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2013 VSTROM 650, 31,000 miles. I have a LED voltage monitor that shows different colors for system voltage. Today it turned red twice for a few seconds. I went home and checked voltage with a multimeter and got 13.8 running. I strapped the meter to the handlebars and went for a test ride. During the first few miles the voltage varied rapidly from 13.2 to 13.8. The light did not come on again. My Haynes book says to check connections under the air box. Since the problem is not constant, I hope to find a loose or corroded connection. Anything else I can check?
 

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2013 VSTROM 650, 31,000 miles. I have a LED voltage monitor that shows different colors for system voltage. Today it turned red twice for a few seconds. I went home and checked voltage with a multimeter and got 13.8 running. I strapped the meter to the handlebars and went for a test ride. During the first few miles the voltage varied rapidly from 13.2 to 13.8. The light did not come on again. My Haynes book says to check connections under the air box. Since the problem is not constant, I hope to find a loose or corroded connection. Anything else I can check?
On my 2014 Wee I have a voltmeter permanently installed under the cowling. It normally reads be around 13.88 to 13.84vdc while cruising with a voltage drop to the battery of about 0.2vdc so a little over 14vdc at the battery which is in spec. Last Fall it started to randomly fluxuate more than normal while cruising -- down to 13.6x, 13.5x volts but since it was the original battery I just replaced it and tested the AC volts and R/R diodes which were all in spec. When I did the AC and diode tests I cleaned up the connectors to the R/R and that seemed to bump the regulated DC voltage up a bit. If you are getting 13.8vdc at the battery at 4-5K RPM then that is slightly off the 14vdc spec but 13.8vdc is high enough to charge the battery.

Gen2 Wee owners have had issues with those R/R connections corroding over time thus dropping voltage at the battery a little under 14vdc even though the regulator and stator were in spec. Some people recommend Deoxit contact cleaner to keep them clean but I just cleaned mine with a file and regooped them with dielectric grease. I think it is the R/R connectors that your Haynes manual refers to but you can get to them on the right hand side of the bike behind the engine mount V-bracket just South of the R/R. You might have to free them from a hanger to get access but at least you won't have to remove the airbox which is a project in itself.

If you have the original battery I would just replace it for peace of mind and see if the problem goes away. I would do the AC and DC voltage tests in the manual just to make sure you aren't masking a failing stator or R/R with a new battery. If these are in spec then clean up those connectors and you should be fine.
 

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Thanks. You saved me a lot of work. I could not get the 2 yellow plug apart but the green/white one was easy and I sprayed Deoxit and went for a test ride. The voltage is much more constant now. At steady Rpm .04V was the most +- that I saw.
 

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The green/white connector is for the crank position sensor. You need to get to the two connectors to the R/R which are the yellow wires (stator phase wires, AC input to the R/R) and the black/red wires (R/R DC output to the battery) and clean those. Even though the volts are a little low at 13.8vdc it is high enough to charge it but keep an eye on it. Also, I can't recall but you may have to remove the tank (but not the airbox) to release the R/R wires from the clip/hanger on frame which would allow you to access them from the right side of the bike going forward. I would make a note that if you ever remove the tank to free those connectors and clean them. Also, did you replace the battery?
 

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Looks like my good result this morning was a coincidence since I cleaned the wrong connector. I hope to get the tank off next week and check the connections. What is the trick to the 2 wire yellow? The battery is a Duracell less than two years old. I cleaned and tightened the connections on it.
 
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