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Discussion Starter #1
When I bought my '14 1000 last year I had them put in a lowering link to lower the bike about 1.5" or so??? I want to put the original link back in to raise it back up again and I was checking out the link they put in. I expected to see a dogbone like what they took out but I may not even be looking at the right thing.

This is what came out -



This is what is in the bike now that I think is the lowering link -



The reason I am asking is because this one looks adjustable so I'm wondering if I could just adjust this one to give me back an inch or so instead of going back to the full original height.

Also, (I think I have seen a thread here before on calculating the front and rear suspension change) how do I know how far to raise the forks based on how far the link is adjusted?

Thanks.
 

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That dog bone is adjustable, whether you have enough adjustment to get back to the stock height is the question.

Do you have the recept for it so you can look up the brand and find out what are the adjustable lengths they say it can do.

The length between the bolt holes on the original is what you are looking for or get under your bike and have a play you may like something in-between.

After adjusting the dog bone and before you do anything else ensure you adjust the ride height and static sag on both ends of the bike, this makes a huge difference on modern motorcycles.

Adjusting the front really comes more down to preference, if you leave the front lowered the bike will turn in quicker, steer quicker, feel more nimble and could even feel twitchy (this is how I have my bikes set up)

Raising the front is easier than lowering so start with the height you have now and test ride the bike, if you think you would like to slow things down a little loosen the 3 socket head pinch bolts on one fork, use a leaver like a big screwdriver and a spacer under the handlebars to push the fork tube down a few millimetres, tighten the pinch bolts then do the other side the same amount. (only loosen one side at a time, the bike will support its own weight on one side)

Test ride again, you should feel things have slowed up a bit, you can push the forks down until they are level with the top triple clamp.

Has your kickstand been adjusted for the lowered bike ?
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Awesome information!

I don't know who the brand is that they got it from but I can probably call them and find out. I was kind of happy to see that it was adjustable because I am not sure that I want to go all the way back to the original height. I will test out the front also because I was under the impression that you had to raise and lower them together.

I have a poor man's job of adjusting the kickstand. We ground out a little notch on the bottom part to help give it more lean. We did it that way to keep from doing too much adjusting in case I did raise it back up again.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you shorten the link to raise the ride height? If so, looks like there's plenty left on that adjuster.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you shorten the link to raise the ride height? If so, looks like there's plenty left on that adjuster.
I think this is right, because the link that they gave me (the one removed) is shorter than the one that is there now so I assumed it had to be adjusted inward. I agree that it appears I have some good adjustability. Another reason I am kind of glad that it is like it is. :grin2:
 

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Have you measured the centerline of the holes on the original and the centerline of the installed unit?
Having those will give you a mathematical baseline as you dial in the height you want. (now & later)

Along the same line, find a repeatable way to measure your current distance between a point on the frame, over the rear axle, and the floor. I'm sure folks here would like to know those numbers, too.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Have you measured the centerline of the holes on the original and the centerline of the installed unit?
Having those will give you a mathematical baseline as you dial in the height you want. (now & later)

Along the same line, find a repeatable way to measure your current distance between a point on the frame, over the rear axle, and the floor. I'm sure folks here would like to know those numbers, too.
I have not measured them yet only compared them to one another but I will do that.
The information on this page may be useful. Check length in mm for a given drop or rise.

Gen 1 and 2 DL650 and Gen 1 DL1000 - AdventureTech, LLC.

Stock length is 140 mm.
Thanks rick!

Jes
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Still haven't measured the actual distances on the links but we adjusted the lowering link in the bike today. Shortening it up which made the bike taller. I got about 1.5" out of it and still have some threads left. It's almost back to stock. I left the front as is right now but may wind up raising that up a little bit. Right now I like the steering and handling as is right now and know that will change when I push the suspension back down. Thanks for the help and info everyone!
 

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To me, that looks like a Soupy's lowering link. If you tighten (shorten) it all the way up, you should be exactly at stock height. (I just removed a Soupy's link off my bike, and compared it to the stock link while both were off).
 

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BurkevilleJosh is right. I have that Soupy's link on my 2014 VStrom 1000. I only lowered mine 3/4" front and back, but still have to use a cheat block to get it up on the OEM center stand (weak)! Found a used side stand which I am modifying to match the drop in height.
 

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My bad! I just looked at the date on the post I replied to and didn't check the thread. Thanks, I will try to keep my head up in the corners from now on.
 

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Im actually glad I came across this revived thread. Any reason not to get an adjustable link for lowering the bike? Until I saw this I thought the only way was to to switch out plates, and hope you like that height.
 

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Im actually glad I came across this revived thread. Any reason not to get an adjustable link for lowering the bike? Until I saw this I thought the only way was to to switch out plates, and hope you like that height.
The height gets very finicky once you get past 1” of drop. I don’t remember the exact numbers but we are in the ballpark of one or two millimeters longer being equal to 1/8” or more in drop.

I haven’t used the adjustable links but I would be a little concerned about getting it set exactly equal on both sides and also about accidentally overdoing it and the tire hitting the rear fender while driving.

If you are careful in regards to the adjustment then by all means it could be useful. I simply went with 1” links along with the lower seat and the dropped fork tubes and this works fine for me.
 

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I haven’t used the adjustable links but I would be a little concerned about getting it set exactly equal on both sides and also about accidentally overdoing it and the tire hitting the rear fender while driving.
In the past when I would lower my woods bikes, I would tape small block of styrofoam under the fenders.
 

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Sorry for the slow response, I have not been on in a while. I have a Soupy's link like the one shown. You are right in that it helps you decide how much you want to lower the bike. I dropped mine 1" and lowered the front forks about the same. changing out mounting plates like those offered by AdventureTech are stronger way to go, but you have whatever height you purchase. Remember that if you lower the bike more than about 3/4", you may have problems with your stock sidestand keeping the bike too upright.
 
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