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Discussion Starter #1
Lemme start out by saying it sucks to have to trailer your bike home. Its a hard pill to swallow.

To start out:

2007 DL1000 Vee
New Iridium Plugs
New Air Filter
Baffles Drilled and Peashooters removed on the exhausts
10W40 Full Synthetic AMSOIL
Idles at ~900 rpm
22,000 Miles
Valves should be done SOON...

The Bike has been giving me problems in the 3500 - 3700 rpm range, and I've been putting off the TBS and TPS until my new Aux Tank arrives to be plumbed in. But its been doing the common stuff like popping and coughing and and I realize that those issues are common on the Vee and have been mitigating it by running at higher RPMs.

Well yesterday, enroute home after a days ride, stopped at my mechanic's shop to schedule a time to get my rear tire changed because I don't have the time to do it myself. And it was POURING rain. When I went to leave, I took it easy down the street until I got to the secondary highway.

The Bike would generate any power under 6K and sounded like a swollen bag of crap. It was idling rough and finally, I just pulled over, called Larry and got towed home.

When we arrived home, the bike started no problem but at idle, would tend to run a bit rough and cough slightly. I decided to let it dry for the night and will go out this afternoon and see how it runs.

I'm going to start by raising the idle and looking at the plugs and wires.

Any other suggestions besides the TBS and TPS?

C.
 

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I would do a flow test on the Fuel Pump. I would also make sure your TPS is right. As well as do the TBS. Bringing the idle up will not hurt either. With the coughing I would check your boots on your throttle bodies as well.
 

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22,000 Miles
Valves should be done SOON...
Have the valves ever been checked? As far as you know?

I'd get that done first. Plus the TBS. The TPS is not something I'd mess with before doing these first. Usually the TPS either works, with the factory setting, or fails completely.
 

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This may be a long shot, but here goes. My DL1000K9 was sputtering and popping just before I took it in for the 7500 mi service. Tech said the throttle bodies were coming off the cylinders at the boots. Big air gap. If that is your case, rain water intrusion may have enhanced poor cylinder firing.
 

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Personally, since that's a pretty common problem, I'd check for water around the front spark plug. There's a drain hole that lets water out that frequently gets plugged up and allows water to fill the plug area. The result being the exact symptoms you mentioned.
 

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Check if the TB boots are loose first
.
 

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Personally, since that's a pretty common problem, I'd check for water around the front spark plug. There's a drain hole that lets water out that frequently gets plugged up and allows water to fill the plug area. The result being the exact symptoms you mentioned.
+1. I don't believe in coincidences. $10 says water got (or stayed) someplace it shouldn't.
 

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Idle at 900 is also way too low, kick it up to about 1100.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So,

Being new to Strom ownership and previously NOT having a service manual made me the master of my own demise. I pulled the beast apart tonight and found that I had pinched the front plug wire behind the rad, didn't have the "triangle" pointed in the proper direction AND found out that some idiot threw out the Air Cleaner Gasket when he changed the Filter Element. I also managed to clean out the Spark Plug Drain hole as well. I couldn't tell if it was dirty or not, but it is done.

Learning Process, right?

I'll order a new gasket tomorrow, re-install the plug wires and silicone seal them. When the new gasket arrives, I'll do the TBS and check the TPS.

If that doesn't solve my issues, it looks like I'll be ordering a PCIII from SV Racing because there is not one dealer in Nova Scotia or New Brunswick that will admit to owning a Yosh Box.

I also checked it Idle again and its hitting about 1200 rpms. So that's good too.

I'll post more progress as the week goes on.

C.
 

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AND found out that some idiot threw out the Air Cleaner Gasket when he changed the Filter Element.
Oh, not good. That can destroy an engine very quickly. I'd run 4 years and 40,000 miles on a single oil change before I'd run 100 miles without a proper air filter and seal. No kidding. :(

Good luck. I hope it turns out ok.
 

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If you need the gasket let me know if they don't sell them separate I have two hanging in the garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Its starting to come back together...

Its starting to come back together...and this is what I've found.

1.) The Air Filter Gasket. Its been replaced. This dough-head won't make that mistake again.

2.) Spark Plug drain hole. Cleared out. Now part of my regular maintenance.

3.) Pinched Plug wire. Don't know if it was an issue, but now the plug boots are sealed with silicone and the wires have been treated with silicone spray.

4.) Front Vacuum Port Plug cap was rotten :jawdrop: and full of holes. Now replaced.

I'll be doing my Valves and TB Sync over the next couple of nights and will have her all buttoned up and ready to go.

Hope this ends all my issues....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think its fix't!!!

So, I went for a scoot last night to warm up the beast for the TBS.

With the fixes I made, the hesitation at 3500 rpm, while still there is barely noticeable. I performed the TBS and there was a big discrepancy in one cylinder. It took some friggin' and fartin' but finally it went into sync and I'll be going for a test ride tonight if the weather cooperates.

Oh, the things I'll know for next time!
 

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I took the vacuum ports and connected vacuum tubes and lead them back near a battery. They are plugged together which may help balance an idle


I could check sync without even removing the tank.
 

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I took the vacuum ports and connected vacuum tubes and lead them back near a battery. They are plugged together which may help balance an idle


I could check sync without even removing the tank.
If you want to confirm that the drain hole was plugged, just pull the plug and you will see an actual water line on it at the corresponding angle and depth of the water/dirt mix. Ask me how I know. Mine was a light gray color but not high enough to foul/short the plug. An air nozzle with a fine narrow outlet can blow them out quickly if you remove the lower plug to get access.
I'm not sure it's OK to actually connect the two vac lines together.:fineprint:
 

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I'm not sure it's OK to actually connect the two vac lines together.:fineprint:
No its not

I had a similar problem with mine and turned out the spark plug socket catch had worn away so I wouldn't get spark until I was above 4.5K then all the fuel in the cylinder would ignite and the bike would just rocket off for a second.

so check that wire and make sure you didn't brake the wire inside and if the spark plug doesn't latch tight buy a new end they are only $15.00.
 
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