[arooni]

lso I noticed I hadn't tightened down the bolts holding on my brake lever and one bolt had come off! And the other was hand tightened! I had swapped my handlebars recently and then recently have installed hand guards so I had to loosen the brake lever. Something more to add to my pre-ride checklist!

Anyways, should loc-tite be used on these bolts (that attach the levers to the handlebars)?

Best,
David

PS: Started a a thread on stromtrooper to discuss my journeys from Seattle => South america (until I get my website set up):

 

[PeteW]

Shouldn't be needed. They also don't need to be particularly tight, and on dirt bikes I always used to leave them loose so a good thump would let them spin - to minimize lever damage.

Swapping the bolts for stainless is worthwhile however, they do rust easily.

If you do use lock-tite - use a low strength one.

Pete

 

[mark444]

Swapping the bolts for stainless is worthwhile however, they do rust easily.
Pete

I have plenty of SS Allenhead Socket Screws for this purpose......PM me if you want a set, cheap. :mrgreen:
mark444

 

[greywolf]

The nuts tighten against the shoulders of the bolts. There is very little force working to loosen them. You can't use ordinary bolts the shouldered ones. The levers pivot on the shouldered areas.

 

[mark444]

Thanks for the clarification GreyWolf, I didn't read the original post close enough..........I can supply Bolt #14, not #10..........and on the throttle side also (2 bolts there, maybe?).

 

[GT_Hawk]

I agree loc-tite is not needed in things liek this

BUT I like overkill. Every bolt I take off gets blue loc-tite back in place. Considering I just did the trans labadour which is 1000km dirt road with lots of wash boards, I would think a little blue loc-tite when putting a bolt back in is just added insurance that something don't vibrate off.

 

[greywolf]

Loctite usually wont hurt if the area is all metal. Don't use any around plastic parts though. They basically disintegrate.

 

[JPK]

The #4 and #11 nuts in the diagram above should be a prevailing torque nuts like this:

See the two little tabs at the end of the threads? They work similarly to a nylock nut, but without the nylon insert. These don't need loc-tite -- the tabs prevent loosening. If the nut on there isn't like this, I'd replace it with one of these (or a nylock nut) instead of using loc-tite.

 

[Sprocket]

I think he's talking about #9 in this fiche:

If so, I'd be comfortable using Loctite on them. If they're torqued properly (7 lb-ft) they'll probably stay put, though.

Great to hear that you're on your way, David! Keep us posted!