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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I made a set of lowering links 150mm between the holes, i got looking at the front forks, i may have a issue with the fork adjusters hitting the bars by raising the forks 1" which is about the same when i install the lowering links. also i have the lowering links predrilled to 1/4" holes, not sure on the hole size till i remove one of the stock link arms, anyone know offhand the correct hole size so i can finish drill them and paint them. the bike is a 2011 dl650


thanks
Chet
 

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A bigger issue on the front is the fork legs slamming into the lower triple clamp. That can start happening at around 21mm.

Other issues include the aerodynamics of your bike lightening the front end at higher speeds even in stock trim. That can make steering vague and hitting the brakes at high speed or even chopping the throttle can act like dropping out of a wheelie. That can be improved by lowering the front or raising the rear 10-15mm. Lowering the rear more than the front makes it worse. Using a fork brace that does not extend above the tops of the fork legs limits the amount the front can be lowered to about 10mm on ABS Wees. Any more and the brace can hit the brake line junction under the lower triple clamp, sometimes loosening the hoses and causing a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
mine is the ABS model too, so for the moment i am going to hold off on installing the lowering links, from what i read, might not be a good thing to do

Chet
 

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I lowered my 09 abs 3/4" on both front and rear with no ill effects in the last 7500 miles. I have 1" handlebar risers so fork clearance at the top was no problem, and I don't have any clearance issues at the fork brace either. My rear spring is about 60% stiffer than stock, however. Rear sag is significantly reduced, so the actual riding position is probably slightly lower in the front than stock. Been very happy with this setup on the pavement. Ground clearance is a bit limited though.
 

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A 3/4" or 19mm front end drop on an ABS Wee with a fork brace is in the danger zone. You just haven't hit enough big bumps and potholes to bottom the suspension to the point where there was damage. One way to limit travel is to add fork gaiters that limit travel. Rancho RS1952 fork boots will work fine. With a stock suspension and a fork brace, cut the bottoms at the second pleat.

Rancho rs1952 by Greywolf, V-Strom rider, on Flickr

With the front lowered 19mm, cut the bottom at the third pleat. The flat bottom will lie against the brace and keep crud off the fork tubes, keeping the seals intact. The compressed gaiters will provide a cushioned stop when bottoming out. You will lose some fork travel, but you won't lose any brake fluid like Travellingstrom did. Trimming the brace is another possibility. Rasing Fork Tubes in Triple Clamps and ABS
 
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