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Discussion Starter #1
I was riding down the interstate at about midnight and all the lights went out. Dash and everything. The safety light is all I had. I kept riding trying to get home and after about three harrowing miles they came back on. I have not had the harness recall done yet. Is this a symptom of that?
 

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Part of the recall is the earth cable, that could cause your problem.

You should not have delayed the recall work as the problem wires were rubbing on the fuel tank, this removes the paint leading to rust and could even be thinning the metal.

The first thing you should check is all your battery connections they do very often work loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just recently heard about the recall on the harness. I should have acted on it as soon as I heard.

It’s strange that Suzuki didn’t send a notice. They sent one on the ecu.
 

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The wire recall I think was for three items:
1. The rubbing against the tanks
2. excessive corrosion of the unprotected connectors behind the radiator.
3. A new ground cable

Someone correct me if that is not correct.

I would check the grounds (both ends) and generally good contact at the battery.
 

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The wire recall I think was for three items:
1. The rubbing against the tanks
2. excessive corrosion of the unprotected connectors behind the radiator.
3. A new ground cable

Someone correct me if that is not correct.

I would check the grounds (both ends) and generally good contact at the battery.
Included in #3 was re-routing the ground cable so that it attached to the engine case at a different location, supposedly less prone to corrosion, but also required the addition of a heat shielding sheath.

#2 is the real bugger... if they inspect the harness and find corrosion, they have to replace the whole harness. I think they also added some rubber flap/gizmo to the ignition keyhole.

My bike was a leftover for about 1 year and then garage kept, so I got off easy... They just added the rubber boots to the connectors behind the radiator, did a complete hack job rerouting the ground cable and I had already tucked the under tank wires away from harm.

You can enter your VIN on Suzuki's website to find out if your bike was affected. The letter I received made it sound like not all bikes were affected by all three issues... although I suspect that if your bike had one issue, then it likely had all three.
 

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I was riding down the interstate at about midnight and all the lights went out. Dash and everything. The safety light is all I had. I kept riding trying to get home and after about three harrowing miles they came back on. I have not had the harness recall done yet. Is this a symptom of that?
I'm suspicious that a battery connection failure could only affect the lights and not the rest of the systems (ECM, Spark, Fuel, etc.) that are essential for you to have kept riding.

Check up on the recall situation and battery connections for sure, but since the rest of the bike kept rolling you might need to check on some of the individual systems.

The headlight power is routed through the normally closed contacts of the start button.

The cluster illumination was more difficult to try to pin down since the functions of the speedometer wires are not labeled on the wiring diagram. I think I traced all of them to specific systems except 2. One of those last two originates from the "Fuel" fuse (#8) and is hot at all times (i.e. not switched), so it likely has nothing to do with illumination and more to do with the clock. Since the last remaining one is switched and not associated with other bike systems (i.e. not likely a status or indicator light), I would therefore guess that it is involved with cluster illumination.
 

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OK, I must be getting old and I definitely need a magnifying glass...

The power for what I think is the cluster illumination does not route through the NC contacts of the start button... It comes from the "signal" fuse which is fed by the same wire that goes to the supply side of the NC start button contacts (not the "switched side" that feeds to the headlights). Which makes sense, since I don't recall the dash lights ever going out when I press the start button... Edit: I have updated my previous post to reflect this correction.

The headlight power definitely routes through the NC contacts of the start button though...

From what I can see the +12V goes from the positive battery post through the main 30A fuse and then to the ignition switch. When it is switched to "on" it goes on to supply fuses #1 and #2 and the "supply side" of the normally closed (NC) contacts of the start button (not pushed position). From the NC start button it splits and goes to the supply side of the "Headlight Lo" fuse (#6) and subsequently on to the low beam filament. The other side of the split goes to the common leg of the hi/pass switch on left side of the handle bar, which when switched to pass or hi goes to the supply side of the "Headlight Hi" fuse (#5) and on to the high beam filament. So you will lose all headlights if there is bad contact within the ignition switch or the NC contacts of the start button.

The fused side of the signals fuse (#2) feeds both brake light switches and subsequently the brake lights, that mysterious lead to the speedometer which may or may not be its "wake-up" power and illumination, a second set of contacts within the ignition switch which then feeds the marker lights and the turn signal flasher and on to the hazard and turn signal switches and out to the signal bulbs.

All of the lights and the speedometer tie into the black with white stripe ground wire that runs back to the negative post of the battery.

A dirty start button could explain the loss of the headlights but not the loss of the turn signals and dash illumination (assuming that the wire I mentioned previous is actually responsible for dash illumination). A sketchy connection within the ignition switch would explain a loss of all the lights, but not necessarily retaining engine operation and the safety light (unless I am misinterpreting what you mean by "safety light" - are you talking about the forward marker light (the one that comes on with the key in the "P" position?). I have never taken one of these ignition switches apart, so I don't really know what is possible internally. Failing internally from "on" to "P" would indeed kill all the lights except for the marker lights, but it could only retain engine function if there are separate internal contacts not explicitly shown on the wiring diagram which remained connected for those 3 harrowing miles. Like the speedometer, the ECM only shows the wires and does not offer a description of their function, so who knows...

Of course, all this is based on the USA model wiring diagram... Not sure if your bike is a USA, Thailand, Canada and China model, or if it is an "Others" model...
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I’m in the USA but don’t know if that means I have a USA bike.

Yes I think it’s the marker light. I wasn’t sure what it’s called.

I’ve had a sketchy ignition tumbler from day one. The dealer here is a sell it and forget it type so I didn’t get any cooperation there. The key is always difficult to insert, turn and remove. The small spring loaded cover always stays open. This could be part of the problem.

I’m not sure if the tail lights were out as I didn’t stop. I only had about five miles to my exit. I definitely didn’t have instrument lights or head lights. Flipping the bright switch didn’t help.

I checked the grounds and everything is tight.

I’m reluctant to take it to this dealer. I really don’t think they are competent enough to do the job. I had the bike in for the horn not working. I called about every 3 weeks for 3 months. Then one day I get a call from the shop manager telling me if I didn’t get my bike he was going to charge me storage. I explained that I called frequently and was told by the tech I would get a call when it was ready. I asked if the horn was fixed. He said he would check. He got back on the line saying the horn was in but hadn’t been installed yet. A bit off topic but just an example of why I don’t want to go back there. The only other dealers are hours away so I’ll have to work that out.

Thank you for your extensive research. It’s been very helpful. Much better then my dealer for certain.

Oh btw. When I got my bike back for the horn issue. I pushed the button and nothing...lol
 

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The service manual calls that the forward position light... I usually call them marker or parking lights. In theory, since that light was working then your brake lights and turn signals should have also been working since they use the same source for power.

Swapping out the ignition switch isn't something I've researched in depth yet, but as I understand it you have to pull off the upper triple clamp to get at it. A new switch will have a different key, so you may want to have a locksmith re-key it or the seat latch so they are the same (assuming that you go the replacement route). The US model bikes do not have the keys electronically paired to the ECM, so you could swap it out without reprogramming anything. I don't know if special tools are required to get the switch out. I'd have to look up the procedure when I get home.

Might be a bit of a job to do and probably not cheap. For me, that warrants a little more thorough diagnostic before taking the plunge.

Has the bike gotten wet recently? Maybe there is some water in the contacts? Maybe a shot of contact cleaner would help... Maybe not...

Could also be downstream connectors or wiring and not necessarily the switch itself. The service manual wiring diagram is horrible with regard to connectors and such. Doesn't show much info about them at all.

If it happens again, see if you can safely test the other lights. The hazard switch would test both signals at the same time and a quick tap on the brakes should do it for those. Also tap the horn button. If you can get through all that, then try wiggling the key switch a bit, and maybe the start button. Isolating the extent of the affected circuits and then probing the easy potential causes would go a long way to finding the fault. But overall, stay safe.

I wonder if the lights have gone out before in the daytime and you just didn't notice because you could not see the difference in the daylight. Was the speedometer display just dark, or could you tell if it was completely off?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The cluster was dark and I was the only one on the road so I had no light to see if it was working.

It could be it happened during the day. I definitely wouldn’t notice as long as the instruments worked. I ride at night as much as I do in the day. This is my main transportation. I probably haven’t put 500 miles on my car and truck combined this season. I ride in the rain as well so the bike gets wet a lot. However, It hadn’t been raining recently when this happened.

If this happens again at night I’ll stop and check hazards, signals and brake lights. I’ve been riding and so far nothing yet.

I’m still leaning toward the ignition. It doesn’t hit the positions very easily. Maybe it wasn’t positioned right and a bump jarred it out, then another bump jarred it back.
 
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