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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to be installing a Centech AP-2 fuse box with a few goodies here shortly. I am using Eastern Beavers AP-2 harness. Here's what will be attached:

(2) Powerlet outlets
Stebel horn
Battery monitoring LED
Battery charger
Symtec heated grips

Eventually there will be more including GPS, maybe some aux lighting & other heated gear.

Does anyone have a picture of their fusebox setup? I'd like to see how people routed their wires and mounted the box. Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I'm thinking I'll probably mount it in the under seat tray. I am going to try and find a small, clear plastic tackle box that is a little bit bigger than the unit itself to mount it in. This should provide weather and dirt resistance.
 

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I'm thinking about a similar installation and was thinking of mounting the AP-2 vertically on the front side of the underseat tray. It'll fit, but I will have to run all the grounds to the battery. Whatever you choose to do, I'd love to hear the details. I'm placing my eastern beaver order in the next couple of weeks.
 

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I'm thinking about a similar installation and was thinking of mounting the AP-2 vertically on the front side of the underseat tray. It'll fit, but I will have to run all the grounds to the battery. Whatever you choose to do, I'd love to hear the details. I'm placing my eastern beaver order in the next couple of weeks.
Jim no longer has the AP2's (still has AP1's). He has on his site that he's working on his own fusebox. I'm waiting for that one! His stuff is top-notch!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Jim no longer has the AP2's (still has AP1's). He has on his site that he's working on his own fusebox. I'm waiting for that one! His stuff is top-notch!
Jim told me that his fusebox is about 2 months away. It sounds like a nice unit, a little smaller and supposedly cheaper than the Centech using ATM fuses. Unfortunately I need an electrical solution now or I would wait.
 

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Centec installation

I have a Centec fusebox mounted in front of the underseat storage box. It fits right in there. I should attach it with screws, but it's stayed in place all year, just wedged in there. I tried to post of photo, but couldn't get the file size small enough.
 

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Someone say fusebox?



Someone say 2 outlets and an LED monitor? What about a custom dash too?





One for the bag, the other for the GPS


I have factroy heated grips so they are not tied in here. I did the custom install myself after allot of research. I came up with the under tank bracket because i hate to give up any storage space, not to mention shit rattling around on all those damn wires. And Yes, eastern beaver helped themselves to my web pics, and no the wire is no where near getting chaffed, he picked a poor angle for his site pic.
For a full write up and all my web links to the supply venders and wiring diagrams, check here:
http://11109.rapidforum.com/topic=110272616860

Oh and two years later....yes..its water proof where its at.


AND REMEMBER Nothings possible till its done!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Tollster, I've seen your mounting location before. I think you either have a 650 or a later version of VStrom than I do because my "under the fuel tank bracket" doesn't look like yours. On my bike (2002 Vee) there is no metal where you've installed your AP-1. Mine only has the U shaped part, no flat portion to mount anything on :bom_disappointed:

I think I'm going to mount the battery monitor LED in the dashboard itself. There appears to be the perfect amount of space between two lights in the display for it. It'll look stock. I swear I saw a picture of this somewhere on here that someone did but I can't find it now.
 

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Just want to clarify that I still make my AP-2 relay kit, I just don't sell the AP-2 anymore.

I've got a bunch of fusebox installs here:
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/AP-1/Install/install.html

including some from people on this list. Yes Tollster's too! I still don't know why your rear tank bracket looks like that. Someone told me is was custom but it doesn't look it.

Anyway my opinion is a fuse panel should have lots of extra space around it to make it easy to wire, but if you do it right you'll likely never have to replace a fuse. At least that is the whole idea with my products.

So put it in the underseat tray where it's protected and there's lots of space for it.
 

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I know that no ones bracket looks like that, I went to Lowes and got a thin sheet of steel for 5.00 dollars or so, I then fabricated the shelf with a hacksaw and dremal tool and had it welded on the the tank bracket. Being a Harley owner and I know many of you hate us, we often have to think outside the box. See when we order all those custom parts to make our harleys run like they should have when we purchased them, what happens is say I order an after markey headlight assembly from Joes custom headlights, then a year later I break the bank again and order passing lamps with a billet light bar from Bobs.
Sure I tell them the year and model of my Harley, but when I get it, it dosn't fit Joes headlight support bracket.
So out with the dremal, polish and so on the get that custom fit. I am sure it would (Light bar) have fit the stocker, but now the parts are on top of other custom parts. This goes on and on.
I must say though, if you want to learn how to wrench and do custom installs and finish work, buy a harley.
Now with that little background, you can see where my thinking came into play on the tank support bracket. I had some space and some OMC boat green paint, why not use it!
This is one sector of the Japanese bikes I enjoy, because you rarely see those one off installs such as this.
Just think outside the box, fall back on your experience and you will get it. There is space there' you just have to look for it and use whats available. The exception is 2007 and up as this spaced was used by the factory for emisions or somthing like that, but prior models have the room. Just take your time and do it right, don't take shortcuts as tempting as it may be and it will be very reliable, and you'll have folks saying:
"My bracket doesn't look anything like that"
Thanks,
Toll

The fuses are accessable from the seat side of the bracket, but you need to use needle nose to lift them and pull them out, upon reinstall, you use needle nose to get the prongs lined up, then push with your index to seat it, you could also use your thumb and index on the reinstall in a pinch, but I have yet to blow a fuse:)
When adding farkeles to the AP-1, you must remove the fuse block cover, which is held on by 2 screws caddy corner to one another, then set screws hold in the wire leads to the power supply bars. To facilate cover removal, I drilled a 3/8" hole in the top of the tank bracket, just larged enough to get a pillips in, this hole is right above the corner screw on the AP-1.
I want to again thank Harley for this lesson, learned in removing the rear rocker box covers and using the acces hole in the frame backbone for hex screw removal. Yes I have lost a couple of those hex screws to the frame demon more than once;)
If there was any general tips I could give you, it would be to solder all joints, particularly if you use switch power via liscense lamp lead. Also for the farkeles, try to keep your wires to a minimum, another reason I went more towards the front of the bike, since all my switches will be accessable from the cockpit, so less wires, less mess, less weight, just power from the battery to the fuse block.
I strongly suggest the use of molex connectors, I found a place where they have weather proof plugs in every design for very cheap prices, its actually an agiriculture supply, so it'll more than likely meet our demands. I ran my main lead which is tied into 2 or 3 fuses up to the large plug that runs to the fairing. This is because I though my marine switch panel would be used on the plastic horse collar surrounding the upper fairing. Then I thought, what if I have to remove the fairing and have all those wires everywhere, plugs here and plugs..back there, hence the flat 4 wire water proof molex plug, which fits inside the factory rubber boot where that fairing plug is located. This way when I disconnect the dash lighting and instrumentation, I just unplug the farkles here too, quick and easy.
This is the male end:

Anyway, the store is Agri-tronix, this is their terminal page http://www.atcindus.com/categories.php?cat=17 they have a wide varity of water proof plugs for your imagination.
That link I gave you has all the vendor links, http://11109.rapidforum.com/topic=110272616860 including the LED monitor, the dash, the sockets, and so on. Oh Matty, I also thought of the tackle box mount, I was goona route the wires through an aphenol connector that ran through the box wall, but after trying to find the right size box then adding wires to it, I didn't have much luck. I purchase about 5 different fly boxes, all where weatherproof. It just ahd to be considerably bigger than the fuse box, so I didn't pursue it any longer and went this route instead.
Many folks like the blue sea for quick installs, I have not heard anything bad about them, they just didn't fit into my plans, but may be worth consideration.
This is the switch panel I was gonna put in, but have not had the need yet. I was gonna put it on the horse collar or the plastic dash surround. The horse collar is kind of flimsy for this application, but I thought if one could double up the plastic base, it would strengthen it some, say like another piece of plastic glue to the bottom of the dash, from an old trashcan lid perhaps?

They also have a 4 switch design and you can get different labels...Bilge Pump?

PM me if I can help
Toll
 

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Although I don't have any pictures right now I used Tollsters idea although mines not quite so elegant. I simply went to the parts store and bought a sheet of aluminum plate and cut it down to size. I sandwiched it between the tank bracket and the frame then mounted the fuse box with machine screws.

On my first attempt I found that the seat tabs hit the fusebox when trying to put the seat back on. I just made the aluminum plate bigger so the fusebox mounted further under the tank. I use the underseat storage for too much other stuff to give up that space and this location seemed ideal.

Thanks for the idea Tollster!
 

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You are very welcome, I am happy you found some use in my threads. I don't hear enough of it! It was also the primary reason to use this area, as i too use the under seat storage too much. I also am not a big fan of wires in my way.
Toll
 
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Here's a couple pictures of mine...installed in the under seat tray...using all Eastern Beaver wiring.

Heated Grips
GPS
Datal Digital Voltmeter
Additional Powerlet Plug for Heated Gear
Room for Expansion.



Everything in it's own "dedicated" wiring harness. Note Grey Wires.




A little Liquid Electrical Tape to protect the bottom of the AP-2 Fuse Panel from anything coming in contact with the exposed bottom circuitry.


BTD.
 
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