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Discussion Starter #1
2005 Wee...I want to connect 2x10W LED running lights into the same circuit as my headlights so that they are on whenever my headlights are on - either low or high beam. I will also have a switch to turn them off if I want to. Where's the best place to hook up into headlight circuit? I'm also fitting the EB headlight relay kit.
Thanks for any advice :)
 

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You want to wire a relay to the headlight wiring or draw power from the headlight wiring?

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2005 Wee...I want to connect 2x10W LED running lights into the same circuit as my headlights so that they are on whenever my headlights are on - either low or high beam. I will also have a switch to turn them off if I want to. Where's the best place to hook up into headlight circuit? I'm also fitting the EB headlight relay kit.
I'm not sure if any of the info on the page will help:

http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650a-2012-2016/112409-aux-connector-heated-grip-connector-location.html

In any case, I wouldn't try to connect to the headlights, because of the whole Hi/Lo beam issue (two wires - would need diodes)

The "Signals" circuit is 15A - and sends power to the brake light circuit (info as above), and "optional grip heaters" - I'd start around there. I don't think the Wee has the "Aux" connector in the front right? That would make it easy.
 

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Read your first post again. What you need is a relay wired to a hot when ignition on wire. The aux lights should be powered directly from the battery. Many wiring harnesses for aux lights come with this relay. As mentionned, there are several sources for the relay switching wire (gen 2 wee) : 12v aux connector in fairing, heated grip connector and tail light wiring are the most common. Refer to the wiring diagram located in the service manual.

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the feedback - was hoping to have the led's go off with the headlights when i hit the starter but looks like I may have to just switch off and on when required.
No big deal but would have been handy...
 

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To have the lights go off when you hit the starter: You will have to source power for the lights (or ideally power for the coil of a relay that is connected between the battery/fuse and DRL's) from the Y/W wire going from the starter button on the right to the passing light / dimmer switch on the left.

You'd have to posi-tap in, which I recommend against unless you really have to. This wire passes through connectors on both sides - it's possible Eastern Beaver has matching connectors that you could use to make a breakout.

I've seen somewhere a H4 male/female connector that brings out the Hi/Lo beam signals. Or you could modify a male-female extender to make a breakout. You could wire each of those wires to the anodes of 2 diodes, and the cathodes of those two diodes to your relay. Hard to explain, easy to draw if you want.

Either way, with a breakout you can easily remove what you've added on the side of the road, if something bad happens - always in my thoughts when designing stuff in.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wow! Thats a reply!! Thanks :)
Although reading some other posts, Greywolf mentions that these lights should probably be connected so that they only come on with low beam to comply with roadrules. I'm in ACT and we have some very keen highway patrollers (d!ckheads) who may not be happy with my original plan. So I'll hook em into low beam circuit, with a switch. With the EB headlight relay kit, the circuit should be able to handle an extra 20W. Sound sensible to you?
 

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Another option is a Skene iq275, which will work either in street legal mode (aux lights off with high beam) or gimme more lighting mode: 3 way adjustable with low beam, max intensity with high beam.

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Although reading some other posts, Greywolf mentions that these lights should probably be connected so that they only come on with low beam to comply with roadrules. I'm in ACT and we have some very keen highway patrollers (d!ckheads) who may not be happy with my original plan. So I'll hook em into low beam circuit, with a switch. With the EB headlight relay kit, the circuit should be able to handle an extra 20W. Sound sensible to you?
To me it makes sense for them in low beam only. My wiring is:

- Low beams to DRL's always
- High beams to spotlights through a toggle switch so I can run high beams without spots - not that I ever would.

My DRL's are combined with indicators and I have a circuit to drop the DRL on either side while that indicator is flashing because DRL's close to indicators can be problematic for visibility.
 

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Most state laws state you can have fog lights that come on with the low beams and/or driving lights that come on with the high beams. You aren't allowed to have lights powerful enough to aid in seeing the road that stay on with both beams. There are laws about height in light mounting that differentiate between fog lights and driving lights as well as beam cutoff. Fog lights are mounted low and have a beam cutoff at the top so as not to blind oncoming drivers. Driving lights are mounted higher and light up the world.

If you don't care about that and don't have government vehicle inspections to assure compliance before licencing, it's easy enough to wire lights so they go off with the start button. Just connect the trigger wire for the light relay to the yellow/white wire in the harness coming from the right handlebar pod to a connector behind the radiator top shroud. Otherwise, use the yellow wire to the headlights to trigger driving lights and/or the black/blue wire to trigger fog lights.
 
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