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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #1
Took a while to figure out what I even had (given that it has both Givi and Kappa marks on it!), but after some research I determined that my top case is a Kappa K48 with Suzuki branding. Like this:


Except mine has a "Suzuki Vstrom" badge where you see the silver "Kappa" badge in the photo.

Is there an easy way to add a brake light kit to the red reflector in the lid?

It looks as if there is some space in there, behind the reflector. Of course, I'd have to figure out how to route the wires.

The red reflector doesn't seem to be all that reflective. Been thinking of adding some reflective tape to the back of the case. It's always on the bike - functions as my "trunk."

Been pondering other auxiliary brake/supplemental turn signal lights as well. I have an aftermarket accessory fuse box under the seat (thanks to a previous owner). I'm pretty comfortable with soldering & running wires, so powering some additional lights shouldn't be too cumbersome.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #3
Yup, I was looking at their SMT Light Bar with Smart Brake tech. It seems pretty neat.

I just have to figure out where I'd mount that. With creative use of fasteners/brackets/etc. I could probably find a place.
 

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Been pondering other auxiliary brake/supplemental turn signal lights as well. I have an aftermarket accessory fuse box under the seat (thanks to a previous owner). I'm pretty comfortable with soldering & running wires, so powering some additional lights shouldn't be too cumbersome.
Try searching eBay for "Universal flexible 32 LED motorcycle light strip tail brake stop/turn signlight"

These are bright, cheap, easy to mount, last a long time. I have one mounted vertical on the back of each pannier and a pair on the top case. I wired the 'left' and 'right' leads together on the side cases to make a single, bigger turn signal each side.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Wow, yeah that's cheap all right. First one I ran across was $4.95 with free shipping! Ordered two.

I could just stick the LED bar to the bottom of the metal shelf-type thing that my top case sits on & attaches to. A strip of 3M automotive trim adhesive would probably do the trick.
 

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Wow, yeah that's cheap all right. First one I ran across was $4.95 with free shipping!

I could just stick the LED bar to the bottom of the metal shelf-type thing that my top case sits on & attaches to. A strip of 3M automotive trim adhesive would probably do the trick.
I hate to 'ruin it' for you, but you won't even get to use your double sided tape. They come with 3M brand VHB tape already on the back. #greatvalue

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #7
Excellent. At $5 each I wouldn't have minded supplying the tape myself, but that's even better!

Now I just need to forget I ordered them, and in a few weeks I'll get a nice surprise in the mail. :)
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #8
Got the LED light bars today.

Wiring them in shouldn't be too tough. Since a small LED array like this draws hardly any current, I should be able to connect the bars in parallel with the existing lights, yes?
 

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Got the LED light bars today.

Wiring them in shouldn't be too tough. Since a small LED array like this draws hardly any current, I should be able to connect the bars in parallel with the existing lights, yes?
Exactly. Just connect in parallel.


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #10
OK, but I have no idea how to go about this.

I don't want to mess up the stock brake light & turn signal wiring. I can see where it goes to the lights in the tail of the bike, but I have no idea how to connect the lightbar. Also there isn't much room in there to work.

There isn't enough wire included with the LED bar to reach all the way to the main electrical spaghetti mess near the battery. I could splice on extensions, but is there a simpler way to do this?
 

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Use positaps (available even on Amazon). Don't peel the stock wiring. The positaps have a needle sharp pin that penetrates the stock wiring and seals out dirt.

For the 2014 - 2016 DL1000 the taillight wires are color coded as follows:

Black with White stripe (B/W) is ground wire.
Brown (Br) is the running lights wire, 12v on when the switch is on.
Light Green (Lg) is the right turn signal wire.
Black (B) (no strip) is the left turn signal wire.
White with Black stripe (W/B) is the brake light wire.

Look at the LED wiring diagram and identify which wire performs which function (print the description for easy reference). Connect each one to the correct color wire going to the tail light using the positaps. Follow the positaps installation instructions and they are near enough to bomb proof.

There isn't much room, but you don't need much. Positaps do not require tools for installation, just your hands.


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, there's no way I can get things hooked up inside the tail fairing. There just isn't enough room, or I don't have small enough hands/arms, take your pick. Also, there's pretty much zero slack on any of the taillight wiring.

I hate to do it, but I don't see any choice other than to cut open the sheath covering the tail light bundle farther forward, & do the tapping there.

I was unable to find anyone selling Posi-Taps in town. At least amongst stores open today. NAPA used to carry Posi-Taps, but no longer does. Guess I'll wait until Monday, when some real electronics supply stores are open.

The included wiring for the LED bars is tiny & very frustrating to work with. The leads aren't even 22 AWG. They must be 24 AWG or smaller. I butt-spliced (using a crimp & heat-shrink connector) some spare 18 AWG wire I had to each of the leads. Now the leads are at least large enough wire to handle more easily. More importantly, my wire stripper can't do 24 AWG or smaller, but it can do 18 AWG, so I can make fresh leads if/when I screw up :)

I bought two of the LED bars. I'm going to try connecting the leads from both with one Posi-Tap per function, so the wiring mess is a little less awful.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #14
Nope, no one sells Posi-Taps at retail, at least not in this town. Tried 4 different electrical supply or electronics supply stores.

I had to order a set of Posi-Taps off Amazon. At almost $2 each they seem a bit overpriced. But, it's either use Posi-Taps, or butcher the factory wiring to splice in extensions (which means buying even more supplies...). There is almost zero slack in the tail light wiring bundle, so there is just no room for those big fat "quick splice" connectors you can easily find at hardware stores. Posi-Taps it is.

Very frustrating. I wanted to get the LED bars installed before my ride to Phoenix on Monday, but the Posi-Taps won't get here until almost the end of next week.
 

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Try searching eBay for "Universal flexible 32 LED motorcycle light strip tail brake stop/turn signlight"

These are bright, cheap, easy to mount, last a long time. I have one mounted vertical on the back of each pannier and a pair on the top case. I wired the 'left' and 'right' leads together on the side cases to make a single, bigger turn signal each side.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
I just installed the LED brake light strip below my top case (above the brake light) and they are BRIGHT and come on faster then the weak DL650a brake light. Took ten minutes to wire, soldier in, and stick on. Has to be the best brake light upgrade anyone can do for under $15 bucks. Bought mine on Amazon. I'd slap on 20 of them if it wouldn't be so offensive. I may stick a strip on each side of my panniers but they already have .5" round red LED running lights on the top back corners so good enough. Seriously, the adhesive LED light brake lights are the best farkle anyone can do for safety because the weak single brake light on the 2012-2016 is limp wristed at best.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #16
That turned out reasonably well.


I bought 2 of the 32-LED bars, assuming that for about $5 and "only" 32 LEDs each, they couldn't be all that bright. Some of the more expensive LED light bars have as many as 81 LEDs in their arrays. Granted there are various kinds of LEDs so a pure quantity comparison doesn't tell the whole story, but at this price point, I'm happy with the increase in lighting.

I spent another $30 for electrical connectors & a new wire stripper. Again, not absolutely necessary. I wanted to set the bars up for quick disconnect, and really needed a new wire stripping/crimping tool.

I didn't want to wait for the Posi-Taps to arrive, so I made things much harder than necessary by chopping the factory tail light wires (GASP!) and soldering in extra sections of 16 gauge wire (yeah, overkill, but it's what I had on hand). All the connections are heatshrink-wrapped so you can't see my so-so soldering.

Each LED bar is connected to the newly-extended wiring harness by either tab or bullet type quick disconnects. Only rarely do I remove my top case, but I didn't want to have to cut wires in the event of wanting to go "bare." Likewise, if one of the bars malfunctions or dies, I won't need to cut wires to disconnect it or swap it out.

In other words, the wiring is vastly over-engineered. I had fun doing it though.

These do look pretty bright in my garage (photo is just running lights, so not full red brightness).
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #17
Original image link is dead and I can't edit the post, so here's what the case looks like:

I'm re-opening this discussion because I decided to finally finish the project.

The "proper" factory lighting kit is basically impossible to get my hands on, at least not without great delay & unnecessary expense. So I'm going to roll my own.

I ordered the following bits & pieces to help complete the project:

-roll of 5630 SMD LED strip, red. 5 meter (~16 foot) roll.

-snap-on power connectors for the LED strip.

other notes:

-I will be using an inline ATM mini fuse holder to protect the circuit. 1 A fuse should be plenty. SMD strip doesn't draw a lot of current.

-Tapping power from the "Brake" line. I want the red lens on the case to light up all at once when I apply brakes. May re-wire later so that it also acts as a tail light/running light, but keeping it simple for now.

-if the "stop light" works as I'm hoping, may use some more SMD strip to light interior of case.

LED strip is supposed to get delivered today. Further updates here as events warrant!
 

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Cool...in-progress pics and a wiring diagram would be awesome! I've considered doing something like this as well.
 
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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
First order of business will be to hook up some of the LED strip to bike power to ensure it actually works. And doesn't catch on fire or anything.

This is the LED strip I'm using:

5630 SMD LED strip

The entire roll is supposed to draw 37.5 W. 300 LEDs total, cuttable into 3-LED segments, so each segment should burn 0.375 W. At 14.5 V that's 26 mA per segment. Really miniscule current draw.

I did some reading before ordering anything. Supposedly 5630 LED strip should give me the most brightness, which is what I'm after.

I can only physically fit a few of the 3-LED segments inside the housing built into the red lens. Probably 3-4 segments, top

Not sure exactly how I'm going to run wires yet. Some of that will have to be worked out on the fly.

These are the connectors I'll use for the strips:

10mm clip-on LED strip power connectors

Supposed to just snap on to the end of an LED strip to provide power. I'll wrap 'em in something (3M Super 33+ tape or self-amalgamating silicone like Xtreme Tape) to make sure the connection stays tight & is weather-sealed.

The leads are only 22 AWG, which is kind of a pain in the butt as such small wires are fiddly to work with. I'll splice on decently large leads (probably 18 AWG at least) first thing.

I have an existing setup of Posi-Taps from which I can draw power.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #20
Got the LED strip, but too late yesterday to do anything with it.

Both ends of the roll were pre-wired with leads. Also included in the box was a terminal thingy so you can convert the bare leads to a barrel-style, coax 12 V connector. Much like our heated gear. I probably won't use it though. On vehicle electrical projects, I like to use automotive-type, weatherproof, quick-connect/disconnect plugs.

A few thoughts on wire:

If you're going to be working with LED lighting, it might make sense to buy some 18 AWG wire.

My existing project wire is top-quality stuff (Ancor marine-grade), but it's 16 AWG. That's good for many applications, such as supplying a 12V accessory socket. However, the sheer size isn't needed for low-current cases like LEDs, and can get in the way.

18 AWG is a better size. It's a nice mix of current-carrying capacity, physical durability, & ease of handling. Stripping, crimping, and soldering gets to be a gigantic PITA if you go much smaller.

Yes, you can splice, crimp, or solder (lineman-style if you like) 22 AWG to 16 AWG, but it ends up being a bit fragile-looking and -feeling. I've had to make one such splice already. The snap-on power couplings I mentioned are pre-wired with 22 AWG leads.

Using smaller-than-16 AWG wire opens up more options for butt splice connectors, ring terminals, etc. and reduces bulk in general.
 
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