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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I went to their website and punched in my bike & it spit out the 20W-D. So I went on fleabay and found a two pack for $90. My plan was to sell the extra bulb in the classifieds here for $40 which is lower than any price I could find for a single bulb. Anywhoo,........... my evil plan ran aground when the bulbs arrived today.....they are single filament and it immediately goes to flashing brake mode when the key is turned on and do nothing when the brake is applied(the oem 1157 works perfect). I am going to return them, but I know some inmates here are running the "right" bulb, I just need to know which one it is....anyone?

Also this is the dual contact bulb like a 1157 and are Halogen...NOT led, so I am confused as to why it does not work.
 

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That is pretty much the only one for our bikes. The lamp is a single filament, it is just dimmer for tail light only, then brightens for the brake. It sounds like the wiring to the tail / brake is reversed. Have there been any modifications to the bike's wiring? I don't know if it's possible, but could you have installed the bulb backwards (turned 180 deg)? I have one that has worked perfectly in three different bikes.

BTW, I wouldn't bother with the LED. They throw all the light straight out and therefore don't illuminate the whole lens, which requires light to hit the reflector all around, so it appears to be much dimmer than the incandescent. At least that was my experience with their LED replacement for the halogen, and it appears the non-replaceable LED would be the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have a Rostra electronic cruise control wired in and I know the Rostra does not like led's on the brake circuit but I don't see how it would adversely affect the halogen Kisan. So Kisan uses electronics to make a single filament bulb act like a dual? If that's the case I am stumped as to what is causing the Kisan to stay in brake light mode only.
And no, you can't install a 1157 base backwards because the locating pins are offset.
 

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I wonder if the CC is feeding some voltage back through the brake line. Might not be enough to light a bulb, but could be enough that would trigger the electronics in the Tailblazer. Might only take a low-voltage, low-current signal to confuse it.

You could check that wire with a multi-meter for stray voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I wonder if the CC is feeding some voltage back through the brake line. Might not be enough to light a bulb, but could be enough that would trigger the electronics in the Tailblazer. Might only take a low-voltage, low-current signal to confuse it.

You could check that wire with a multi-meter for stray voltage.
Ok, will do. At least I used a Posi-tap at the brake line for the Rostra, I can disconnect it pretty easy and test it. I guess I outsmarted myself...didn't want to wire in a brake light modulator and thought "the tailblazer is just plug and play"....{sigh}
 

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Pending the results of your testing, if it does turn out to be a low-current stray voltage, it may be possible to install a resistor from the brake wire to ground to bleed it off. That would take some calculating to get the proper wattage vs. resistance, and then maybe some experimenting to make sure it doesn't interfere with the Rostra. I would like to hear comments about this from someone who knows more about it before you actually try to implement it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Didn't get a chance to look at it today. But, a synapse finally fired and I remember on my '07 DL it already had a Kisan signal minder on it when I bought it. When I installed the Rostra on that bike, it would engage, then immediately shut off which is the same symptom of having led lights on the circuit. The solution there was to install a relay which fixed the issue of the Rostra. So I wonder if a relay will also work in reverse, isolating the Tailblazer from the Rostra? I'll update when I know something............
 

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A relay should work. I'm assuming the relay would be on the cruise control side so as not to introduce more complexity into the brake light circuit. In that case the relay would fire from the brake light wires, and the CC wiring would connect to the relay contact. You could actually use the + brake wire to feed positive to the relay contact for the cruise, so you wouldn't need to run any additional wiring for battery + or ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
G-Dub, you get the cookie...when I disconnected the Rostra purple wire(cold side of the brake switch) the Tailblazer worked perfect. The hot side disconnect made no difference. I'll pick up a relay and get this issued fixed...thanks for the help!
 
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