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Discussion Starter #1
Picked up my new-to-me 05 Wee (in speedy red) this afternoon. Yay! :hurray:

It almost stranded me after a stop, though, when the key wouldn't turn to let me unlock the forks. Yes, I was pushing down and turning. After about 5 minutes of working, it just slipped in and worked. Gave it a healthy dose of WD-40 at home, and later used the fork lock with no problem.

Issue one: The key still will not turn past lock to park.

A riding friend (who has a DL1000K3 in his stable) suggested replacing the mechanism.

Anyone else had that experience?

Issue Two: Only one ignition key came with the bike and the key code wasn't recorded anywhere. How do I go about getting a spare key made?
 

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Issue one: The key still will not turn past lock to park.
I have a vague feeling from somewhere in the past that some models don't go to the park position. It's a pain anyway. All it does is leave your tail light on to flatten the battery. I'd be thankful about not needing to worry whether you left it in park.


Issue Two: Only one ignition key came with the bike and the key code wasn't recorded anywhere. How do I go about getting a spare key made?
In Australia you would just go to a locksmith or a hardware store (Lowes or similar) and get a new one cut by them copying the existing key. Over here they carry blanks for most motorcycle and car brands.
 

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I believe the blank for the key is an S18. The usual box stores did not have the blank but a local locksmith did.
 

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The Key bank is:

ilco, X241, SUZ18

I think it cost me about $6 to get one cut at the local Locksmith. Had the blank in stock and took about 5 min.

Hope this Helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the key blank info. Just what I needed.

The ignition seems to be cooperating for now; I'll see how it goes. Although the bike is in good shape and had maintenance done recently (in terms of miles ridden since the maintenance), my impression is it hasn't been ridden a lot in the past couple years, which might explain the mechanism's recalcitrance.
 

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recalcitrance.
:hurray:

I love a well placed unusual word. That's a winner. After a steady diet of losers, not loosers, like breaks instead of brakes, a good word deserves recognition.
 

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I have the same issue on my 07. Was told by the dealer never to use wd-40 as it can attack the plastic in the cylinder. I did get some graphite lock lube and it did help but still gets stuck. Getting a new cylinder from the dealer will result in carrying a second key as they can not get the cylinder keyed the same even if you have the code.
 

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How bout that Dupont Multi Lube? Wax based, does not attract dirt, all purpose...might do well?
 

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My 2011 has a mildly annoying reluctance to accept the key on occasion. Once the key is in the mechanism its about as precise as the lock on a well frequented public restroom door.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Getting a new cylinder from the dealer will result in carrying a second key as they can not get the cylinder keyed the same even if you have the code.
Why would there be a need for a 2nd key? Wouldn't the new key supersede the old one?

My 2011 has a mildly annoying reluctance to accept the key on occasion. Once the key is in the mechanism its about as precise as the lock on a well frequented public restroom door.
This does not fill me with confidence. :-/

I love a well placed unusual word. That's a winner. After a steady diet of losers, not loosers, like breaks instead of brakes, a good word deserves recognition.
Aww, shucks. You'll turn my head, GW.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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You would have to change the ignition, gas cap and seat lock as a set for one key to work. Oh, and change the helmet lock on the DL1000.
 

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Remember this trick I learned on the forum when I bought my new '07 Wee--cut the beaded rim off a plastic 35 mm film container (remember those?), and it will slip fit perfectly over the ignition cylinder to protect it from the weather when you have to park in the rain.

I have one with me whenever I ride. The ignition cylinder will last as long as the bike.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong but I think I read the ignition lock has a storm flap/ cover. It's the stainless stamped part that can rotate independently of the key cylinder. Sometimes mine gets a little out of alignment or rotated 180 degrees so the key is difficult to insert.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You would have to change the ignition, gas cap and seat lock as a set for one key to work. Oh, and change the helmet lock on the DL1000.
Realized that after I sent the reply. Let's chalk it up to a distinct sense of timing.

The locksmith at work told me to never ever use WD40 in locks. He said use a good graphite lube with a dry base.
But graphite is conductive. Seems like that's not the best solution for an keyed electrical switch.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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A locksmith at work told me graphite is a solid that can pack in and cause problems. He used WD40. There have been other threads on the subject. The only thing that is clear is locksmiths disagree.
 
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