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Discussion Starter #1
OK, parts gurus...please help me ID this part that was left over after I installed the rear wheel on my 2012 DL650.

282807

It looks like one of the spacers, but I had both of them. Everything went together fine.

This is what I get for failing to label my parts when I remove them.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looks like I'll get another round of practice removing/installing the rear wheel...

Thanks.
 

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Without that part, your wheel won't turn smoothly once it's torqued up so that's a dead giveaway.

But there's something else as well. When you normally torque up the wheel nut, the axial load induced by the torque should run via the inner race of the 3 bearings and the spacers between these inner races (#8 and #13) through to the other side. In other words: a straight shot along the axle. But as you mounted the wheel without #8, you have now changed this load path, crossing over from the middle bearing inner race, via the bearing balls themselves. to the outer race and to the wheel hub. The hub and sprocket carrier are then compressed together. And at the sprocket carrier you do the same: crossover the load from the sprocket carrier via the outer race and bearing balls to the inner race. This introduces a sideways load on the ball bearings for which they are not designed and that can ruin them very quickly.

I hope you did not torque up the axle yet, but if you did, take things apart and check the smoothness of the two bearings on the sprocket side (one in the wheel hub, one in the sprocket carrier). If in any doubt, replace them.

Oh, and when you put in the spacer, check the correct orientation. Loads of people have inserted the spacer the wrong way round, which leads to essentially the same problem.
 

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Looks like I'll get another round of practice removing/installing the rear wheel...
Tip for removing the rear wheel:
Ingredients: The long ratchet strap end with hook (not the mechanism)
  • put bike on ceterstand
  • thread strap through the rim, hook onto grabrail
  • pull the strap tight and tie on the opposite grab rail
  • now remove the axle, the wheel will be suspended by the strap at the correct height, if the strap was pulled tight
  • unhook the strap and do what needs done to the wheel
  • to mount, basically do the opposite steps
  • suspend the wheel by the strap
  • put the caliper bracket in the correct position and insert the axle from the caliper side to hold the bracket, much easier that way
  • make sure all the spacers are in the correct position and gradually push the axle through, wiggling the wheel a little
  • put the axle nut on with anti seize and hand tighten
  • untie the strap, set chain tension and torque the axle nut, DONE
 

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Sounds like a lot of work. Grab the wheel with one hand and pull/ put the axle in with the other. It isn't a monster truck wheel.
 

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I have a few wood blocks I put under the rear wheel. One of them is tapered like a ramp, so few whacks with a mallet and I can adjust the wheel to align with the axle height. To each his own.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I hope you did not torque up the axle yet, but if you did, take things apart and check the smoothness of the two bearings on the sprocket side (one in the wheel hub, one in the sprocket carrier). If in any doubt, replace them.

Oh, and when you put in the spacer, check the correct orientation. Loads of people have inserted the spacer the wrong way round, which leads to essentially the same problem.
Nope, didn't torque things.

I did the project this morning, which took less time than I allotted. Basically pulled the axle again, dropped the wheel down enough to get at everything, and put the mystery part in place. Then put it all back together. All done in under 30 minutes.
 

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Never heard of "blaustrom's" idea......but I like it...!!!
Another trick I use is insert the axle into the right side first (i.e. axle nut will end up on left side of swingarm when done). This makes aligning the chain adjuster/brake caliper bracket/spacer/wheel alittle easier since the axle will keep all these in alignment when pushing it thru the wheel to the other side.
 

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Another trick I use is insert the axle into the right side first (i.e. axle nut will end up on left side of swingarm when done). This makes aligning the chain adjuster/brake caliper bracket/spacer/wheel alittle easier since the axle will keep all these in alignment when pushing it thru the wheel to the other side.
I'm going to try this next time. I also have the AdventureTech spacer mod, so I have yet another washer to juggle into place. Maybe by inserting the axle from the right that makes it easier too.

I saw a post a while back from someone claiming that even torquing up the axle becomes easier. Can't comment on that yet, but it's worth a try.
 

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I'm going to try this next time. I also have the AdventureTech spacer mod, so I have yet another washer to juggle into place. Maybe by inserting the axle from the right that makes it easier too.

I saw a post a while back from someone claiming that even torquing up the axle becomes easier. Can't comment on that yet, but it's worth a try.
I tried putting it in backwards once and found that dealing with the extra washer was a bigger pain putting the axle in from the caliper side. I find that taking the extra step of removing the caliper from the bracket makes it a lot easier to keep it where it needs to go when reinstalling the wheel.
 

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.... I find that taking the extra step of removing the caliper from the bracket makes it a lot easier to keep it where it needs to go when reinstalling the wheel.
Well and you argue that its too involved to use a strap to suspend the wheel but you even remove the caliper .... I wonder which method is really simpler ....
 

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Well and you argue that its too involved to use a strap to suspend the wheel but you even remove the caliper .... I wonder which method is really simpler ....
The caliper comes off in 30 seconds and counteracts the caliper brackets tendency to rotate towards the wheel. How does hanging the wheel do anything about that? It's one of the pita things about the way suzuki mounts the rear brakes.
 

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Never heard of "blaustrom's" idea......but I like it...!!!
Another trick I use is insert the axle into the right side first (i.e. axle nut will end up on left side of swingarm when done). This makes aligning the chain adjuster/brake caliper bracket/spacer/wheel a little easier since the axle will keep all these in alignment when pushing it thru the wheel to the other side.
Its actually not my idea, someone else posted this before but I don't have the reference. Having 2 hands to assemble makes it so much easier as inserting the axle from the right side does.
 

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I tried putting the axle in from the right side. Seemed like torquing the axle nut caused the chain adjustment to tighten up so I went back to the left side.

AdventureTech spacer washer: I put a very thin coat of rtv silicone on it to glue the washer and spacer together. Easy to undo if I want to.

Carry a piece of hardwood dowel stock in my tool kit. Insert that from right side to line everything up. Then insert axle from left side to chase the dowel out.

Lift the wheel with my toes to line things up for the dowel. Works for me.

Jathkajoe
 

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I used to use a ramp to put under the rear wheel to hold it up to free up strength expended holding wheel up.....I wish I thought of the strap idea. Easy to pack a strap also.


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