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Discussion Starter #1
I have been using inexpensive and poorly built 10W LED lights for the past few years. I have now burned out 4, with the last two lasting about 10 minutes once turned on (faulty LED circuits).

So I'm looking for a 10w (most important, low draw... I need watts for my heated gear) spot, ultra-reliable (second most important), and small/light (third requirement).

I'm happy to spend the money if they last. I've come up with a short list:

1. Denali D2
2. Denali DM
3. Rigid Ignite
4. AdventureTech Lights which look like Denali D2s... ?

Fire away.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've been running these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDJK1AJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
no longer available, cheepo $20 10W led's. 7 months, 5000 miles,still working. I did silicone the front lens gasket and rear area where wire enters housing because I felt original seals were inadequate
Hope they last longer than yours, time will only tell
Those are exactly the lights I've been using!

You're definitely on the right track sealing them. I suspect I would have had better luck if I had... one of them got water inside.

The two most recent ones just shorted out before I could take them for a drive.
 

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The cheap Amazon stuff seems to be hit or miss with no way to know until they break. I have Denali D4's on my VStrom and Baja Squadron's and Diode Dynamics SS3s on my truck. All 3 of those are really well built, but they're heavy and a bit larger (and draw more power) than the ones you listed. I believe all 3 of those brands make smaller lights, and I would expect the build quality to remain high.
 

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Make sure you can use them at all times. I bought some cheap LED for my Wr 250R and they put out a lot of Glare, so that oncoming cars would be blinded and hence they are not useable in traffic at night.. On my Vstrom I love my Clearwater Darlas because they have a dimmer on the handlebars and go full bright when I hit the horn or high beams. They cost a small fortune and I know there are cheaper solutions with good quality.

Depending on time of day and where the Sun is I dial them up or down.I Also have their Amber covers which have a bit of Lime Green in them. No one is not going to notice me coming. I almost took out a bike a couple of falls ago while turning left in my car because my brain did not register that bike with one light going through the intersection at dusk till the last minute. So grateful I did not hurt anyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Make sure you can use them at all times. I bought some cheap LED for my Wr 250R and they put out a lot of Glare, so that oncoming cars would be blinded and hence they are not useable in traffic at night.. On my Vstrom I love my Clearwater Darlas because they have a dimmer on the handlebars and go full bright when I hit the horn or high beams. They cost a small fortune and I know there are cheaper solutions with good quality.

Depending on time of day and where the Sun is I dial them up or down.I Also have their Amber covers which have a bit of Lime Green in them. No one is not going to notice me coming. I almost took out a bike a couple of falls ago while turning left in my car because my brain did not register that bike with one light going through the intersection at dusk till the last minute. So grateful I did not hurt anyone.
This is why I started this thread! The idea that I could have lights on a dimmer, flash bright automagically in scenarios where it makes 100% sense, and dial them in for the time of day, are features I haven't even thought of.

I went as far as having a switch on my handlebars... and kept them at 10w spots so I could run them 24 hours a day. But those lights are a whole new world.
 

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Denali offers a module that allows them to shine at 50% or 100% brightness, with the high beam switch. I have it and recommend it. The D4s are very bright at 100%
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Denali offers a module that allows them to shine at 50% or 100% brightness, with the high beam switch. I have it and recommend it. The D4s are very bright at 100%
Is that plug n' play? Are you simply tapping into the headlight relay?
 

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here is what I installed on my 2017 ES two years ago, still going, don't know the Watts
installed some additional Aux LED's, picked up on Amazon.ca for cca CAD 50.00 a pair, installed one pair of "spot" on top and one pair of "fog" on bottom, both wired on one switch and used during daytime for added visibility to others, and also for a nice look. Each light is advertised on Amazon as 1800 lumens each, but on the packaging it says 1000 lumens each, still bright enough. Before installation I squeezed some black silicone at the back of each light where the cable enters the fixture, also removed the front covers and created a small silicone bead for additional weatherproofing. Used power washer from 4-5ft away and so far so good, no water is getting inside the lights.



Bracket also picked up from Amazon.ca, a set of four brackets was CAD 40.00,


mounted two lights to one bracket, used washers to prevent the lights from spinning around, used canter punch to make the washers rough on both sides to increase tight grip between the lights and bracket.

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Discussion Starter #10
here is what I installed on my 2017 ES two years ago, still going, don't know the Watts
installed some additional Aux LED's, picked up on Amazon.ca for cca CAD 50.00 a pair, installed one pair of "spot" on top and one pair of "fog" on bottom, both wired on one switch and used during daytime for added visibility to others, and also for a nice look. Each light is advertised on Amazon as 1800 lumens each, but on the packaging it says 1000 lumens each, still bright enough. Before installation I squeezed some black silicone at the back of each light where the cable enters the fixture, also removed the front covers and created a small silicone bead for additional weatherproofing. Used power washer from 4-5ft away and so far so good, no water is getting inside the lights.



Bracket also picked up from Amazon.ca, a set of four brackets was CAD 40.00,


mounted two lights to one bracket, used washers to prevent the lights from spinning around, used canter punch to make the washers rough on both sides to increase tight grip between the lights and bracket.

Attached Thumbnails
[IMG alt="Click image for larger version
Name: 20181004_075857.jpg Views: 78 Size: 163.4 KB ID: 60689"]https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=60689&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1541729745[/IMG]
[IMG alt="Click image for larger version
Name: 20181004_080046.jpg Views: 50 Size: 153.0 KB ID: 60691"]https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=60691&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1541729750[/IMG]
[IMG alt="Click image for larger version
Name: IMG_20181015_192234.jpg Views: 117 Size: 56.7 KB ID: 60693"]https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=60693&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1541729802[/IMG]
[IMG alt="Click image for larger version
Name: IMG_20181021_162316.jpg Views: 84 Size: 210.6 KB ID: 60695"]https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=60695&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1541729824[/IMG]


[IMG alt="Click image for larger version
Name: 20181015_145428.jpg Views: 68 Size: 285.1 KB ID: 60707"]https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=60707&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1541730440[/IMG]
[IMG alt="Click image for larger version
Name: 71J1dyqqyLL._SL1500_.jpg Views: 42 Size: 92.8 KB ID: 60709"]https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=60709&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1541730697[/IMG]
Exactly the lights I bought for my 650 that worked for 2 years and worked when I traded it in. The new ones I got, exactly the same, are lemons. Wish I could get those older ones... definitely made better.
 

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Is that plug n' play? Are you simply tapping into the headlight relay?
The wiring harness connects to the battery and the lights, and you tap any source that comes on with ignition. For their DataDim, you plug the additional module into their wiring harness and tap the high beam.
 

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What is your primary goal: conspicuity, high-beam support (i.e. supplemental down-road light to better see what's waaay up ahead of you), low-beam support (i.e. supplemental near-road light to better see what's relatively near and / or wide of you), or something else entirely?
 

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Since you are critical on battery power, how about you mount two of these (3000 lumens each) tactical lights to your crush guards ;
  • aluminum body
  • waterproof
  • rechargeable
-5 light modes
- all you need is to bring some USB charging wires to keep them fully charged at all time


(I was seriously considering those before I installed my other $55.00 ones)
 

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I have Baja Designs S1 yellow floods mounted low on the crash bars.
I used the included harness, but my own handlebar switch and a relay.
They are well made but I think a bit less expensive than the Denalis
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What is your primary goal: conspicuity, high-beam support (i.e. supplemental down-road light to better see what's waaay up ahead of you), low-beam support (i.e. supplemental near-road light to better see what's relatively near and / or wide of you), or something else entirely?
Always good to start with requirements!

In an ideal world all three, but I know there are compromises. That's why the Denali DataDim tech mentioned above is intriguing.

I want to be more visible, and have even more lumens for my visibility on those dark road drives.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Since you are critical on battery power, how about you mount two of these (3000 lumens each) tactical lights to your crush guards ;
  • aluminum body
  • waterproof
  • rechargeable
-5 light modes
- all you need is to bring some USB charging wires to keep them fully charged at all time


(I was seriously considering those before I installed my other $55.00 ones)
I do have a collection of flashlights and 18650 lithium batteries, and portable 18650 chargers. I like how you think. I'm definitely going to use that for tertiary lighting! I would still want on-demand switching which implies fully wired in lights. Maybe I can get bluetooth enabled lights! :D
 

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A problem is a company will get some lights built by a contractor and they will work great, the company will get them to build some more but this time the contactor will find some that will build them cheaper so he subies the job out, they may still be a OK light but that subcontractor subies it out to another so the further down the line to poorer the quality but in the shop they are have the original brand on them, you never really know what your buying.
 
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I've had great luck with LED lights from Yitamotor on ebay. I've purchased a good many
pairs for a half dozen vehicles over the past few years. His stuff last a long time and is a good water proof product and most of his kits work with a harness, switch and relay kit which can be purchased separately . ( not expensive )
The set on my bikes crash bars only cost $25. plus the harness - And work perfectly.
18 Watts each. I had to fab the mounts for the crash bar but otherwise was plug and play.
 
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