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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I installed the lowering links on my bike today, including a drop of the front end to match the drop of the rear end.

For reference, I'm 6'0" tall with a 30" inseam on my blue jeans.

The bike has been lowered 3/4" (19mm) at each end now, and I not only flat-foot on the ground, I actually have just a hair of bend in my knees, too. I'm sure I'll be back to straight leg with flat-foot when I put the Sargent seat back on here soon.

I followed Rev. Jack's method, including the same Kevin Baker 3/4" lowering links he installed.
http://www.jackphelps.com/vstrom/vstrom650bakerlinks.htm
Best to be a 2-person job just to make the rear end work that much easier (one person on each side of the bike), but the rear can be done single handedly. With the bike up on the center stand, put a piece of 2x4 wood under the rear tire for removal of the original links. Then as you remove the 2x4, slide a piece of 3/4" scrap plywood under the back tire when installing the new links will make the bolts slip back together pretty smooth, otherwise nothing will be holding the wheel up off the ground for alignment of the parts.

**(EDIT-- Stack the 3/4" plywood on top the 2x4 to raise the rear wheel another 3/4" when you go to put on the new, longer links, then the holes and bolts should align pretty well.)

I'd not attempt the front end lowering without a second set of hands, and a full examination of the bolts, etc. before you begin. Loosening all 6 bolts (3 each side, 2 bottom, one top) can quickly result in the front of the bike sinking all the way down!!!!!!! (We caught it by half way and cinched the top bolts to stop the decent, even though we knew the bike would sink after loosening the bolts. It's a touchy job.) Best to have the bike on the center stand and not the side stand like we started out with. My helper (many thanks to "Uncle Dave" who roams this board on occasion, couldn't have done it without you!) sat on the passenger end of the seat to be a counterweight as fine-tuning of each fork leg was accomplished, keeping the front wheel up off the ground. I've got the legs to within 1/32" of each other and I'm done fussing with it. I'll fine tune later if needed. Dave was pumping the front end about as hard as he could when it was all reset, and I still have just over 2 inches of clearance between the top of the lower fork tubes and the bottom surface of the bottom triple clamp when he compressed the forks. I'm not hard-core off road, so I should be fine.

I'm also okay with the lean on the side stand post-operation. Lowering further would have it stand upright pretty vertical, but there is still respectable lean to the bike when parked. There's a harder drop off the center stand, though. Not bottoming out, but it thuds harder. And a bit more tug is needed to get it up on the center stand.

But the bike is now safer for me to be on at stops, and easier to swing my leg over the seat. Mission accomplished.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Lower the front one side at a time and one person can do it easily. Loosen the one side just enough so you can get it to move when force is applied.
 

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Let us know how you like it after you've tried it for awhile, Steve. I'm like you, a hair over 6 feet tall with long torso and short legs.

I never liked the way the shock worked when I tried the lowering links. It got way too soft and I couldn't dial in enough pre-load to compensate. One of these days, I'll order a custom shock.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good job Steve. I was wondering, though, if I lower the back 3/4-1" don't I lose the improvement that lowering the front (raising the fork tubes) made when the rear was stock? Let me know after you have been on a few rides. Thanks.
I'd say yes, you will lose the benefit you had when you previously had just the front changed. In my case, both are dropped 3/4", so the net change is zero other than seat height. I don't think I'll observe any handling changes. Of course, when I get back on here soon, it will have been 4+ months since my last ride, so I probably wouldn't notice anyway. If I changed it mid-summer...
 

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I'm wondering if I can raise the fork tubes while using the sidestand. My bike doesn't have a centerstand and I'd like to get away without installing one. I thought I saw a thread describing this, but I can't find it. I've ordered some lowering links from Murphs Kits and have seen posts stating I can do the install with the sidestand and a jack, but I'm not sure about the forks. Any input?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The forks are the easy part. Put the bike in gear so it won't roll off the sidestand. Loosen the lower clamp bolts on one side so they don't clamp the tube. Loosen the top clamp on the same side just enough that you can move the fork tube in the clamp if you push it. Don't worry about going too far. You can go back and the fork on the other side will hold the bike up. When you have it where you want, tighten the top then the bottom bolts. Repeat for the other side. Doing this will make the bike more upright on the side stand so be careful.
 

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The forks are the easy part. Put the bike in gear so it won't roll off the sidestand. Loosen the lower clamp bolts on one side so they don't clamp the tube. Loosen the top clamp on the same side just enough that you can move the fork tube in the clamp if you push it. Don't worry about going too far. You can go back and the fork on the other side will hold the bike up. When you have it where you want, tighten the top then the bottom bolts. Repeat for the other side. Doing this will make the bike more upright on the side stand so be careful.
I've been meaning to raise my forks a bit, but I don't think I can do that without removing the fairing. Are you guys able to fit a torque wrench between the lower fork bolts and the fairing?
 

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I've been meaning to raise my forks a bit, but I don't think I can do that without removing the fairing. Are you guys able to fit a torque wrench between the lower fork bolts and the fairing?
Yes, you just have to turn the bars some to find the angle that gives you the most room.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I don't consider the triple clamp bolts torque critical. A hand tool fits easily. At some time, you have to develop a feel for how tight to fix fasteners by hand in most situations. It's not like you're putting on a cylinder head.
 

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I was able to get a 3/8" clicker type torque wrench on all of the clamp bolts on the front of my wifes bike. I couldn't disagree more I believe that torque is very important on the clamp bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, I don't have a torque wrench that I'd trust, so I think I'm going to pull the bolts one at a time and apply a drop of Locktite to each one.
 
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