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Discussion Starter #1
I've looked on forum, but I'm curious what others gave used that work. I have brightasslights on my Harley as well as custom dynamics. Is anyone using them ?

Thanks

Don
 

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After a bump from behind by a less-than-attentive pickup driver, I bought AdMore lights for my Givi V47. They operate as run/turn/brake lights with a few options: "ping" mode, disable run function (so turn and brake only.) The kit is working well.

An alternative I have seen is to use an LIN3 from Whelen Engineering in place of the rear reflector. Hit the stop pedal and even God's own self will know you are electing to whoa up.
 

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I have admore lights on my e55 but I don't think they are bright enough, I have a small led warning light for trailers wired into my brake light circuit and bracketed under my top box rack, it works great, it's got 10 different flash patterns too but I just picked one I thought would be most eye catching,
I find it great if I'm sitting waiting to turn right on a 2 lane road, if I'm holding the brake on this light is flashing as well as the indicator.
https://www.ebay.ie/itm/247-LIGHTING-LED-WARNING-LIGHT-RED-FLASHING-STROBE-RECOVERY-12V-24V-CA6087R-/291733237724
 

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I have Hyperlites. The 3 way combo. I swear that vehicles stop 10-15ft further back than without them.

3way all in one running light brake light turn signals


This is in part what I have. I did run a LED strip behind the red reflector on my trunk (bench test pictured ) to work with the hyperlites and tail lights all 3 run through a "back-off" switch. The hyperlites pictured have now been swapped out to the 8 count vs. the four count. I'm always watching my 6 while stopped at a light or sign and it does seem cages do stop a ways back when I engage the brake.
 

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I have a givi simply II top box.
I went to my local electronics supply house and picked up some red leds I built it so I had a brighter running light and a brighter and larger brake light.
Total cost was about $12 and it took me about an two hours not including design time.
I put the leds under the red lens of the top box and had to wire the top box, I used a automotive trailer flat four pin SAE connector to do the work.
 

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I have replaced all my 1156 & 1157's with JDM AStar led bulbs and am extremely happy with them. They are something like 1200 lumens. Doubt the people behind me like them but I don't have any problems being seen.


With all LED bulbs (minus the license plate light) and LED H4's I can run two 90W heated jacket liners at full blast and keep my battery above 13.25V. This was tested at idle so should be more while cruising.
 

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I have replaced all my 1156 & 1157's with JDM AStar led bulbs and am extremely happy with them. They are something like 1200 lumens. Doubt the people behind me like them but I don't have any problems being seen.


With all LED bulbs (minus the license plate light) and LED H4's I can run two 90W heated jacket liners at full blast and keep my battery above 13.25V. This was tested at idle so should be more while cruising.
Running heated gear is important to me. What year and model bike do you have?
 

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I installed an LED bulb, can't remember which one, in my stock light.

I've added 3 red Whelen LIN3 lights on the back end. 2 are set up as running lights. When the brake is applied they flash a brief pattern and then go solid. 1 is set up to come on and remain solid when the brake is applied.

The photos don't do the LIN3s justice. They are far brighter and more noticeable than my stock running/brake light.
 

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I installed an LED bulb, can't remember which one, in my stock light.

I've added 3 red Whelen LIN3 lights on the back end. 2 are set up as running lights. When the brake is applied they flash a brief pattern and then go solid. 1 is set up to come on and remain solid when the brake is applied.

The photos don't do the LIN3s justice. They are far brighter and more noticeable than my stock running/brake light.
Details on your configuration?
 

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Take a look at Skene Designs. I've used them on several bikes. Depending on the controller you use they can be aux flashing brake lights or add turn signal function rear or front and rear. Been very happy with them. I use the yellow front/red rear combo with the turn signal function. When you tap the brakes all 4 flash briefly which I use as a "heads up" sometimes to get someone ahead of me to notice.
 

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I have replaced all my 1156 & 1157's with JDM AStar led bulbs and am extremely happy with them. They are something like 1200 lumens. Doubt the people behind me like them but I don't have any problems being seen.


With all LED bulbs (minus the license plate light) and LED H4's I can run two 90W heated jacket liners at full blast and keep my battery above 13.25V. This was tested at idle so should be more while cruising.

I've done the same thing ref:1156 "PX chipsets" Amber behind clear lenses. TST industries carries the 7-pin LED flasher relay...plug-n-play their p/n RLY7PIN for your LED's. All the lights on my 2013 are LED. I do run warm gear when it gets frosty so it's a plus to have the wattage when you need it.
 

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All LEDs

Details on your configuration?
All my lights are LEDs.

RUNNING AND BRAKE LIGHTS

I swapped out the stock running light/brake bulb for an LED. Don't recall which one.

The LIN3s are attached to a piece of aluminum flat bar which is attached to a piece of aluminum angle which is attached to my topcase rack. See attached photos for reference.

I bought three LIN3s used on Ebay for about $20 each.
I bought the angle and flat bar at Home Depot. Something like this and this.
I bought the flasher on Amazon.
I bought the dimmer from Diode Dynamics.

I am not especially confident when it comes to working on my bike or engaging in DIY projects.
I did the following work with my brothers. We'll do it again for my brother's bike. When we do, I'll try to document the process with photos and video.

a) I cut a piece of aluminum angle and a piece of aluminum flat bar so they would fit between my turn signals.
I used a hack saw. It was not difficult.
The purpose of the flat bar was to lower the lights below my at-the-time topcase lock.

b) I drilled holes in the aluminum angle so I could mount it to the topcase rack.
I also drilled holes in the aluminum angle and flat bar so I could bolt them together.
I used my brother's drill press, but I think the aluminum is soft enough I could have used a handheld drill with an appropriate drill bit.

c) I spray painted the flat bar and aluminum angle black.

d) I bolted the flat bar and aluminum angle together. Stainless steel bolts, nuts, washers throughout.
e) I installed the LIN3s onto the flat bar.
f) I mounted the aluminum angle (and flat bar and LIN3s) to my topcase rack.

g) I wired up the lights with a dimmer and brake flasher unit.

The center LIN3 only activates when the brake is applied. It comes on solid.
The left and right LIN3s are running lights that then brighten and flash when the brake is applied. They flash fast for about 1 second and flash slower for about another second and then go solid.

Vehicles definitely keep their distance when I brake - both when I am stopped and also while I continue to ride at speed.

Here's a crappy 5 second video of the setup in action.
Forgive the crappy camera on my crappy cell phone. Crap indeed.

TURN SIGNALS / PARKING LIGHTS

I replace my stock turn signals and parking lights with LEDs. If I recall correctly I used JDM ASTAR 1156 bulbs for my turn signals. I don't remember what I used for the parking lights.
Also, used this LED blinker genie to convert my front turn signals to running lights.

HEADLIGHT AND AUX LIGHTS

I replaced my stock headlamps with Evitek LEDs.
I added these aux headlights to my engine guards with these mounts.

The headlights and aux lights together provide more light than most cars on the road. There's a bit of bleed from my headlights and aux lights and I aim them fairly high, but vehicles moving in the opposite direction do not flash their brights at me in complaint.
 

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I have replaced all my 1156 & 1157's with JDM AStar led bulbs and am extremely happy with them. They are something like 1200 lumens. Doubt the people behind me like them but I don't have any problems being seen.


With all LED bulbs (minus the license plate light) and LED H4's I can run two 90W heated jacket liners at full blast and keep my battery above 13.25V. This was tested at idle so should be more while cruising.
Would you mind providing links to the specific lights you purchased for each?
 

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I have the Givi E460 case and installed the E92 brake light kit with a BackOff XP in mode 2. That 4 LED strip in the E460 makes a massive difference in visibility. Impossible to miss my brake indication unless you're simply not looking.

That being said, I love the idea of replacing the stock bulbs with brighter LEDs, with the added benefit of saving power for other addons.
 

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After performing much to much reading on the subject of LEDs, the biggest concern appears to be the dual stage brightness delta between parking and brake brightness on LED brake lights.

For those of you with LED brake lights, can you comment on that? Or better yet, provide videos or pictures showing the brightness of each? If you have a link to the lights you purchased, that would be helpful too.

I just received my LED 1156 turn signal lights. I think I may have blinded drivers around town last night every time I engaged the turn signal :grin:
 
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