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I searched high and low for them when I bought mine back in Nov. I couldn't find any.

Hopefully they'll start making them soon!
 

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I tried an LED bulb. It didn't work very well. the light is too concentrated making it hard to see. I wish they would have put in two bulbs like the old Wee.
 

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I have the Kisan Tailblazer plug-in brake light modulator. They sell an LED lamp replacement which I tried, but it is very disappointing. It is a flat disc and only shines straight out in one small area so it's much dimmer than an incandescent which fully utilizes the reflector to illuminate the lens. There are many LED replacement lamps out there, if you try one (I think the stock is an 1157 lamp) be sure to get one that has LEDs all the way around as well as on the end.
 

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If you are looking for more conspicuity, check out the 'ADMORE LED Light Bar'.
Hooks into the Glee very well with the Eastern Beaver adaptor. Tail lights, brake lights, turn signals and supports emergency flashers.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm looking for both reduced electrical draw and added conspicuity; the Admore obviously does more to get people's attention, but exacerbates my electrical concerns.
 

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What are your electrical concerns needs? A tail light doesn't draw much power.

The light you linked is seriously cool though.

Regarding adding lights, signal dynamics makes a nice selection of LED brake lights and modules that a quite a bit less expensive than the Ad-more. http://www.adventuretech.biz/brake-light-modules.html

I have thought about doing a group buy for this add on LED light. It could be done for $20.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
What are your electrical concerns needs? A tail light doesn't draw much power.
So, I didn't want to turn this into an expose' on my electrical ignorance, but maybe that's what's needed. :mrgreen:

Here's what I've got: 2013 DL650, original battery; EB 3CS powering a Garmin 2720 Streetpilot (unswitched), Oxford heated grips (switched), and an SAE lead (switched); EB headlight relay direct to the battery terminals; electrified tank bag off the factory heated grips lead (but nothing plugged into it); two 10w Vision X Solstice LED lights off the factory accessory lead; FirstGear dual heat-troller direct to battery terminals running a 90w jacket liner and socks (18w total); system monitored by a Signal Dynamics Heads-Up module.

Of course, there was never any problem (that I knew about) until I installed the SD module. When I'm running the GPS, aux lights, grips at 30% and jacket at ~30%, AND I'm at a stoplight (brakes on, sometimes turn signals, engine idling), the SD will fluctuate between amber and red. Yes, I can blip the throttle to get in back in the green, I can momentarily turn off the heat, lights, etc., but I'd rather keep my hands on the controls and eyes on the mirrors at stoplights. (If I let off the brakes, it fluctuates between green and amber.) And just for clarification, the bike has never given any indication of electrical problems, runs fine, starts fine, etc.

Turn signals are easy enough to convert to LED, I was hoping to find a plug-and-play LED brake/taillight to reduce unnecessary wattage.

I know I'm probably making a big deal out of nothing, considering the time spent sitting at traffic lights and stop signs versus being on the gas, but if I can free up some watts and get a brighter brake lights out of the deal, I don't mind going to the trouble. Maybe I'll just get one of those LED lights for the older Wee and see if I can convert the board to the 2012+ housing.
 

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Fluctuating between amber and red means it is around 12.6 or 12.8 VDC. It may not be charging but that's not a serious discharge either and isn't going to hurt the battery for a few minutes at idle. I wouldn't worry unless it was amber at cruising RPMs. Just my two cents.
 

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While not a replacement for the rear combo light.
I was able for only about $20 in parts get a decent set of led lights that I modded the clear red lens area on my top box to hold and the system works pretty well.

I used red colored "water resistant" 12v lights from superbrightleds
 

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a Signal Dynamics Heads-Up module. Of course said:
I don't run any extra electrical loads and my SD module does the same thing. I have it wired into the right side power outlet because it was easy. May be there is a little VD going on there. :jawdrop: At anything off of dead idle I have a green light.
 

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+1 on Superbrightled's...
I went with a replacement "Tower" style bulb # 1157-rhp28-t, It's significantly brighter than stock set up, $24.95.
Also added Admore light kit for my V-47 Givi and additional strips (4 total) w/ running,stop & turn functions and have been told it now is "Lit up like a GoldWing" from the back now.:yikes:

Superbrightleds.com; Very satisfied with their brake and signal LEDs, and dot LEDs, and bolt LEDs, and modulators.
 

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Starchamp, Since a driver told me that he only saw this led stop light, I've added 1 of these to the bottom of all my license plates. http://www.amazon.com/GYB-Products-..._2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1432728869&sr=1-2 The 4 end leds on both sides are amber for turn signals the 17 center leds are red for running & brake light functions. It has a pretty long heat shrink covered wiring harness & stainless hardware as well.
 
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