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Discussion Starter #1
I've recently developed a locked rear brake. Please read and understand the following so we don't go posting the obvious.

I started with lever adjustment. The pedal height was correct and the pivot was not seized.

Next I moved on to the caliper, which was not seized either. The slide pins were well lubricated and the piston pushed back in with ease.

After that, I tried bleeding the rear line and nothing would come from the bleeder. So no fluid is being moved past the ABS unit.

I then removed the master cylinder and checked the ports to find them clear. I then reinstalled it and still no luck. I cracked the banjo open and fluid gushed out when i depressed the brake lever. So this means the master cylinder is ok.

The brake fluid was clear and serviced on time.

The bike only has 18k miles on it.

From my research, it seems that the rear port on the abs unit is blocked. The only test I haven't done is crack the line open before the abs unit and after the master cylinder banjo. I could not imagine a hose to be clogged or collapsed more than the abs unit to be blocked.

I'm hoping someone else out there has had the same problem and can shed some light. Maybe save me from the worst here. I don't want to delete the ABS or replace it. Lose lose situation for me.

Thanks
 

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Yes I remember there were some threads about ABS module problems. Do a google search on stromtrooper.

I think one possible cure is to exercise the ABS multiple times. Like running the bike over wet grass or gravel and have the ABS unit activate many times. Make sure you have enough speed so the ABS activates and the bike remains stable while stabbing the brakes. Hopefully that may clear up the stuck solenoid.

If in luck do a fluid change afterwards. My procedure is:
1. Do normal fluid change front and rear.
2. Go out and exercise the ABS many times to flush old fluid out of the unit.
3. Repeat step 1.
 

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2012 650’s had some ABS pump issues, only ones I’m aware of.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info guys. I cracked the both lines on the rear portion of the abs. the input line was free flowing, the output was not. So I guess this narrows it down.... :(

Does the front abs activating also cycle the rear? I'll go ahead and give it a shot.
 

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Sounds like you're on the right track. I would try and pump some fluid back up through the rear ABS output port. Maybe you can knock whatever is jamming the valve out.
Maybe give the assembly a few taps with a mallet or screwdriver handle. Something hard. Something that'll send some shocks through the unit without risking dents or cracks.
 

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Also, have you tried pushing the piston back into the caliber? Use a c-clamp if needed. Will fluid flow in reverse? This is assuming there is room for the piston to retract.
 

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Also, have you tried pushing the piston back into the caliber? Use a c-clamp if needed. Will fluid flow in reverse? This is assuming there is room for the piston to retract.
Good idea. Have the reservoir open and keep an eye on the fluid level when you do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also, have you tried pushing the piston back into the caliber? Use a c-clamp if needed. Will fluid flow in reverse? This is assuming there is room for the piston to retract.
yep. I pushed the piston back in no issue.

Thanks all for your input. when i get the chance to cycle the abs motor ill let you all know the results. unfortunately, its been rainy here.
 

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Also, have you tried pushing the piston back into the caliber? Use a c-clamp if needed. Will fluid flow in reverse? This is assuming there is room for the piston to retract.
yep. I pushed the piston back in no issue.

Thanks all for your input. when i get the chance to cycle the abs motor ill let you all know the results. unfortunately, its been rainy here.
Does this mean the brake is working again? If so, and if it was me, I'd take the time to flush out the brake line, if possible in reverse direction in case there's any type of debris that was blocking the input to that abs motor.
 

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I think there are two chambers in the ABS unit, one for front one for rear, so I think you will need to activate the rear multiple times. This can be a symptom of proper threshold braking, which means the rider never activates the the ABS.....congratulations? >:)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No it is not fixed. I ran the bike through some grass and locked the front brake. The motor functioned fine and did its job. However, the rear brake still doesn't work. It seems like the fluid ejected from the rear reservoir from the abs pump working. It could be because there is now air in the lines. I'm going to purchase a vacuum bleeder today and see if I can't pull fluid to the rear bleeder valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think there are two chambers in the ABS unit, one for front one for rear, so I think you will need to activate the rear multiple times. This can be a symptom of proper threshold braking, which means the rider never activates the the ABS.....congratulations? >:)
lol no. In fact my rear abs is pretty active. Mostly from braking and hitting a small bump like when i come into a parking lot or my driveway.
 

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It would be interesting to take the individual abs valves apart and look for debris. What's the history on changing the brake fluid? Every 2 years with dot 4?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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