StromTrooper banner

1 - 20 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Greetings,

I just received the Kaoko throttle lock form the folks at Twisted Throttle. Reading the instructions it says the throttle sleeve may need to be moved out to create 2mm of the bar to be recessed inside the grip. Makes sense to me so the unit has something to squish and hold the throttle. It also reads "some throttle and switch assemblies may be pinned." "Remove the pin to allow the assembly to slide".
Before I rip and tear doing damage where is the pin located. In the bar or switch housing? Does it go into the bar or across the bar in a slot? I could not find any exploded diagrams and the parts "Fische" only shows a switch assembly.

Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
there is a little pin on the inside of the bottom half of the switch housing. It fit's into a little hole in the bottom of the handle bar. I ground mine off - but I wish I hadnt. I could not get the Kaoko to fit inside my handle bar, and now my vista cruise does not hold the grip as solidly as it should.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
I ground mine off - but I wish I hadnt. I could not get the Kaoko to fit inside my handle bar, and now my vista cruise does not hold the grip as solidly as it should.
Drill and tap where the pin was for an appropriate sized set screw and you have a pin again. Probably also done by just drilling and JBWelding a pin in if you can find an appropriate size. Section of nail?

Why would the Kaoko not fit? I was planning on getting a Kaoko as I like the one I put on my Wife's Versys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Drill and tap where the pin was for an appropriate sized set screw and you have a pin again. Probably also done by just drilling and JBWelding a pin in if you can find an appropriate size. Section of nail?

Why would the Kaoko not fit? I was planning on getting a Kaoko as I like the one I put on my Wife's Versys.
Yeah I have been thinking about a set screw. I will come up with something. I could not get the Kaoko to go inside the bar. Just a hir too big. Someone on this forum advised to take a dremel to the inside of the bar and grind it down a bit right at the edge. I did that, but not very much. I set it aside to come back to later. That was probably 3 months ago. I guess it's "later" now. :yesnod:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advise and warning. I found the Peg. It IS part of the lower switch housing. You can even remove it so you can more easily grind it off.
However with the information supplied I am going to first see that the Koako does fit.
One more question. The instructions provided say to use the large plastic washer between the throttle lock and the bar end. The washer has a step in it. Does the step face to the bars or the Kaoko unit?
These included instructions are as bad as the Suzuki OE instructions or worse.

Thanks for the input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I did remove the lower part of the switch housing. The "Pin" the instructions refer to is a removable block with the pin cat into it. I can understand the concerns here. Suzuki probably added the pin to keep the switch housing from rotating or moving in any way. However I see 2 solutions.
1) Cut the pin and add a small piece of carpet tape to hold the switch housing when it is all reassembled.
2) The instructions say to move the switch housing/grips out to allow for 2.5 mm recess with the bars. That way the friction wheel will have room to squish against the grip and hold it. WHY NOT remove the grips to get clear access to the end of the bar and remove 2.5 mm from THE BAR. No pin removal required.

There is a 3rd option that would work best and needs to be address by Kaoko. The included friction washer needs a big enough step/recess to compensate for the spacing requirement.

I will probably go with plan 2 after I think it through to be sure there are no hidden pitfalls.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
I also opened up the switch housing, removed the block, and ground off the small plastic pin with a Dremel on my workbench, then reinserted the block. So far the housing does not seem to be sliding on the bar despite no longer being pinned. I was able to install the throttle lock but have mixed feelings about it, as it is too easy to accidentally rotate on with the edge of your hand when not intended, occasionally creating throttle surprises in mid-corner for example. I don't do a lot of long distance/freeway, so have not really tested it fully yet as a cruise-control substitute. If you later want to uninstall the throttle lock and re-install the swtich housing pin, it is not sold as a separate part, you have to buy the whole switch assembly (about $85 at cheap cycle parts), or try to fabricate a new pin as discussed above.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
but have mixed feelings about it
Let me know when it hits the second hand stand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
This is the follow up on my original post. Studying this as much as I could there are pitfalls to each possible solution.
1) Following choice number 1 may allow for the housing to move. If that were to happen I could replace the housing. That would be $80+ and the need to follow the wiring all the way down to the connector. More work than I really want to do.
2) Removing material from the end of the bar means I can never go back to the stock bar end weight. The hand guards won't fit correctly and the necessary clearance for the grip to rotate will cause binding.
3) Another possibility is to drill another hole. However 2.5mm spacing means there is no hole but ends up being a slot and the switch housing may still slide in the newly created slot when the pressure of the Kaoko unit is applied.

If anybody has additional thoughts and solutions put them down here.

Thanks all.:confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
My email to Kaoko:

"to [email protected]
I have previously installed your product on my wife's 2009 Kawasaki KLE650 Versys and have been satisfied with the product on that bike. I actually prefer your product to the more expensive Throttlemeister I have on my Kawasaki Concours. I now own a 2013 Suzuki DL650 V-Sstrom and I'm considering an installation of your product on it also. However, there are some concerns fairly well outlined in the popular Stromtroopers forum. Here is the forum thread if you would like to address the topic: http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-2012/153289-kaoko-fitment-question.html#post1745113 .

I agree with the thread poster that suggests that providing a proper friction washer for the bike would be a preferred solution, rather than removing the locator pin on the controls.
Anxiously awaiting your response."

I instantly received an autoresponder message stating "Thank you for your email. We will respond to your enquiry within 1 business day."

Lets see if that was worth the effort.

-----------------------------------------------------------------
edit:
I quickly received a CC from Kaoko:

"HI Johan

Please have a chat to Roy about this and follow up with the customer as soon as you can.

Thank you


Kind Regards

Nicolas Mentis"

Looks promising!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
HI All.

I will try to address a few of the questions and concerns here is I can.

The 2.5mm adjustment is not a definite. It depends if the bars were drilled and set on a Monday or a Firday. 2.5mm is a "tolerance" For the same of affordability and to reduce confusion the spacer was designed to fit the widest range of bikes. If Kaoko had 3 spacers in the bag it would be more expensive and generate more questions and less installations.

If you do end up drilling another hole in the bars and creating a slot the pressure of the throttle lock would push the control to the edge that it is already seated against.

If you do have to open the set hole the handlebars a few simple methods I would suggest -
  1. A round file "walked" in the direction you have to go
  2. Use a step bit to walk in the direction you have to move the hole.

I want to stress that in many cases you will nnot have to make any adjustments.

Someone mentioned to potential to accidentally lock the throttle during normal operation. Included with the throttle lock is a tiny allen wrench. Stow that somewhere on the bike. This is used to adjust the "drag" on the cog that applies pressure to the end of the throttle tube. You can increase the drag by tightening the small set screw in the the cog.

I can expend on any of these points. I just wanted to shoot a quick overview based on the info I just caught in a brief read.

Kevin

PS - Sorry I didn't see this sooner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Thanks for the response.
I'm not currently undertaking an installation so I may not have understood the OPs issue correctly, but if he's wanting to move the grip out (or shorten the bar) and he elongated the hole. Wouldn't the pressure of the lock push the pin to the wrong side of the new slot.

I can't imagine a couple of extra spacers increasing the cost of the locks more than 1 or 2 dollars. The throttlemiesters give you several of their metal shim washers to adjust fit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I am impressed with the fast response. Thank you for the e-mail and follow up. I am still of the opinion the index pin in Suzuki's design is important. I can visualize the switch gear rotating the lever inside the hand guard so that I could not grip the brake lever and stop the bike. If the hole is elongated on the bar it is still possible with the pressure exerted by the friction wheel it might push the control housing back to it's original location negating any friction on the grip to hold it. I am suggesting it would push the grip even with the bar end.
I may still just cut off the index pin and if that does not hold the grip I could go back to original by drilling a hole in the pin location and insert a cut to length roll pin.

As I suggested a stepped friction washer with enough of a recess would still be the optimal and safest course of action.

Again thanks for the fast response.
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,103 Posts
I wouldn't worry about the indexing pin. Many people who have replaced the bars just cut the pin off and have had zero problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
I installed my Kaoko throttle lock the other day and didn't have to move anything. Just removed the bar end and installed it. I used the tallest friction washer to ensure is makes good contact with the throttle tube. I have tested it out and it works great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I installed my Kaoko throttle lock the other day and didn't have to move anything. Just removed the bar end and installed it. I used the tallest friction washer to ensure is makes good contact with the throttle tube. I have tested it out and it works great.
Your Kaoko came with multiple washers? Were any of them with a recessed step?
I may walk over to my neighbor and see what he can do with his lathe and milling equipment. I am thinking Delrin round stock may be the material of choice. I will report back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Your Kaoko came with multiple washers? Were any of them with a recessed step?
I may walk over to my neighbor and see what he can do with his lathe and milling equipment. I am thinking Delrin round stock may be the material of choice. I will report back.
Yes, mine came with 4 washers. Three of them are pictured below. The fourth and tallest one is on the bike. I don't think they have a recessed step, but I'm not sure what you mean. I did buy the kit that was designed for use with bark busters, so that may be the difference.

ImageUploadedByMO Free1384482873.694075.jpg


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
So, I wonder if they're supposed to come with assorted size friction washers or not? They certainly should if there is normal variation in Suzuki's production.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
From looking at these throttle locks, they may a few different ones and you do have to read carefully as some are meant to work with hand guards and some are not.

Expanding the slot slightly either in or out, so the throttle grip can move towards the center of the bike ( which will give you some slack at the grip end ) will still allow the pin to perform its function and is a much better fix than just grinding the pin off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
Thanks for the response.
I'm not currently undertaking an installation so I may not have understood the OPs issue correctly, but if he's wanting to move the grip out (or shorten the bar) and he elongated the hole. Wouldn't the pressure of the lock push the pin to the wrong side of the new slot.

I can't imagine a couple of extra spacers increasing the cost of the locks more than 1 or 2 dollars. The throttlemiesters give you several of their metal shim washers to adjust fit.
Sorry, maybe I misread the post. If the OP does in fact have to move the throttle out then yes, the pressure would walk the throttle in the wrong direction. A set screw to the left of the required "pin void" should solve that issue.



I can't imagine a couple of extra spacers increasing the cost of the locks more than 1 or 2 dollars
The spacers are machined Delrin. They are not an "off the shelf solution". There is a little more cost associated with these turned spacers. Cost is not the only reason though.

In particular, Kaoko is not a fan of waste. We had approached this subject once with them. They are especially sensitive to waste and the idea of packaging an item that with extra components that will be thrown away does not fit into their corporate philosophy. If you buy their throttle locks you will see how minimal the packaging is. That was not done accidentally.

Kev
 
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
Top