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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone out there lowered their "V" 1-1/2 inches or so on both ends? Let me explain. I am getting to the age where throwing my leg over a 33 inch saddle is getting difficult and I am not about to go to a 700# feet forward cruiser beamouth. I really do not like stepping on the foot peg to swing my leg over. Lowering it and shorter saddle would let me enjoy the ride for more years.
The "V" and the "wee" have been the best rides I have ever had. Guess you could say I really like the "V" and the "wee". The "V" would be my two-up touring ride so ground clearance would probably not be an issue as my co-rider would let me know if hardware was dragging. Would have to shorten the side and center stands and probably need a different rear shock. My "wee" is the solo everything else ride. Thoughtful comments and suggestions are welcomed.
Thanks
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The maximum suspension lowering is about 28mm in the rear and 21mm in the front. Any more and the suspension travel has to be lessened somehow. Additional lowering may be done by altering the seat. Care needs to be taken as, even in stock condition, aerodynamic forces lighten the front end at speed. It's best to lower the front more than the rear but that is the opposite of what is achieved by maximum lowering.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I can show you the scars. I don't need a wind tunnel to feel how light the front end gets at higher speeds or gets blown around by nearby trucks. Suzuki even realized it and, in 2012 on the 650, took out the plastic piece under the headlights that likes to climb into the air, #7 on the Vee. This is a practical rather than theoretical exercise. Try lowering the front 10-15mm or removing #7. It's free and easily reversible. If you don't like it, change it back. Most people who try it, like it.

 

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I have found buy simply standing on the loop thats welded to the kick stand and leaning over the handle bars that it makes mounting easier.I don,t think it stresses the kick stand mounts either.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I had a 1978 Yamaha XS1100E with a Windjammer fairing that lifted so badly the front wheel didn't have enough contact to steer at a little over 100mph. Fork adjustability won't prevent aerodynamic lift. True, it would be nice if the forks were better. I had Traxxion AK-20 fork cartridges and 0.9kg/mm springs in my 2007 Wee. They improved the suspension greatly but didn't keep the front end down.

I had many posts telling people that lowering the front end would not increase the stability of their bikes but instead do the opposite. That's how steering geometry works. Some people I trusted posted more stability from lowering the front so I finally tried it. It was more stable at speed and quicker in turns. I loved the change. The only thing I could imagine causing that one change to be such an improvement was aerodynamics.

My 2012 650 has virtually the same frame and suspension geometry except for a slightly longer rear shock that has the same effect as lowering the front as far as angle of attack is concerned. It is set up fine as is.
 

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I lowered mine with Soupy's adjustable links, and adjustable kickstand (great good quality stuff), I also lowered the front. I never thought it handled "right/good?" when lowered. I put the stock links back on, and lowered the front a little...feels great now...Biggest handling/high speed stability thing I did was put a fork brace on it.

I have a 29/30" inseam and I put my left foot on the foot peg, hold the front brake, it works great for me....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey, I appreciate all the comments and concerns expressed. I need some help with a definitions of "at speed", "higher speed" and "high speed" These are nebulous terms so I need some numbers to define these terms. I have never experienced the conditions described on my few forays into triple digit numbers and do not make a habit running in the two digit speeds beginning with 8 or 9. I find it too fatiguing, mentally and physically.
My motive for lowering is to make the Strom, "V" and "wee", passable sport touring mounts for two-up or solo riding. You who replied obviously have more strom experience then me when it comes to riding in the triple digit speed range and no doubt more sensitive to to the anomolies described. To be sure, I will pay more attention when "at speed", whatever that is.
When it comes to touring I paraphrase and subscribe to Mr. Louis L'mour's saying: "The ride is the thing, not the end of the ride, travel too fast and you miss all you are riding for."
Thanks again, you have given me somethings to think about.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It's not a point where things get unstable but a ramping up. The faster you go the lighter the front gets. You may notice a sensitivity to truck backwash.
 

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Has anyone out there lowered their "V" 1-1/2 inches or so on both ends? Let me explain. I am getting to the age where throwing my leg over a 33 inch saddle is getting difficult and I am not about to go to a 700# feet forward cruiser beamouth. I really do not like stepping on the foot peg to swing my leg over. Lowering it and shorter saddle would let me enjoy the ride for more years.
The "V" and the "wee" have been the best rides I have ever had. Guess you could say I really like the "V" and the "wee". The "V" would be my two-up touring ride so ground clearance would probably not be an issue as my co-rider would let me know if hardware was dragging. Would have to shorten the side and center stands and probably need a different rear shock. My "wee" is the solo everything else ride. Thoughtful comments and suggestions are welcomed.
Thanks
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Last week I had the first fall over/crash in 50 years of street biking. I don't count the time I fell over trying to bump start my 82 Harley FXRS. Only damage was to the right front turn signal an mostly to my pride.
With an inseam of under 30" my choice, as Greywolf has suggested, was to lower the front end by 15mm and installing a fork brace. That has really found a sweet spot in my Wee handling.

In addition I removed the rubber pads supporting the seat and used a commercial grade of black foam tape to mitigate some of the shock and wear at those contact points. This made quite a lot of difference touching the ground and doesn't affect handling.

High rider and load weight have a lot to do with the bikes handling and can compress the rear shock enough to result in instability. There isn't nearly as much influence on the fork compression with weight change except with heavy trunk or pax increase.

A drawback is having a short inseam but at my less than 150# soaking wet, the lower cg and stability is a positive trade off when solo riding.

I haven't tried removing #7 but I would imagine that it would help but would reall change the airflow through and around the fairing.

Anyone have or know of a used front rt TS for a K6 Wee?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I'd rather cut back #7 to eliminate the area that rides up the air stream than totally take it off except as a test. It would look strange and the left upright part is half of a channel the wiring sits in.
 
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