StromTrooper banner

Lowering the Strom

68K views 57 replies 25 participants last post by  MitchSD 
#1 ·
I am trying to convince a friend to get a Strom. Problem is, he's 5'4" short. He says his inseam is 29-30 inches. How low can the lowering kits bring the bike?

We're planning an AK trip for next summer and he needs a bike.

Anyone? If you've lowered your 2012 model, how is it? How tall are you? Inseam?
 
#3 ·
great result

I am 5' 3" with about a 30" inseam
I bought a 2012 weeStrom after only having tried the previous models.
I quickly bought the KoubaLink lowering links 'V-Strom 2' which lower the rear 1 1/8". The forks are also dropped through the tripleclamps about 3/8".
The bike is now really comfortable to foot around when parking and I'm more confident when stopping, to know I can get good ground contact even with both feet.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I put Soupy's Performance adjustable lowering links on my 2012 and they work well for someone who isn't certain how much lowering they need. These links allow lowering from 0 to 4 inches. They seem to be adequately sturdy - I've used them over some quite rough off-pavement terrain with no problems. Soupy's also sells an adjustable side stand which takes care of the need for a shorter side stand if a bike is significantly lowered.

These might be a good choice for your friend.

Mike
Idaho
www.rtwrider.net
 
#21 ·
soupy's adjustable sidestand

I put Soupy's Performance adjustable lowering links on my 2012 and they work well for someone who isn't certain how much lowering they need. These links allow lowering from 0 to 4 inches. They seem to be adequately sturdy - I've used them over some quite rough off-pavement terrain with no problems. Soupy's also sells an adjustable side stand which takes care of the need for a shorter side stand if a bike is significantly lowered.

These might be a good choice for your friend.

Mike
Idaho
Ride Around the World 2005
its lousy

pointy end to moosh into hot pavement and dump your bike - a really poor design
and
it makes your sidestand springs catch !! (hang up on something)-

took mine off - its going into the dumpster
 
#5 ·
Earlier models had a maximum of 1-1/8" allowable lowering in the rear before the tire could start tearing up the inner fender under the seat. The longer shock with a little more travel on the Glee probably would be about the same. The front travel seems unchanged. In that case, a little over 3/4" would be the maximum.

The front to rear relationship now seems right on. I would want to keep that relationship and lower both ends the same amount. I have done that and lowered both ends 3/4" or 19mm. I don't ride off pavement or go crazy in the twisties so don't need the extra ground clearance. The lower c/g is nice and my 67 year old joints appreciate the ease of getting a leg over the seat and backing up no longer makes my knees protest.
 
#57 ·
After you lowered the front and back both 3/4" were you still able to use a regular center stand, or a special one? How about the side stand?

I am thinking of doing this and I have seen a few threads and even a video for the lowering link, but I haven't seen much on how to adjust the front.
 
#6 ·
Lowered 3/4" front and back, like GW. Rides great, and I can get both feet firmly down now, plus paddle the bike to reverse. I have a 30" inseam. Might also want to consider the factory low seat or taking off some seat pan bumpers to tighten up the seat-peg-bar relationship at that size.
 
#33 ·
Might also want to consider the factory low seat or taking off some seat pan bumpers to tighten up the seat-peg-bar relationship at that size.
How much rubber can be safely taken off of the seat pan bumpers without compromizing the seat?
 
#8 ·
Strictly pavement riding doesn't need as much suspension travel as the bike comes with. Wait until you are my age.
 
#10 ·
It looks great to me.

 
#14 ·
I'm considering some Kouba Links for my DL650 as well but as they lower the bike by about 1 1/8" should I have any concern as to the stability of the side stand or should that be considered as well?
 
#15 ·
Chances are you'll need to deal with the side stand. There is also the aerodynamic concern of front end lift at speed and the slower steering to take into account. Lowering the front by 3/4" too helps some but the older bikes handle best with the front lowered more than the rear instead of the other way around. The Glee does best with equal measures because the rear is already higher than the Wee.
 
#16 ·
I agree you will probably need to shorten the sidestand. My 2012 is lowered one inch in the rear and at the limit in the front, and I felt the bike was too near vertical when on sidestand for it to be secure. It wasn't totally vertical and if care were used in positioning the bike when putting it on the sidestand it might have ok, but I felt it was risky and installed an adjustable sidestand.

Mike
Idaho
www.rtwrider.net
 
#17 ·
what brand etc

I agree you will probably need to shorten the sidestand. My 2012 is lowered one inch in the rear and at the limit in the front, and I felt the bike was too near vertical when on sidestand for it to be secure. It wasn't totally vertical and if care were used in positioning the bike when putting it on the sidestand it might have ok, but I felt it was risky and installed an adjustable sidestand.

Mike
Idaho
Ride Around the World 2005
Hi Mike -- I'm in the situation of needing that sort of sidestand I reckon. My Kouba V-Strom 2 lowering links did the back really well. With the front only lowered about a third of what it could be, the sidestand is only just okay. I'd like to get the front down for the balance that eg GW speaks of. What brand is your adjustable sidestand? -- and is it good quality build? -- how is the size of the foot of it? -- thanks
Chris
 
#18 ·
I have the Soupy's Performance sidestand and the quality seems to be good. It has held up over some knarly, bumpy terrain. The foot is small and can be problematic in soft dirt, etc. I carry a small flat piece of metal to put under the foot if I encounter soft conditions. I'm not sure if a larger foot could be welded on or not but would guess it probably could.

Glad to be of some help.

Mike
Idaho
www.rtwrider.net
 
#19 ·
I have the Soupy's Performance sidestand and the quality seems to be good. It has held up over some knarly, bumpy terrain. The foot is small and can be problematic in soft dirt, etc. I carry a small flat piece of metal to put under the foot if I encounter soft conditions. I'm not sure if a larger foot could be welded on or not but would guess it probably could.

Glad to be of some help.

Mike
Idaho
Ride Around the World 2005
Thanks for that
Checking the bike out with the stand in mind today I see one more question -- Has the Soupy's got the stop thing for the '12 model sidestand ignition cut-out?
As it's an adjustable length, I guess I could just get a mate to weld a larger foot beneath the one on the stand -- if it was a problem.
 
#23 ·
<<took mine off - its going into the dumpster>>

If you're really going to throw your Soupy's adjustable sidestand away I would be happy to pay for the shipping and a bit extra if you would send it to me. I would like to use it in a trial of having a larger foot plate welded on it without risking the one I have.

But, is yours for the 2012 or the earlier model years? It is my understanding that they are different. You show an earlier model bike in your picture.

I haven't had a problem with the springs catching on anything. Even an oem style sidestand can sink into asphalt if it's hot enough. But you are quite correct that the foot is too small, and unfortunately Soupy's does not make a larger foot for it.

Please PM me if you are interested in disposing of yours in this way. I would be appreciative.

Mike
Idaho
www.rtwrider.net
 
#25 ·
Yes. With the sag set for the weight carried, the ground clearance does not change between one up and two up. A heavy duo could require stronger springs and the reduced ground clearance could limit the bike to even surfaces though.
 
#26 ·
Thanks, Greywolf.
I rode my newly lowered Glee today and it is a whole new experience. It handles better to me and is easier to park, etc..
Used Kouba links and raised the forks 5/8". I put the preload back to the stock settings as I had backed it off in an attempt to lower the bike previously.
Should have done this sooner.
 
#27 ·
Do the Kouba links require shortening of the stock side stand? Can a lowered Glee still use a centerstand?
 
#28 ·
It's going to depend on the individual bike and drop whether the side stand needs attention. With the Kouba links dropping 1-1/8", it is likely. A center stand will still work. It's more of an effort to get the bike on it though. Good technique is more important.
 
#30 ·
I have fork braces on the way. Does the brace interfier with lowering the front 3/4"?
Not on the Glee but only the ABS Wee.
 
#32 ·
See my sig.
 
#35 ·
? fork height measurement

can someone advise -- I can't remember how the forks looked initially. When stock -- are the top surface of the fork caps flush -- or is the fork tube flush with the top of the tripleclamp, with the fork tube cap above the top of the tripleclamp? Thanks
 
#36 ·
The top of the tube, not the cap, is flush with the top of the triple clamp in stock position.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Thanks for that GW.
So -- my previous post mentioning the forks above the tripleclamps by7/16" is wrong -- and mine are only 3/8" above.
No wonder I've got great clearance and that the sidestand still works okay.
So -- my steering should be slower than stock with that smaller amount of fork tube through. It feels just fine to me.
I'll have to try the whole 5/8" some time I guess -- just to see the difference. But, I'm happy as they are -- and I don't have to alter my sidestand.

Edit -- after competing the lowering
I have now lowered the front -- to be back to a balance with the lowered rear. Front now 5/8" tube above top tripleclamp.
At first I thought the handling difference was minimal -- just U turns and slow speed negotiating a bit improved.
Now -- after riding some great winding roads including a local uphill corkscrew of a run -- I see the handling is amazing.
So much more alive -- the bike's much more flickable.
Very grateful for all the gems of information on the forum.
 
#38 ·
Steering is quicker as more tube is above the triple clamp. Stock is level. Raising the fork tubes reduces rake and trail, making the steering quicker.

Lowering the rear increases rake and trail, making steering slower. Stock is 140mm between dogbone link holes. Every 1mm more between holes lowers the rear about 2.8mm.

Lower both ends the same amount an steering is the same as stock but the center of gravity is lower, making transitioning between lean angles easier because the same angle of change is a shorter distance to move.
 
#40 ·
update

Just completed the lowering (already having KoubaLink 1 1/8" on the rear) -- by sticking the fork tubes above the tripleclamps now by 5/8".
I haven't noticed any difference in handling out on the open road so far.
Tho I think the handling is better doing tight U turns and such like.
I think that now the bike doesn't lean over enough on the side stand -- so I'll now have to look to getting the stand shortened.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top