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Discussion Starter #1
I discovered I am missing a right front brake hose clamp. I ordered and received the clamp, but need the bolt to secure it. The parts schematic I normally use doesn't identify the corresponding bolt for some reason. Does anyone have an idea on what the appropriate bolt size is?

274098
274099
 

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If I remember my Wee that bolt holds the front fender too ?

If yes there is a captive nut inside the fender, there is a 99% chance that nut is lost too, that will not be easy to find because of it's design.

It will be a 6m bolt you will need to work out your own length.
 
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Discussion Starter #5

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I would think so. See whether you can source a 6 X 30 to try in that position. If you can't source a bolt, you could perhaps tie up the fender first then remove the existing bolt to try.
 

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Tried that...too big.


Going by that parts diagram, that appears to be a bolt on the left side. So it would be the same one on the right?
Yes. The schematic shows a quantity of 2 required - 1 left, 1 right. I checked against two other parts schematics that I use and they are the same as yours.
 

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Here is thread gauge that has saved me heartache many times especially with smaller fasteners.

This one also does rivets, screw gauge (metric and inch) and a drill gauge
AEBB96F7-A02B-4BEB-BA49-CDC7E48BE52F.jpeg
 

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I have SS bolts in stock, always........I sell Bolt Kits for the ZRX1100/1200. If you need a pair, I will send you some...FREE. I have 6M x 20mm, 25mm, 30mm, 35mm, 40mm and others. They are all SS Allenheads so they will not match the existing black hexheads.........just tell people they are "bling". Chances are I might have black hexheads in your size too, just used....still free. Just let me know.
 

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I have SS bolts in stock, always........I sell Bolt Kits for the ZRX1100/1200. If you need a pair, I will send you some...FREE. I have 6M x 20mm, 25mm, 30mm, 35mm, 40mm and others. They are all SS Allenheads so they will not match the existing black hexheads.........just tell people they are "bling". Chances are I might have black hexheads in your size too, just used....still free. Just let me know.
SS bolts look nice but there are tradeoffs. SS and aluminum do not play well together. That why manufactures use plated hardware. When I use SS bolts in aluminum I smear the treads with anti seize. But this can lead to over torqueing.
 

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Have a good look I think you will need the nut too (#3)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm going to swing by a local Fastenal store today to see if I can source this locally. They've been super-helpful to me in the past when I've needed one-off fasteners. Sometimes they don't even charge me. Sure beats paying $10 in shipping on a $2 bolt (I'm looking at you, Bike Bandit 😡).

Also, I tried to remove the left bolt last night, to take it with me so I could get as exact a replacement as I could find. But the nut on the backside just spun, and I couldn't figure a way to hold it without removing the wheel. Any tips to avoid that?
 

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Best is to remove the wheel. The bolt may have been loctited to the nut or over torqued, hence the nut turning freely. There where a few complaints on the use of loctite on the tupperware nuts and bolts. A typical example is Front Fender Warning
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Fastenal comes through for me again. Even though they now have a sign on the door saying 'Wholesale Only', the counter guy was more than happy to help me out. Since there seemed to me some disagreement on the correct length of the bolt, I picked up black oxide-coated socket-head bolts in 25, 30, and 35 mm lengths. Full outlay: $1.36.

Too bad about the wheel, but it just means I'll put off replacing this bolt until I get going on my fork reconditioning & re-springing project (awaiting parts for that now). The wheel will have to come off for that anyway.
 
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