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Discussion Starter #1
I spent about seven hours today installing Dual Star heated grips. It was my first time stripping down a Strom, so I took my time and learned a few good things.

http://picasaweb.google.com/bobosmite/MotorcyclePics

1. Cover the battery with a (dry) towel.
2. It's tight, but you don't have to remove the Givi bars.
3. Clean the airbox while you're at it.
4. There's a "secret screw" on the side cowling...don't miss it.
5. It's easier to put it back together than it is to take apart.

The most important thing I learned: Buy PN# 36852-06G00 (horn plug wire). I spent half my time trying to tap the connector and there's just not enough room to work. I couldn't shave the wire prior to tapping and tried to hand-tighten the connections. It would have taken a whole two minutes with the OEM connector.
 

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Just spent the afternoon/evening doing the same thing - though I'm not done yet. I did not take off the tank. I just took out the fairing bolts that go into the radiator and the bolt at the bottom of the rad and swung the rad forward. I also removed the black plastic piece under the tank on the left side - though that turned out to optional.

From there I could see the heated grip connector. It was taped tightly to the wiring harness. There were two connectors at the end of the harness that needed to be unplugged.

Lying on the ground on the right side of the bike, I reached up in front of the forward cylinder and released the yellow wiring harness and the whitish/clear 3-wire one that is also in that bundle. It took me a long time to figure out how to release each harness as I couldn't see anything and I could barely move my hands in there.

With the two connectors released, I was able to pull the end of the wiring harness out and untape the heated grip connector. I had about two inches of free wire after removing the tape. I just tapped my power leads into that. I used those connectors that fold over and pierce the wire's jacket. Not sure how good they are but I can fish the harness out now in no time if I need to fix it.

At the other end I decided to put my on/off switch in where the blank spot above the starter button. I managed to find a nice high/low/off switch to fit in there. I had to make the hole bigger and also mod the switch a bit. But it looks pretty good. It took me several hour to whittle the hole just the right side. I also cut myself twice. Once with the know and once on the plastic itself.

Tomorrow I have to finish the install before lunch.

If at a later date I decide to add a heat-troller I've left enough wire on each heater that I can re-route them to the HT.
 

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Buy PN# 36852-06G00 (horn plug wire). I spent half my time trying to tap the connector and there's just not enough room to work. I couldn't shave the wire prior to tapping and tried to hand-tighten the connections. It would have taken a whole two minutes with the OEM connector.
I have this exact connector (unused, in pkg) in my garage if someone would like to buy it. I'm currently on the road but will be back to AZ in less than 10 days.

Stromette
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I should have said I was working on a DL1000. I only *wish* the radiator would swing out of the way. There's a radiator hose on the right side that allows the radiator to only move about 1". I'm only going back in there one more time...with the right part! <smile>
 

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Sorry didn't know there was a difference in the rad setup on the V.

I've run into a problem of my own. When I put the start switch back together things did not go so well. I push the button and nothing happens. The bike goes through its boot up sequence and primes the fuel pump but it won't start. The headlight go out which at first I thought indicated a weak battery but I've determined that for the K5 the second set of contacts on the starter switch turn off the headlights during the start. That's an educated guess, can anyone deny/confirm this? I only have the schematic for a K4.

I'm pretty certain I just didn't get the second harness seated properly. Just checking now to see which harness goes to the starter motor. Glad I have a service manual.
 

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Sounds like a lot of work, guys.

I had the Suzuki grips installed on my Vee in about one hour. It is a bit tight getting at the harness, but I was able to do it with a couple of pairs of long needle-nose pliers. No crimping or stripping of wires required. Just plug into the harness. I only had to remove the right side fairing to do it.
 

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Found the problem... I had somehow knocked the harness off the clutch lever. You can't start it without that.
 

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I installed my Suzuki heated grips in about an hour. No special tools were needed, I did not even use needle nose pliers. Just loosened the radiator and swung it out (it does not move very far out) put some Dy electric grease on the connector and stuck my hands in there to plug it in. I did cut my hands all to hell in there but that could have been prevented with the pliers or some mechanic gloves.

By the way I love the heated grips, what a difference on my commute in the morning.
 

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Heated grips sure can make a difference in your ride.

You should fill out more info in your profile. That way, if it says you're in Tucson where its in the 80's, we Northern guys can give you crap about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
HEAVY, do you ride on the snow and ice during the winter or do you have to wait until the roads are clear? It gets close to freezing in FL, but it never snows.
 

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HEAVY, do you ride on the snow and ice during the winter or do you have to wait until the roads are clear? It gets close to freezing in FL, but it never snows.
It snowed once or twice when I lived in Florida.
 

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Once the roads start to freeze I give up and put the bike away. No point in being that silly. I don't mind if its cold out but, when the ground starts to freeze its time for the Strom to rest. Wet roads are OK, icy roads are not worth the risk.
 

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I'll bet there's a lot of us putting on heated grips this weekend. I just did a couple of projects this week which I will post separately. The heated grips are the shiznit.
 

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Back to the topic - I learned that once you get the bar ends back on - don't mess with them! I installed my heated grips (Heaterz) and had to end up taking off the handlebar to get the damn bar end nut out of the middle of the handlebars.

Total install time - 3 hours. Lessons learned:

1.) Once you take it apart - its easy to get back together.
2.) Don't screw with the bar ends if you don't have to.
3.) You WILL drop that washer or screw in a place where you cannot find it.
4.) I can't do anything simple.

In the end - I love the grips. It was 28 outside and I took the bike around the block and my hands were HOT! I can't wait to spend a full day in the saddle Saturday.

Tige
 

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Guys , all it took me , was a two hour coffee break and 30E for the instalation .
 

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The handlebar is an unobstructed tube. A plumber's snake is a perfect tool to push out anything dropped into the bar. It's flexible to follow the bends yet stiff enough to push through without sticking. The expanded end is a perfect size too.
 

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Not that you would know from past experience, or anything. ;)
 
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