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I hope I am not causing trouble here, especially since I rarely post. I just received my Race Tech emulators and fork springs from Blair at SV Racing. Great service, very fast shipping. After reading the instructions from Race Tech and a couple of hours on this site, my old brain is confused.
Emulators; blue spring? 1.75 turns out?
Fork oil; 10wt or 15wt?
Damper rod; 6 holes and braze the upper hole?
Springs; spacer length?
Any help would be appreciated or point me to the most sucessful thread.
I weigh 160 lbs and ride a 2004 DL 650 with 43,000 miles. I am installing an Elka on the back. Thanks in advance, John in PDX
 

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After reading and reading I went 1 3/4 turns, 15w, 6 holes - did not braze the rebound hole shut, .95 springs where new spacer + new spring = same length as standard spacer + standard spring. I weigh 172, have Wilbers shock and 100% on-road. Both front and rear compress and rebound equally and at the same rate when I alternately sit or stand over the bike - minor miracle in my eyes! Plush ride and handles better than it has a right to.

Bill
 

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John, if you haven't figured out your setup, I would suggest the blue spring, 1.5 turns in from first contact, 10wt oil and enough spacer to give 20 mm of preload (so that when spring and spacer sit in the fork leg and you place the fork cap on top, the underside of the cap rim is 20 mm over the top of the fork). I would follow the directions on the instructions about the holes - six near the bottom of the damper rod, leave the rebound hole as is, IIRC.

(Does anyone know where are people getting the idea to braze the rebound hole shut? What's the thinking there?)
 

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I'm also very interested in this RT setup info. I just purchased a DL650 that had the gold valves and .90 springs in the forks. (I weigh 220 and don't know if this will be enough spring)

My rebound tubes do not have the small rebound hole welded shut and the valves have the yellow spring on it.

What does RT say about which spring to use on the valve body? What is the best way to determine the preload on this colored valve spring?

... BTW, sorry if this is highjacking the thread a little...:mrgreen:
 

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I've not yet braised....which is probably why I've never considered getting a mod where I would have to do such a thing....
 

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No need to braze, you can rivet the hole shut. I can't recall off the cuff the rivet size (3/32?), but it fits perfectly.

cheers,
 

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Yes, DO plug the rebound holes. With the holes open, the rebound is too quick when the suspension is deeper in the stroke and it makes things weird. Remember, the rebound hole is actually part of the compression circuit for a fork without the emulator. (been there, done that, thought about that...)

As far as what RT says.... Getting advice from those guys is frustrating and non-productive. I'm sure from their standpoint, they'd rather not say anything so people aren't doing it wrong and get all PO'd, and maybe a legal thing, too. I installed my emulators as drop in stockers and have recalibrated substantially since. I can assure you, there is improvement to be found.

In addition to welding/plugging/brazing (I welded mine), I would suggest all this-

a) While you have the emulator out, add another bleed hole to the emulator valve plate. I added one 3/32" diameter hole and that helps a lot with the small in town sharp hits.
b) Buy the RT blue springs for the emulator ($10) and start with 1 turn of preload. Don't be afraid to go less preload- I ran with 1/4 turn before I added the extra bleed hole and it was still firm. At your weight, I would start at 1/2 turn.
c) Start with 10 wt fluid at 150mm level. (compressed fork with the emulators installed)
d) Have about 10-15mm of preload on the springs (measure how far the fork cap is away from its final installed position without compressing the spring).
e) Before you drop in the emulators, make yourself a wire hook to fish out the emulator valve in the future. SO much easier to bend it just right with the emulator in front of you, rather than guessing and trying to hook it.

Good luck with the project!
 

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Yes, DO plug the rebound holes. With the holes open, the rebound is too quick when the suspension is deeper in the stroke and it makes things weird. Remember, the rebound hole is actually part of the compression circuit for a fork without the emulator. (been there, done that, thought about that...)

As far as what RT says.... Getting advice from those guys is frustrating and non-productive. I'm sure from their standpoint, they'd rather not say anything so people aren't doing it wrong and get all PO'd, and maybe a legal thing, too. I installed my emulators as drop in stockers and have recalibrated substantially since. I can assure you, there is improvement to be found.

In addition to welding/plugging/brazing (I welded mine), I would suggest all this-

a) While you have the emulator out, add another bleed hole to the emulator valve plate. I added one 3/32" diameter hole and that helps a lot with the small in town sharp hits.
b) Buy the RT blue springs for the emulator ($10) and start with 1 turn of preload. Don't be afraid to go less preload- I ran with 1/4 turn before I added the extra bleed hole and it was still firm. At your weight, I would start at 1/2 turn.
c) Start with 10 wt fluid at 150mm level. (compressed fork with the emulators installed)
d) Have about 10-15mm of preload on the springs (measure how far the fork cap is away from its final installed position without compressing the spring).
e) Before you drop in the emulators, make yourself a wire hook to fish out the emulator valve in the future. SO much easier to bend it just right with the emulator in front of you, rather than guessing and trying to hook it.

Good luck with the project!
You are nearly exactly where I am at, (I have the "yellow" spings at 1 turn). You did it scientifically, I did it by "feel". I suspect that we weigh about the same, all geared up.
 

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Black Lab,

Yes, I am very close to your settings.

I took a lot of interest in your extra bleed hole during the discussion from the thread I had started in the 650 room. An additional bleed hole just made very good sense.

About that same time, I did some reading in Race Tech's book- "Motorcycle Suspension Bible" (good reading, btw). Try something first, and then read the instructions, LOL. In that book, they discuss approx three pages about the RT emulators and wouldn't you know- bleed hole sizes is discussed.

Did you read somewhere about drilling the extra hole, or did you think of that yourself?
 

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About that same time, I did some reading in Race Tech's book- "Motorcycle Suspension Bible" (good reading, btw). Try something first, and then read the instructions, LOL. In that book, they discuss approx three pages about the RT emulators and wouldn't you know- bleed hole sizes is discussed.
I was going to buy that book a month ago, but decided against it based on their website and their instruction sheets.
 

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Black Lab,

Yes, I am very close to your settings.

I took a lot of interest in your extra bleed hole during the discussion from the thread I had started in the 650 room. An additional bleed hole just made very good sense.

About that same time, I did some reading in Race Tech's book- "Motorcycle Suspension Bible" (good reading, btw). Try something first, and then read the instructions, LOL. In that book, they discuss approx three pages about the RT emulators and wouldn't you know- bleed hole sizes is discussed.

Did you read somewhere about drilling the extra hole, or did you think of that yourself?
I came to the conclusion that something wasn't quite right with my setup. And, that the solution was beyond the information that is available through Race Tech and also the vendor I purchased the emulators from.

So, (lacking the background you have), I began searching the internet. I came across an article that someone wrote that was experiencing the same "feelings" I had. They drilled another hole in the top plate and explained why. What I read, kind of made sense to me. So, I went down that path.

To answer your question, "No, I didn't think of it myself."

To answer a possible follow up question....... "I can't remember where I found the original article." I know it wasn't here on this forum. It may have been on VSRI, but I don't think so. My thinking is, it may have been connected with an SV-650 forum.

Even with charts, numbers and a well educated engineer, turning "blue-in-the-face", (because they are frustrated with my lack of understanding), there is no possible way that I can be convinced that ANY suspension system can be tuned to cover ALL of the variables that the V-strom is capable of riding, (variables being equated to, different surfaces.).

The proof of that comes within the new Ducati Multi-Whatever. That Adventure bike comes with a "switch" that lets the rider electronically tune the bike's suspension system to the surfaces they are riding on. Why? Because Ducati engineers know that one suspension system cannot handle ALL situations well.

On my bike, I have reached a really good "compromise" for all that I do and I am very happy with what I have.

B.L.
 

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I was going to buy that book a month ago, but decided against it based on their website and their instruction sheets.
I passed on this publication too for exactly the same reason!!!!
 

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The Race Tech Suspension Bible is a pretty good book with a lot of information. But... A lot of the info is dirt bike related and not all that much pertains directly to a V Strom because the V Strom doesn't have the adjustments of a modern dirtbike. That, and a V Strom weighs 450-500 lbs, and only has 6" of travel, and there is only so much that can be done before you hit the compromise zone.

It's kind of annoying that Race Tech doesn't have a set up guide for a V Strom with the emulators. They must sell a ton of the kits, and it isn't like they have never dialed one in.
 

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It's kind of annoying that Race Tech doesn't have a set up guide for a V Strom with the emulators. They must sell a ton of the kits, and it isn't like they have never dialed one in.
This is what annoys me too.I call and talk to their tech.He says try this try this and I still have front end that will rattle your teeth out on rough roads. They surely tested this product don't U think? Or did they just put it out there for US to find what settings works.I wonder if I should pop revit the rebound holes.As I feel that like neither damping or rebound is working. I'm at .95 springs, 10wt at 150mm oil level, blue spring 1turn and two extra small hole drilled in valve.I feel I have NO damping at all.It deos feel any better than when I had 3 turns w/Blue spring.
 

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Just installed RT gold valve this last weekend.
The first ride put a stupid grin on my face that I cant wipe off. Feels like a new bike. Glued to the corners. Have not pounded it on the trails yet.

It was also the first ride after stripping the fairing plastic and the bug eyes off. Naked like.

165 lb rider weight.
RT Linear springs .85 kg
RT Emulator / 2 bleed holes / Blue spring 1.75 turns
6 x compression holes
dampening hole open (not brazed)
10 wt fork oil.

Look forward to tweaking. Had a long talk with a RT Tech and he was adamant not to braze the dampening hole. Felt any tweaks should be with the spring tension, spring type, more bleeder holes drilled and fork oil wt.

Unfortunately here in Ottawa the temperatures have dropped and snow has fallen a few times. The season is coming to a close. Cant ride my favorite trails this week due to the second week of deer rifle season. Not worth pissing a hunter off.
 
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