Low speed fuelling questions

That sounds more like something a throttle cable adjustment might help. You want as little slack in the push/pull cable setup as possible.
While the first gen DL 1000 did have fueling issues that most would work to fix, the second gen DL 1000 is much better. In fact I have not heard of a symptom like you describe. There can be a flat spot at low rpm, there is a Suzuki TSB out on that.

realshelby said:

That sounds more like something a throttle cable adjustment might help. You want as little slack in the push/pull cable setup as possible.
While the first gen DL 1000 did have fueling issues that most would work to fix, the second gen DL 1000 is much better. In fact I have not heard of a symptom like you describe. There can be a flat spot at low rpm, there is a Suzuki TSB out on that.

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Understood, thanks - I did check the throttle cable adjustment and it's as per the manual at the moment (2-4mm).

Would it be worth tightening that up more?

i have the 2016 1000, and my hand is used to the tricky throttle at low speeds. it took some time, and you should also get used to it, if that is what youre experiencing.

This bike, and my drz, suck at low speeds.

Look into a g2 throttle or ecu flash

Loose chain can also contribute to this behavior.

One thing that I find helpful is a plastic throttle rocker. You would think it makes throttle control less precise but I have found the opposite, it makes it much easier to hold a position while moving the bars at low speed, and make fine adjustments to avoid snatchy off-on.

Thanks for the replies everyone - maybe it's because my last bike was a Triumph Street Triple which had a buttery smooth engine and fuelling and I just need to get used to this.

I had an SV1000 before though and I don't remember it being as on and off in terms of power delivery so I'm unsure if there's something up with the bike or if it's just a characteristic.

I'll also check the chain tension! Thanks.

Is there anything else engine wise I could try? Is boosterplug an answer?

I have tried the booster plug and I don't recall it making the on / off throttle any better. However, by the time I tried it I had already gotten used to the finesse and extra clutch work. If I recall correctly, the ECU cuts the fuel significantly (if not completely) when the throttle closes with the engine above idle. If that is the case, then the booster plug tricking the ECU into boosting the fuel a bit wouldn't be expected to help when the fuel is cut off.

There was an ECU recall that may be applicable to your motorcycle. I personally think that Suzuki altered the fuel cut-off when the throttle closes to make it less severe. I wouldn't go so far as to say that it eliminated the on / off behavior, but after the ECU replacement there was a dramatic reduction in the engine burble when abruptly cutting the throttle and pulling the clutch at the same time. Presumably from not being as lean while dropping to idle.

First of all, that Street Triple spoiled you! (Full disclosure: I love my Triumph triples...). I had seventeen years on DL650's so I was quite use to them and never gave much thought to the low speed fueling. I am thinking its as much technique as anything, being use to using clutch and throttle together resolves many issues. That is just a matter of time and practice. BUT, you mentioned the different exhaust. Mivv claims their exhaust will not change emissions yet at the same time they say they give more power. To get more power you need more fuel and oxygen (air). Regardless of what they claim as a general rule whenever you change the exhaust system on most any bike there is always the risk that fueling could be changed, normally for the worse.

Mostly it just takes time on the bike.

Ignore the book remove more cable slack

Don't change up gears too early.

Try not to fully close the throttle, keep it cracked open if you can (do this on gear changes too)

A throttle tamer can help smooth things out in the lower RPM's.

Your throttle tube has a bump on it, the tamer's bump is a little further around on the tube, this slows down the throttle reaction.

@RSW46 slipping the clutch at low speeds is the best solution and a good thing to learn.

..Tom

I will be doing an Ecu flash when funds become available. Everything I’ve read that a good tuner will be able to make this pretty much perfect.

This is the worst bike I’ve had for low speed throttle. My Full system big bore mod snowmobile was smoother then this.

I've never ridden a fuel injected bike yet that doesn't have that on/off thing, the more cylinders the less noticeable it is, but it's still there. I assume it's just the way they tune FI.
At very slow speeds where it's most noticeable I'll be slipping the clutch anyway like I would in a car, riding just on the throttle at slow pace is bad practice.

Steve _H80 said:

I've never ridden a fuel injected bike yet that doesn't have that on/off thing, the more cylinders the less noticeable it is, but it's still there. I assume it's just the way they tune FI.
At very slow speeds where it's most noticeable I'll be slipping the clutch anyway like I would in a car, riding just on the throttle at slow pace is bad practice.

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All my 4 cylinder bikes and my 2 stroke dirt bike all had miles better fueling then this thing. Feels like they just gave up on making it proper.

RSW46 said:

Understood, thanks - I did check the throttle cable adjustment and it's as per the manual at the moment (2-4mm).

Would it be worth tightening that up more?

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Yes, I like to get the throttle to the point there is NO slack. Or as close as possible. As someone else mentioned, check chain slack. Too much can make on/off throttle a bit jerky too.
Beyond that I might check the Throttle Position sensor adjustment. These are key to part throttle fueling of these bikes.

Thanks so much to everyone who's responded! This morning I checked the chain tension and it was about 5mm too slack, so I've tightened that up, and also taken the slack out of the throttle cable and it's completely transformed the bike!

It's still got a slight on/off to the throttle but it's a night and day difference compared to how it was before. I used to have to slip the clutch way too much at low speeds, now I'm only doing it as I usually would on any other bike.

I also checked with my local dealer and they said my bike has no outstanding recalls so for now I think I'll just spend money on petrol and enjoy the ride.

Gone is the snatchy throttle, so thanks again!

Drop one tooth from the front sprocket, it will reduce the need to slip the clutch.

At times the standard ECU totally cuts the fuel when the throttle is closed so the on off will always be there to a point.

Yes I have seen threads on here about dropping a tooth on the front sprocket and it's definitely something I'll be doing when it comes to changing the chain and sprockets, thanks.

V-Tom said:

@RSW46 slipping the clutch at low speeds is the best solution and a good thing to learn.

..Tom

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I do this often, especially low speed turns

Hi, definitely. A Boosterplug can help you a lot. you may check if it is available for your bike at boosterplug.us. Delivers from USA. In the blog section, you can check an article comparing it to other competitors.