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Discussion Starter #1
If anyone has any leads on this items I would greatly appreciate it. Practicly everywhere I have looked, they are sold out. I cannot find them locally so I will have to buy online. I intend to use them as side cases on the strom.

G.I. 25MM Plastic ammo can



Thanks for looking!
 

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I handled those enough on the bradley, not exactly the size I would use for a pannier, two narrrow not enough room.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys, I know they are a bit narrow but I think they would be good enough for the value. I really would just like to put my laptop and work tools in there plus some extra clothes. I think they would suffice for that.

I may end up ordering from link you posted Sudzz. They are the only place I have found that has them in stock but they want $30 to ship a pair of them. :(
 

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Well, if you do get them or something similar, please post a pic when you get them mounted.
 

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Just get the solid projectile, or HE cases. The armor piercing had depleted uranium sabots.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, if you do get them or something similar, please post a pic when you get them mounted.
I hope to get them but there is less chance of me posting pics... haha. i'm terrible about that. Although, if they turn out good enough, I'll want to show them off.



Just get the solid projectile, or HE cases. The armor piercing had depleted uranium sabots.
are you saying to get the steel ones? What does armor piercing have to do with polyethlyne cases and uranium? I dont understand? You are talking to a civilian here. :)
 

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I think is he talking about the empty cases of the armor piercing ammo may be radioactive. I doubt you would see them for sale if they were though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think is he talking about the empty cases of the armor piercing ammo may be radioactive. I doubt you would see them for sale if they were though.
Sweet! Maybe they could make my bike glow. Like an added safety feature. haha
 

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narrow cans = better lane splitting

ABSOLUTELY waterproof, and strong enough to hold the bike off of the ground should it happen to need it (empirically tested feature).

An inch narrower than the bar end mirrors . . .

Added bonus: hyper-aggressive drivers on 93 and 95 in Boston tend to back away after they read the labels on the cans. WEAPONS INERT, indeed.

Unanticipated consequence: Labels make US and CDN Border Patrol types highly apprehensive and curious when crossing the border in either direction.

SW-MOTEC racks are robust, well made, expensive and worth it.
 

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ABSOLUTELY waterproof, and strong enough to hold the bike off of the ground should it happen to need it (empirically tested feature).

An inch narrower than the bar end mirrors . . .

Added bonus: hyper-aggressive drivers on 93 and 95 in Boston tend to back away after they read the labels on the cans. WEAPONS INERT, indeed.

Unanticipated consequence: Labels make US and CDN Border Patrol types highly apprehensive and curious when crossing the border in either direction.

SW-MOTEC racks are robust, well made, expensive and worth it.
How are the Wepons Cans hinged??? top or side:???:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ABSOLUTELY waterproof, and strong enough to hold the bike off of the ground should it happen to need it (empirically tested feature).

An inch narrower than the bar end mirrors . . .

Added bonus: hyper-aggressive drivers on 93 and 95 in Boston tend to back away after they read the labels on the cans. WEAPONS INERT, indeed.

Unanticipated consequence: Labels make US and CDN Border Patrol types highly apprehensive and curious when crossing the border in either direction.

SW-MOTEC racks are robust, well made, expensive and worth it.
Yeah, I think they would be a great solution to my needs.
Where did you get yours mcnorlander?
How did you attatch them to the sw-motec racks?


How are the Wepons Cans hinged??? top or side:???:
top and bottom from what I have seen.
 

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Coming UnHinged

These plastic beauties are hinged along the short axis, and secured with a robust clip/lever jobbie that can be operated one-handed from the seat.

As a bonus, there is a top and a bottom lid - lest you need to hose them out because your fire extinguiser went into a fury of self-destruction after impact with a bridge expansion joint, just for instance.

It's best to secure the clip for the bottom lid with a zip-tie or similar (one could retrofit a tiny and insecure padlock), so that the inattentive rider doesn't empty the can's contents onto the ground inadvertantly.

The plastic these buggers are made from is hard enough to accept threads; I fastened them to the MOTEC racks with beautiful little stainless pan-head machine screws that came for small money and at incredible speed from McMaster-Carr. The heads are to the inside of the ammo can, so there's no snagging; on the muffler side of the racks I used a 10mm stainless nut with integral star/lock washer - very cool.

You need to know about McMaster-Carr - incredible array of industrial supplies, and somehow shipped nearly overnight at regular UPS rates.

I found these ammo boxes at some surplus e-bay seller in the south; paid more to ship them than to buy them. I was following a series of links from the 'penny-tech' area in ADVrider. I apologize for not being able to locate or recall the name of the surplus dealer; the folks there were super nice, and she said they had pallets of them (this was a couple of years ago). I have since (2007) seen them in the big Surplus store in downtown Seattle.
 

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I like them because they are narrow but I am limited on parking space in my garage. As you can see, I attached them at a 45 degree angle. Thought it might help with aerodynamics and they shed rain a little better.

They open at the top and the bottom so I simply drilled through the metal latch and the case and inserted 1/4 clevis pin. On the bottom I put the pin in from the outside and clipped it on the inside. On the top latches I put the pin in from the inside, through the hole in the metal latch. As you can see I just put a small padlock through the clevis pin and now my cans are completely lockable.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
thanks for the input mcnorlander and steve.

Thanks for the pics Steve. I think those things look awesome. tougher than any other box out there. I dont think I'll go with the angled look. but I could see how it might be a little easier to get stuff out. It looks like you made your own racks.
how do you like them?
could you give us some details on how you did that?
are they welded?
I can weld but since moving no longer have access to a welder (really miss that) so I might build racks ar bite the bullet and buy some sw-motech racks.

I finally decided to get these boxes
http://www.galleria-e.com/cgi-bin/Colemans.storefront/en/product/220301
they were only $10 a piece but they charged me $30 to ship them. I really thought I could get them cheaper but could not find anyone that had them in stock and no one knew when they would get them again. Oh well. $50. not too bad...

anyway, thanks again guys.
 

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thanks for the input mcnorlander and steve.

Thanks for the pics Steve. I think those things look awesome. tougher than any other box out there. I dont think I'll go with the angled look. but I could see how it might be a little easier to get stuff out. It looks like you made your own racks.
how do you like them?
could you give us some details on how you did that?
are they welded?
Yup built them myself. I get a lot of kidding from friends and family about my home built stuff but seems like I never can find exactly what I want off the rack and end up modifying them any way.

I wanted a rack on the back that was solid enough to take a hit if I drop the bike as well as wide enough to protect my rear signal lights. I am also a fiend for bungee chords and tie down straps since you never know what type of stuff I might decide to strap on the back (still working on a design for a bicycle rack). Anyway, I tend to be a fan of perforated angle iron that you can get at any hardware store or steel supply. It's relatively cheap, bolts together like an erector set and gives me plenty of attachment points for hooks, bolts, lines, etc.

Any way, the rear support is a piece of 2 inch by 3/8 inch flat steel that was a36 inches long. I have an inexpensive steel bender I used to make the bends but a torch and hammer could work as well or you could probably rig up something. The rear support and front support pieces were the most time consuming. I measured 12" either side of center and made a 4" 90 degree bend on either side. This made a very stout support piece that would protect the rear turn signals in case of a drop.

I used the existing mounting bolts for the stock rack to attach my rack supports. Had to drill holes to allow rack mounts to fit over the "knobs" that exist where the stock rear rack mounts attach. I mounted the rear piece by removing the rack, marking where the two mounting bolts for the rear rack needed to go through and drilling holes so that I could mount it under the existing rack and use the stock mounting bolts to put the rear rack back on. I ended up drilling about 1" holes because the piece needed to fit over the knobs.

I also (obviously) had to drill mounting holes in both bends. Paint it black and I had the rear rack piece.

Front support pieces were 1 inch by 3/8 inch by 10 inches. Made a 4 inch bend and cut to length making sure that they were square to the outside with the rear rack and drilled holes to mount using the front mounting bolts for the stock rack. I acually had to use washers to space the stock rack up a little higher because the stock rack is notched and my rack support pieces wouldn't fit. Kind of hard to explain. If you're interested I can probably remove the seat and take some pictures.

Long story short, I used a 22 inch piece of perforated angle to go from the rear rack support piece to the hole below the rear foot pegs, a 13 inch piece from the rear rack support to the front rack support, and an 8 inch piece from the front rack support down to the 22 inch piece to complete the triangle. I used 3/8 bolts to attach the whole thing together.

I now have a rear rack that should give me some impact protection on the rear as well as lot of mounting and strapping options for odd things like ammo cans and the like.

However, it took me almost a full day to design and build the darn thing. My racks and ammo cans cost me less than $50 if you don't count the labor. If you managed to get suitable racks for $50 then you probably made a wise choice. I'd be happy to post pictures for anyone who is interested.

Happy trails

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #18
thanks for taking the time to do this write up!

To clarify, I didnt get racks for 50 bucks, that is what I paid to get the ammo cans, including shipping. I know, too much but it was the only place that had them in stock.

I still may make racks if I dont just bow out and buy the SW-motechs.

pics of the racks would be extremely helpful not only to myself but hopfully to other folks that like to build their own stuff.
 

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So I wonder what the odds are of getting these shipped up to Canada since the forces here don't use that ammo and thus don't have the boxes. :( They would be perfect for what I need....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So I wonder what the odds are of getting these shipped up to Canada since the forces here don't use that ammo and thus don't have the boxes. :( They would be perfect for what I need....
I looked really hard and this was the only place I could find that had them in stock. Call them and see if they can ship them to you. I haven't recieved mine yet but they say that they do have them in stock. We'll see...

Colman's Surplus
360 Klinger Road
Millersburg, PA 17061
1-888-478-7758
 
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