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Looking to buy DL1000 and need advice

3309 Views 13 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  GC0nn
Hello.

I’m a new member and am currently looking at buying either a 2007 DL1000 with about 25k miles for $3,500 (private seller) or a 2005 with about 13k miles for $6,000 (dealer). I’m wondering if there are particular things/issues I should be concerned about or looking for in assessing each bike.

Thank you!
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The 2007 sounds like a much better deal, as long as it has been decently maintained. I think at 25K only the first valve adjustment would/should have been done - check on that.
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The 2007 sounds like a much better deal, as long as it has been decently maintained. I think at 25K only the first valve adjustment would/should have been done - check on that.
Great and helpful suggestion! The seller says he does all his own servicing so he won’t have any records, unfortunately. Thank you!
Check the voltage at the battery with the motor running.

It is common for the magnets to come unstuck on the 1000

The moved magnets leads to lower voltage output.

In most cases it's a easy fix if the magnets have not been damaged.

You will find all you need to know on this site.

Also look up clutch chudder, common to the 1000.

If either bike has sat for a long time have a good look inside the fuel tank for rust.
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For $6,000 rather than the 2007 at the dealer, you could have this nicely farkled 2014 Gen2 DL1000:


2014-dl1000.440731

Where are you located, OP?
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Check the voltage at the battery with the motor running.

It is common for the magnets to come unstuck on the 1000

The moved magnets leads to lower voltage output.

In most cases it's a easy fix if the magnets have not been damaged.

You will find all you need to know on this site.

Also look up clutch chudder, common to the 1000.

If either bike has sat for a long time have a good look inside the fuel tank for rust.
Thank you so much for the advice!
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For $6,000 rather than the 2007 at the dealer, you could have this nicely forked 2014 Gen2 DL1000:


2014-dl1000.440731

Where are you located, OP?
That’s beautiful. I’m in Southern California — metro Los Angeles.
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If you are prepared to travel, Richlandricks bike has every accessory known to man, and is well set up.
He used the bike as a test bed for his accessories development, and then added the bits that he could not engineer himself at AdventureTech..
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I did an extensive write-up of all the known issues a while ago. You may want to look into that.

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I purchased a '08 1000 last Summer; had 39k miles on it. It had the issues of...slipped magnetics, worn clutch basket, chain misalignment. The slipped magnetics were the least expensive to fix, cost of a new left side cover gasket and JB Weld.
The clutch basket was the most expensive, but WOW what a nice difference it made.
The chain misalignment was also not that expensive and that 2mm does make a difference.

I did not even ride the bike more than 100 feet before I took it apart and fixed those three things. Along with doing a valve check, which it also needed new shims on the exhaust (as expected).
I was quite surprised at how the V-Strom 1000 rode; my other bike is a '97 Honda Interceptor, so I was used to taking the curves a bit aggressively. The V-Strom did not disappoint at all.
Over the Winter I put new Shinko 705 tires on it as I am planning on going on some rocky/gravel roads this year. Those tires sure changed the handling; takes effort now to turn-in, as expected with a 70/30 tire.

I suggest getting the '07; both will likely have all the issues.

Let us know what you get.
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I did an extensive write-up of all the known issues a while ago. You may want to look into that.

Thank you!
I'm with prior poster. Having a couple of first generation 1000s, they are brilliant bikes.

1. If you have clutch chudder, save yourself the frustration and change it out to a new basket or an updated Werks basket. Best $500 you can spend!

2. The magneto magnets seem to migrate on all these bikes rendering their charging systems ineffective. The easy (permanent) fix is attach them with JB Weld.

3. A proper valve adjustment and throttle body sync (fairly easy to do yourself, watch the YouTube video) will do wonders.

4. Upgrade the suspension to match your weight and riding style.

5. I too went with the shinko 705's front and rear. I liked them.

As for the bikes you're looking at, I would lean towards the 25K $3500 bike. But, check them both out. Overall condition is everything. Sometimes a good deal is an expensive mistake....

My guess is the dealer has a lot of room to move on their low-mileage bike. They probably bought it from the PO for $2,500.

That said, I recently bought (and sold) a low mileage 2007 super farkled DL1000 with 19K mi for $5000. So $6000 maybe a little high, but it's not crazy money....

Good luck! V-Stroms are fun bikes to own.
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I'm with prior poster. Having a couple of first generation 1000s, they are brilliant bikes.

1. If you have clutch chudder, save yourself the frustration and change it out to a new basket or an updated Werks basket. Best $500 you can spend!

2. The magneto magnets seem to migrate on all these bikes rendering their charging systems ineffective. The easy (permanent) fix is attach them with JB Weld.

3. A proper valve adjustment and throttle body sync (fairly easy to do yourself, watch the YouTube video) will do wonders.

4. Upgrade the suspension to match your weight and riding style.

5. I too went with the shinko 705's front and rear. I liked them.

As for the bikes you're looking at, I would lean towards the 25K $3500 bike. But, check them both out. Overall condition is everything. Sometimes a good deal is an expensive mistake....

My guess is the dealer has a lot of room to move on their low-mileage bike. They probably bought it from the PO for $2,500.

That said, I recently bought (and sold) a low mileage 2007 super farkled DL1000 with 19K mi for $5000. So $6000 maybe a little high, but it's not crazy money....

Good luck! V-Stroms are fun bikes to own.
Thank you! Both bikes are private sellers. The $3,000 one has an expired registration due to non-operation (for about a year) per the owner. That is an issue for me as I wouldn’t want to be dealing with a penalty when re-registering.

I’m actually looking at a 2012 DL650 with 32k tonight. The owner is asking $4,500, which seems fairly reasonable from what I’ve been able to see. The bike comes with nice looking metal panniers. Thanks again.
The 1000 has its common issues, so I would prefer the one that has the most fixes already done. Clutch basket issues cost money, suspension & braking improvements cost money, throttle sync and new TPS sensors cost money etc. Little by little you may end up spending quite a bit of money. I would read up on the common issues, figure out if and what you can fix on your own and do the math. Also trust your instinct, if something looks off, look for another option.

I'm not based in the US, but the dealer price does seem inflated to me
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