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Discussion Starter #1
By any chance any of you guys put led bulb(h7) on your Vee? If so which brand?
looking to put one on my 2018, but the space seems limited to put one with the cooling fan.

thanks
 

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Here You Go

Below is the offical Suzuki headlight spec for a 2018 Vstrom 1000. You can get for $45 each the 3rd generation LED plug and play H-7 and H-9 lamps from ADV Rocket, link below. I have this product in my 650K7 and would not have anything else. There is no fan and the metal, bendable lattice you see is the heat sink. BUT, I would contact John Sanford, the engineer-owner and ask about the 2018 Vstrom fit. It is very important the actual light source on the LED be in the same physical place as on the OEM. Because, light performance is nearly entirely dependent upon the reflector inside headlight bucket. You can remove the OEM bulb or just look at it from the outside see if the beam emitter points up or down on the low beam and the high beam points up or down. ANY retrofit must be oriented the same as the OEM or you will get scatter or worse. Many on this forum have had that problem. In most respects, any H-7 and H-9 will have the same mounting design and the same beam emitter design. I use John's 2G H-4 and it is identical with the beam emitters on the OEM but G1 was off some and worked ok but not really good like the G2 does. I was recently on a road in MT near a river at dark dusk and on HB I could see the trees on both sides of the road and clouds of millions of insects but that is not scatter: it's lots of lumens. The H-7 LED puts out 4800 lumen at about 25 watts and the H-9 is the same: together you'd be running a landing light and you'd like it. But beware the interaction between the reflector and emitter.




Headlight 12V 65W (H9 high-beam) & 12V 55W (H7 low-beam) 12V 65W (H9 high-beam) & 12V 55W (H7 low-beam)


Headlight Replacement - ADVmonster
 

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if same as the 14's

cyclops have them
 

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Subscribed. I too am interested in this.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, here it is. I've changed my low beam for a led h7. 4500lm 6000k
I'm happy but not overwhelmed. Yes it's brighter the light spectrum it's not the same!
Pros: whiter
all the reflective material (on panel, traffic cone...) lights up like an upcoming train.
seems like I'm more noticeable by other road user( the light doesn't seems to blind them do)
the light seems to have a wider pattern

Cons: the one with the fan and module are a tight fit under the dust cap. but they fit and nothing to cut or make an hole so it's still waterproof( I think thats cancel the con!! you judge)
Doesn't seems to have the same effective length of sight as my halogen( explanation below)
Unknown heat dissipation in that confine space.

The one I've bought had 2 led on each side. Like almost all of the led bulb for that purpose. The thing is when installed the led points on the side. the emitting light goes sideways not like a halogen bulb all around. I think that's why the light beam seems having a wider pattern, but lacking in length effective lighting. not having an emitting source of light going up from the bulb to the reflective backing ,backing doesn't reflect nothing!!

I think that the ones with 3 sides led. (like a triangle viewed from the front) might be better. one led pointing up and the other 2 pointing down and sideways. giving more lighting like an halogen bulb that emits light on 360 degrees.

But for a longer range view I still have the high beam that I can use ;-)


2 thing to do now :1.change that orangish position light ont that head light. 2.Find someone who wants a h7 headlight bulb( they come in a 2-pack for cars) and exchange him for an h9 led for my highbeam.
 

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Good Write-up

I think you have a separate bucket for the LB and HB. If your halogen LB filament sits out in the clear so the light can emit in 360 deg vertically, then the LED must do the same. However, this seems strange because the LB has a cut line so there is little light above it and lots below. This usually achieved because halogen bulb has a metal screen preventing light from emitting downward. I think the LED must nest in metal so the only way to have light emit and up and down is to have 2 LEDs emitting at the same time; this is the G2 design from ADV Monster I have: both emit on HB and only the up emitting one emits on LB. I have seen designs using 3 LEDs in a triangular metal house, which should be a design compromise because only one of them could point straight up. John Sanford, owner of ADV Monster encourages contact for fitment issues. I don't know about this but if an H-7 is a dedicated LB and the H-9 is a dedicated HB, with 2 completely different and separate headlights, you may have a fitment problem, which you do as you are not overwhelmed with the difference from OEM. With both of your headlights on, you have nearly 10,000 lumens but if the geometry of the LED emitters does not precisely duplicate the same for the OEM, you won't like it very much. Good luck; I spent gobs of time on this subject. The below link for a blog that John is active on and a place for placing pictures of your set up. Many people offered images of beam patterns on it. It is among the more confusing, even confounding upgrades I have encountered: some understand the importance of the headlight reflector, all eventually do. I have a 2015 Subaru and it has 3 headlights on each side. The main light has a halogen bulb with 2 filaments and a shaped relector, same as my 2007 wee, and it has a running light with a shaped lens in front and some kind of light source behind that I can't see, and the "cornering" light also use a shaped lens in front. Only the main headlight beam is reflector dependent and other two are lens dependent.



ADVmonster LED Headlight! | Adventure Rider
 

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Below is the offical Suzuki headlight spec for a 2018 Vstrom 1000. You can get for $45 each the 3rd generation LED plug and play H-7 and H-9 lamps from ADV Rocket, link below. I have this product in my 650K7 and would not have anything else. There is no fan and the metal, bendable lattice you see is the heat sink. BUT, I would contact John Sanford, the engineer-owner and ask about the 2018 Vstrom fit. It is very important the actual light source on the LED be in the same physical place as on the OEM. Because, light performance is nearly entirely dependent upon the reflector inside headlight bucket. You can remove the OEM bulb or just look at it from the outside see if the beam emitter points up or down on the low beam and the high beam points up or down. ANY retrofit must be oriented the same as the OEM or you will get scatter or worse. Many on this forum have had that problem. In most respects, any H-7 and H-9 will have the same mounting design and the same beam emitter design. I use John's 2G H-4 and it is identical with the beam emitters on the OEM but G1 was off some and worked ok but not really good like the G2 does. I was recently on a road in MT near a river at dark dusk and on HB I could see the trees on both sides of the road and clouds of millions of insects but that is not scatter: it's lots of lumens. The H-7 LED puts out 4800 lumen at about 25 watts and the H-9 is the same: together you'd be running a landing light and you'd like it. But beware the interaction between the reflector and emitter.









Headlight12V 65W (H9 high-beam) & 12V 55W (H7 low-beam)12V 65W (H9 high-beam) & 12V 55W (H7 low-beam)





Headlight Replacement - ADVmonster


I bought the H7 (low beam) for my 2018 from ADVmonster, link in quote. What I do not like is that I am unable to put the plastic dust cover, which screws on, back on the bike. I am a little concerned of dirt and water ingress into the light bucket. Not sure if I will keep this, or put it back to stock.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Just placed the order for Cyclops h7 LED bulb. Will see how's the light pattern.


Any chance to test them out?


2018 V-Strom 1000 XT
Past Rides:
2008 BMW K1200S, 2005(x2) Triumph Sprint ST 1050, 2005 BMW R1150R, 2004 Suzuki Intruder 1500, 2003 Yamaha 650 V-Star,1992 Honda 125 Enduro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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The bulb has just arrived this afternoon, my last day off. I have days off again from 28th of December so no time to do anything before that. As soon as I install it, I'll write down the review.
 

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The bulb has just arrived this afternoon, my last day off. I have days off again from 28th of December so no time to do anything before that. As soon as I install it, I'll write down the review.


If you could include the link to the actual product you purchased when doing the review, that would be most helpful. Thanks for offering to do a review.


2018 V-Strom 1000 XT
Past Rides:
2008 BMW K1200S, 2005(x2) Triumph Sprint ST 1050, 2005 BMW R1150R, 2004 Suzuki Intruder 1500, 2003 Yamaha 650 V-Star,1992 Honda 125 Enduro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I fixed my LED install with RTV sealant. Cut a 25mm hole in the dust cover that goes over the low beam, passed the heat sink braid through it, then sealed with RTV. Just waiting for it to fully cure (24hours), before putting it all back together (dash back on). Not entirely happy having to use RTV, but, it is the best I could think of given how the heat sink braid runs.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I fixed my LED install with RTV sealant. Cut a 25mm hole in the dust cover that goes over the low beam, passed the heat sink braid through it, then sealed with RTV. Just waiting for it to fully cure (24hours), before putting it all back together (dash back on). Not entirely happy having to use RTV, but, it is the best I could think of given how the heat sink braid runs.
Mine has a cooling fan and no cuts and fitted under the dust cap. Usually people wrap the braids between the back of the reflector and the case.
 

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Mine has a cooling fan and no cuts and fitted under the dust cap. Usually people wrap the braids between the back of the reflector and the case.
That was not an option. The braid would have folded back, but the electronic package that was included on the connection cable made that impossible.
 

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Just installed H7 Cyclops LED. Had the bike positioned on center stand in garage, 5 meters away from the wall. Before doing anything I marked the line on the wall where my halogen bulb was focused.
As for installation, all went well. I decided to keep the driver out of the housing, as it heats up a bit and doesn't seem to fit inside the housing. For that, I cut the slot on the side of the dust cap, put it on, tighten the driver, the plug and the wires with zipties and then sealed well around the slot I cut, so no dust or moister can find their way in. As a sealant I used something I had at home, similar to plasticine that would never dry out.
Here is the photo of my setup:

I'm still to do test ride at night. I'll probably do it tomorrow night as I need some more time for that, to go out of the town to unlit roads and ride some in the town.
At the end, I confirmed the focal point of LED on the mark I had on the wall (I didn't move the bike during the installation) and it was waaaay too high. I lowered it and now it's on the spot.
So, I'll see after the test ride if I'm gonna take it off or keep it.
 

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Installed these a few months ago and have been very happy with them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017M566T4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Price was right and the increase in brightness is very welcome indeed.

The only challenge I had during the installation is getting the protective rubber barrier around the new LED headlights so they would set in correctly with the wee exhaust fans outside of the headlamp encasement.
 

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I still didn't have time to do an extensive test ride at night. I'm not very excited nor with big expectations as I saw the focal point on the wall and it looked much more dispersed (less concentrated) then with halogen bulb (on the same wall).
But first I have to test it.
 

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Final Review

Finally had time to do a decent night run. Took it easy, for 2 hours, all kind of lit and unlit roads, with and without traffic.
During first few miles I was confused by a focal point of Cyclops LED LO Beam (H7). But 5-10 minutes later I got used to it and started to like it.
The main reason I'm doing all this is for the day rides. I use my LED side DRL's and have relay installed that switches of the bike's lights when DRL's are on. Well, that's against the law (at least here in Portugal) but after I installed DRL's, ocasions of cars cutting my path got reduced by 90% as I'm very visible. But, a lot of friends told me that I'm pushing my luck as I'll get pulled over by police sooner or later. Bikes here have to have LO Beam on all the time. That is the reason I'm trying with hedlight that has a color match of my DRL's (tried all kind of colored halogens and beside them being short life span they illuminate the road very poorly).
So, as explained in my previous posts, LO Beam hight had to be adjusted a lot prior the first ride.
Now, the confusion on first 5-10 minutes of riding came from light spreading being completely different. All road signs, painted lines on the road, white objects etc, that are far away (more then 150 meters) were glowing like they had their own source of light. It was distracting at the beginning as I was not used to see anything that far away at night. Then, there is no sharp line where halogen light pattern ends. Line is there but it's not sharp anymore. There is a lot of light on the sides of the bike as the pattern is now much wider then with halogen. That gave great side illumination on back roads. I could clearly see everything on the sides. I can't say the angle was 180º, as it doesn't exist but it was, let's say, 150º with LED against 120º with halogen. So, another plus point. As for oncoming traffic, I've never got flashed, not even once, and I'm talking about 300-400 cars I ecountered this evening.
Then there is huge illuminated ball just 2-3 meters at the front of the bike. With halogen it didn't exist. Any problem on road surface will be quickly noticed now. As for the last positive, the color is just what I wanted.
As for the negative, there is only one point. With halogen, there was that sharp line where light pattern ends. Above that light, there was still some light that would spread and go far away, 100 meters or more and give some poor illumination, but however, there was some light. With this LED the light ends at 50 meters down the road and after that there is still some light but almost invisible. So, that is only negative point but the difference between halogen and LED in that area further then 50 meters is not that big but still noticeable.
As for HI Beam, I will not touch it. A friend of mine purchased Cyclops H9 for his '18 model DL1000 and it was complete disaster. He said, there is a lot of light everywhere arround the bike but no light at long distance nor focal point.
So, after all, it's a keeper. Now have to find some time to remove the relay as I have to open the dash... again...
 

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Just tried cheap H9 LED for HI Beam and it was complete disaster. Light is there but there is no illumination of the road. If I had money to go with H9 Cyclops maybe it'd be OK but can't spend that much now. My problem now is just that HI beam is orange compared with the rest of the bike's lights. So, placed order for Osram Cool Blue H9, 75W (10 more watts then OEM H9), 5000K light temperature (same as LED) and those extra 10W are there to compensate for light loss by blue glass on it.
 
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