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I can't say enough good about the lights from ADVMonster.com. I've had the F11's in amber on my ReStrom for 5 years and 40000 miles. Awesome lights, still going strong. 10 watts per light.
This year I put their 57FA set on my DR650. Absolutely fantastic lights as well, with an amber light with a low cutoff switchable on low beam and going to a brighter white high beam with the bikes high beam activated. However, I think that at 40/52 watts per pair, they exceed the OP's power usage target.
 

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I've been using several of the sub $30 USD Amazon 3" pods with great success. I bought a bike that had Rigid lights and swapped them over to a bike I new I was keeping. After I did the swap I put both bikes side by side and turned on the aux lights. It turned out to be a waste of time. The Amazon lights were brighter and had coverage.

Lately I've been really liking the 3" side shooters. Not only forward light but they also cast light to the sides of the road to light up the eyes of creatures I'm trying to avoid.

Honestly you can spend a lot of money on LED's but I'm not sure they perform any better.
 

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I want to be more visible, and have even more lumens for my visibility on those dark road drives.
First things first: don't believe the specs provided or claims made by general LED light vendors, excepting a very small number of very expensive, highly regarded vendors. Stated light output and power draw are invariably far higher than actual, and beam patterns are all over the map.

To get all three requirements, you really need 2 sets of lights. The first two requirements are not compatible with the third.

For conspicuity, nearly any light will work fine.

For low-beam supplemental light, your best bet is a light with a proper beam cut-off. Unfortunately, these are few and far between...and the few tend to be expensive. The few inexpensive ones I've seen aren't very bright. Seems at the moment most opt for lights without cutoff, and employ a dimmer* to avoid blinding oncoming traffic. The dimmer, of course, reduces the amount of supplemental light. So, yeah...compromise. Oh, and note not all LED lights will work with a dimmer.

I have some cheap LED lights from Amazon, not worth digging up which specific ones. But I will specify the dimmer I used: I splurged on the Skene IQ275 since I like the ability to easily adjust from 10% - 100% in intensity (in 10% increments) with a few simple flicks of the thumb on the high beam switch.

For high-beam supplemental light, you want a fairly tight beam pattern. Again, cutoff is ideal, but rare and expensive. A really good tight beam pattern generally requires a large-ish, well designed reflector. Your best bet for a tight beam is a single, bright LED housed relatively deep inside a large reflector. There are fairly inexpensive options, but they're often a gamble (see first things first above).

My plan for high-beam supplemental light:

A year ago, based on a then two year old post in a long-running ADVRider thread, I picked up a set of 4" LED lights on eBay. Note the lens diameter is 4", full diameter is closer to 4.75". They're BIG. And I've yet to mount them, unfortunately. But I think they're going to work very well for high-beam supplemental light, based on my tinkering in the garage and yard. When I have the bike torn down for valve checks this fall / winter, I'll finally get around to the install.

* Don't get too hung up on the Denali DataDimmer (or Skene IQ275, for that matter, though I like and recommend it). They're both fine products, but there are lots of inexpensive dimmer options. While most are a single function dimmer, without full-intensity override, a cheap relay and a bit of wire will provide the option for full-intensity override when you hit your highbeams.
 

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I also recommend Clearwater. I use the Ericas to great effect. I got them on sale and at only $100 more than Denali but far more flexible, they are the choice of champions. Made in USA, most excellent service etc etc. Never have to worry, very long track record of reliability etc. Light up the road like daytime! Besides brightness, it is more important to introduce a major change to oncoming traffic. The only tool at our disposal is light. Since the C/W's go to full bright at the touch of high beam sw.... this is like throwing a brick through the windshield... hey cager wake up. THE CLEARWATER ERICAS WORK BEYOND GOOD, BEYOND FANTASTIC.... THEY ARE AT THE ZENITH OF ATTENTION GETTING WHEN IT COMES TO ALERTING THE ONCOMING VEHICULAR

CONVEYANCES.
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BTW, I have used numerous less expensive options. Even expensive PIAA's. Returned the PIaas to Amazon. The others I gave away. The couple hundred dollars extra ( at the most) to own the Clearwaters, are far less than a ambulance ride or even 10 minutes in the hospital.
 

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After buying cheapies and not ever being satisfied with either the light output, life, pattern, or the housing and the rust and bent brackets that come with owning them....
I finally bought Clearwater Darlas for the RT. I will never own anything but something like these again. The RT is canbus, literally I connected the harness to the battery, then unplugged the proper connector under the seat and plugged back in the provided male/female connectors per Clearwater. That is ALL of the electrical connections. I can dim them going down the road, they can come to 100% when I blow the horn, they run 40% ( my setting ) in daylight and at night until I hit the high beams then they are 100%. There is more but I forget all of it. They have a similar control package for other bikes that might take more connections. I run the yellow covers in daylight. There is high quality, then there are the Clearwater lights on a bar way above that.
Yes they cost a lot. Some things are worth the cost.
 

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Here's the most recent page from ADV this guy's been selling them for many years.

And here's the front page of his company website: LED Lights - ADVmonster

I've had a pair for years they're perfectly fine by me, one spot, one flood, mounted low.
 

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I got some of these:
Mounted them on SW-Motech brackets.
The lights are on all the time, but on the lowest dim setting so no glare but extra visibility. Then when I hit high-beam they go full power (I also have a switch in-between so I can stop them going full power with high-beam).
So far work well for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Just when I thought I was done with big farkle purchases... I start this thread and now I'm hooked on getting lights done right.

Thanks all!
 

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Just when I thought I was done with big farkle purchases... I start this thread and now I'm hooked on getting lights done right.

Thanks all!
If you want to go the Clearwater route, ask them if they have any refurbs. Saved $100 on mine. I regret buying the cheap Thumper Jockeys for my WR250R thinking I was getting the same thing for less.
 
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Baja Design Squadron Sports Driving beam. It's a combo beam pattern of their wide cornering and spot in one lens. The lights are about 3 inches square. The sports put out around 3500 lumens per lamp at 27 watts. They also have a Pro version that puts out 5000 lumens at 45 watts at twice the cost. The sports are around 200.00 per pair, the Pros over 400.00 per pair. The build quality is better than the Denali line. This is all I use on any of my bikes. They are made and ship out of California. In the one image of the beam pattern, the tree line between the homes is 350 meters from the bike. They illuminate farther than that.
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My $20 cheapie 10w floods are still going strong after 5 years on my cheapie dl650. Two big secrets...add electronic thermal past to the back of the led boards to help keep them cool. Point them down enough not to blind drivers. With the wide flood I can better spot dear eyes blinking, see corners, and road signs. I avoid riding at night for the most part.
 

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El cheapos, <$30, over 3 years and almost 40K on them:



 

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