing the rotor removal tool (bolt), is it necessary to use the funny, closed end wrench with 3 long and 3 short facets to hold the shaft? (Suzuki calls it "Special tool 09930-44530".) Or is there some less special tool that can get the job done?

(Apologies to those who hold thread topicality sacrosanct.)
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top