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Just mounted the Kissan dual-bulb modulator this weekend and it really makes a difference. I purchased the high-beam only modulator for use in intersections, passing and splitting lanes.

Easy install and you really notice it. We'll see this evening if it impacts splitting lanes.

The only odd thing is it makes the high-beam indicator pulse . . .

Next, the "back-off" license plate frame with LEDs
 

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The only odd thing is it makes the high-beam indicator pulse . . .
It's pulsing because the high beams are drawing 120 watts every time they flash on. This is in addition to the 100 watts the low beams normally draw. The wiring harness is a bit anemic and the voltage drop causes the pulsing.

Install the Easternbeaver headlight relay harness and the pulsing will go away. It will give you heavy duty wiring up to the bulb sockets.
 

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It's pulsing because the high beams are drawing 120 watts every time they flash on. This is in addition to the 100 watts the low beams normally draw. The wiring harness is a bit anemic and the voltage drop causes the pulsing.

Install the Easternbeaver headlight relay harness and the pulsing will go away. It will give you heavy duty wiring up to the bulb sockets.
Sounds like a good idea . . . I'll check it out. I'm moving to LEDs for turn signals and brakes so I was planning to reduce my overall draw that way.
 

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Sounds like a good idea . . . I'll check it out. I'm moving to LEDs for turn signals and brakes so I was planning to reduce my overall draw that way.
The Luxeon 5 watt 1157 bulbs from superbrightleds are the way to go for brake lights. They're slightly brighter than stock.

These might be brighter for turn signals, I don't know: LEDS

Turn signal LEDS won't gain you much because they're usually off.
 

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It's pulsing because the high beams are drawing 120 watts every time they flash on. This is in addition to the 100 watts the low beams normally draw. The wiring harness is a bit anemic and the voltage drop causes the pulsing.

Install the Easternbeaver headlight relay harness and the pulsing will go away. It will give you heavy duty wiring up to the bulb sockets.
I doubt very much that the pulsing will go away with the headlight relay. The Hi-beams are modulating and so is the Hi-beam indicator( as it should). The indicator is telling you the Hi-beams are on and modulating as advertised. After dark the Hi-beams will stay lit at full wattage and the indicator will also stay fully lit. There will not be an extra 100 watts of power draw from the Lo-beams while the Hi-beams modulate. Why would there be ? You have selected Hi-beam. The Hi-beams will modulate 4 times per second and the power draw will vary from a low value of 17% to a high value of 80% of full power draw(60 watts per bulb). This will extend bulb life as there is less heat build up and there is no actual on/off of the bulb operation. My SilverStars have been modulating for 2 years now without any failures.
 

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I doubt very much that the pulsing will go away with the headlight relay. The Hi-beams are modulating and so is the Hi-beam indicator( as it should). The indicator is telling you the Hi-beams are on and modulating as advertised. After dark the Hi-beams will stay lit at full wattage and the indicator will also stay fully lit. There will not be an extra 100 watts of power draw from the Lo-beams while the Hi-beams modulate. Why would there be ? You have selected Hi-beam. The Hi-beams will modulate 4 times per second and the power draw will vary from a low value of 17% to a high value of 80% of full power draw(60 watts per bulb). This will extend bulb life as there is less heat build up and there is no actual on/off of the bulb operation. My SilverStars have been modulating for 2 years now without any failures.
+1 that is exactly how the Kissan works. It is one of the best pieces of equipment I have bought.
 

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I have the harness and modulator (Diamond Star) from Jim at Eastern Beaver. My high beam indicator does not flash when the high beams are modulating.
 
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