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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #21
Pump reinstall finished. Tested pump - runs smoothly and moves a LOT of gas! Will do a more precise test later. No leaks so far.

I began crafting my replacement fuel line (pump outlet to fuel rail input). Originally I wanted to sit the inline filter under the rear tank support, but I don't see how that can work. The fuel hose isn't flexible enough to make the small-radius turn that would be required.
 

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Pump reinstall finished. Tested pump - runs smoothly and moves a LOT of gas! Will do a more precise test later. No leaks so far.

I began crafting my replacement fuel line (pump outlet to fuel rail input). Originally I wanted to sit the inline filter under the rear tank support, but I don't see how that can work. The fuel hose isn't flexible enough to make the small-radius turn that would be required.
The wix 33095 can fit to the left of the engine, inline with the original fuel hose. That's how I did it. I also put some heat insulation around the filter for peace of mind.
The only negative is that it takes more time to replace the filter when the time comes.

Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #23
You read my mind! That's a big reason I changed my mind and got the Wix filter - it's much more compact than either of the NAPA Gold filters I looked at.

I was also thinking of doing heat-shielding on the filter. On my car the inline filter is protected by the frame and well away from the engine. Here, the filter is going to be right above the hottest parts of the engine.

I don't think there's any getting around the inconvenience of swapping the filter. It's going to require a tank lift at the very least. I end up doing those at least once a year anyway, though.

FWIW just like Blaustrom and others said, the Dorman 800-081 quick connects do fit perfectly on the fuel pump output and fuel rail input ports. I got some more because I didn't see any point in taking apart my perfectly good factory fuel line. I used FI clamps at the new hose's ends, to make sure the connection doesn't leak.

Does no one make a quick-connect style fitting that will attach to the inline filter itself? I spent a good hour at an auto parts store trying to find out. We couldn't come up with anything for filters with a 5/16" inlet & outlet diameter. The barbs on the filter are just different enough from those on the bike itself (fuel pump & rails) that the GM/Chrysler style clips will not work.
 

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Doing all that when the pump is probably the real problem to start with. Not any different then the car pumps that get weak over time. Plus let’s hope you don’t get anything in the line to the injectors or you’ll need to clean the filter on them too.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
No, my fuel pump is fine.

There's no filter on the Vstrom fuel injectors. Fuel filtering is all done inside the fuel pump/filter assembly. There's a strainer pad for low pressure (low demand), and a more conventional type filter for high pressure (high demand) flow. Unfortunately, the HP filter is built into an assembly that can't be purchased separately or for reasonable cost. That's why this mod exists.
 

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One random factoid I'll toss in here FWIW:

My Vee is wearing the larger 3023 filter.

If you waltz into a Napa and ask for a 3023 fuel filter for your motorcycle, results vary. You'll get some level of static and may even be denied access to proper fuel filtration. I've seen parts monkeys get pretty upset that I'm in their auto parts store looking for motorcycle parts (yes, really...).

But if you ask for a fuel filter to fit the 2004 Nissan XTerra (either the I4 or V6 engine; same filter) you just remembered you had, your results will be a lot better.

And as noted, you have to be friendly but very firm in order to ensure you get actual fuel injection rated hose and the proper solid fuel injection clamps. Some parts monkeys have no idea there's any difference.

It takes some twiddling and practice, but you can cross-reference part numbers and such using the tools on RockAuto.com . They sell parts, too...


One other caveat to note: the Nissan Xterra is a fuel-injected vehicle, and so the larger 3023 fuel filter is rated for fuel injection pressures, and has a finer filter suitable for keeping fuel injectors happy.

The smaller filter, the Wix 33095, was used in carbureted cars (1989 Chrysler Fifth Avenue I think is the latest), and so is not intended for fuel injection pressures. Plus, it may not filter as finely as a fuel injection filter.

That said, lots of Vees are using this filter and so far no one's crotch has erupted in fire (or at least no one has mentioned it). It's made of metal and seems pretty strong.


Also, individual fuel injectors do contain a teensy filter at the end that plugs into the fuel rail. It's sort of the last line of defense for the injector innards. This filter is removed and replaced when an injector is rebuilt.
 
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Discussion Starter #27
I guess I got lucky. The NAPA near me was very helpful, and never once insisted I had to tell them a vehicle make, model, or year.

If anything, they were as frustrated as I was that there was no obvious way to look up filters by fitting type/size vs. vehicle.

Zero problems getting FI hose. I already had FI clamps, from back when I replaced the piece of pipe between the fuel rails.

Maybe that's just an especially good NAPA location. They've certainly earned a customer, even though the only thing I ended up using from them was the FI hose.

I ordered the Wix filter & Dorman 800-081 through O'Reilly online, because they were the only nearby store selling both.

Staff at the Autozone down the street are used to me trying to adapt automotive-world things to my wacky motorcycle projects.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
FWIW, the Wix 33095 does filter to 11 microns. This is actually a better rating than the NAPA Gold 3023.
 

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As usual right after posting I can't find it, found most of the info.

Needed fuel hose is 5/16" ID.

Considering a Napa 3023 instead of 3012. Finer filtering, though of course costs more accordingly. Still under $30.
Can you post the link to the article(s) you found? Also anything you can share with regards to the testing procedure for the fuel flow testing.
 

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Google is your friend! Just search for … fuel flow test stromtrooper …. and you will find all you need.

And if you take the trouble and read post # 3 and go to the linked thread you will find even more info.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
There are at least a few ways to get the fuel pump to run for a test.

The procedure in the service manual is overly complicated, I think.

The popular and easiest quick test is to hook up the fuel pump outlet to a piece of hose, directed into a suitable container. Then turn the key on, and the "Run" switch to "Run." The ECU will automatically turn the pump on at full blast for a few seconds, I think 10 seconds per go.

You do that 3 times, that gives you a volume based on 30 seconds of pumping, you can draw some conclusions.

This method has the advantage of allowing you to leave everything hooked up, except of course that you must lift the tank enough to get the pump disconnected from the line that goes forward to the rails.

Another method: what I did, shortly after reinstalling my bypass-equipped fuel pump in the tank.

-Connect battery positive terminal to power input (+) of fuel pump plug (yellow and red wire)

-Connect negative battery terminal to a handy grounding spot on the bottom of the fuel pump. I used the little nut that holds the ground wire (black w/white stripe) against the bottom of the fuel pump assembly.

-Pump will run and move fuel. I directed it into a graduated container so I could measure volume easily.

-Run pump for about 30 seconds.

With a fully-charged and healthy battery, the ~13V supplied is plenty to run the pump.

Normally, with the engine running, the pump would get more like 14.5V, but I can't say whether it flow more fuel with more voltage, since the engine won't run if it's not getting gas. :)

-
 

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Discussion Starter #32
My Vee is wearing the larger 3023 filter.
How? There is just no room for it.

Certainly not next to the throttle bodies. The smaller Wix fits but just barely.

There's room under the tank support arch for the huge NAPA filter, but then no way for the fuel line to make the required turn. Not without buying $20 worth of fittings anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Quick flow test with the Wix 33095 filter: 375 mL. That's nearly quadruple what I was getting before the mod.

Wow, I'm probably in for a surprise or two next time I ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Nothing can ever be that easy, apparently.

Started the engine for the first time since I reconnected everything. Red light comes on an FI message in the instrument panel display shortly after startup.

What does that mean and what should I do about it?

No evidence of a fuel leak so far.
 

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when I went through this mod, I did some extensive research on FI rated internal filters. From post #28 on the thread at question before I do the external fuel filter mod this is what I learned about th WIX 33095. It may or may not be correct, but it is what I learned:

Wix 33095 (1.4 inch O.D.). The Wix website does not identify a bursting pressure for this filter. The Summit site does not indicate it is EFI rated. However, in the list of applications on the Wix site, this filter is used in-line for Arctic Cat’s fuel injected snowmobiles.

Quick flow test with the Wix 33095 filter: 375 mL. That's nearly quadruple what I was getting before the mod.

Wow, I'm probably in for a surprise or two next time I ride.
It may not be a surprise, but it will be a noticable and appreciated change. At least it was for me!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Whoopsie, looks like I missed a connection or two. Having trouble finding the pipe that goes to one of them...stand by...
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Ok...I think I reconnected whatever was making the ECU upset. Looks like I left the hose off the airbox temperature sensor (intake air temperature sensor) so it was probably generating invalid/ambiguous data. Oh, and I'd neglected to fully hook the secondary air system back up. D'oh.

I just ran 'er for a minute and no angry red light again. I did have her in dealer mode just in case, and noted that my TPS seems to still be working fine. That's my TPS report.

An unexpected bit of sunshine: I got my Mulletometer hooked up, and the throttle bodies are basically bang-on in sync already. No adjustment needed. Nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Yeah, I just idled her long enough to get up to operating temp (3 bars). No Eye of Sauron. Phew.
 

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FWIW, the Wix 33095 does filter to 11 microns. This is actually a better rating than the NAPA Gold 3023.
Thanks! Good to know.


How? There is just no room for it.

Certainly not next to the throttle bodies. The smaller Wix fits but just barely.

There's room under the tank support arch for the huge NAPA filter, but then no way for the fuel line to make the required turn. Not without buying $20 worth of fittings anyway.
Yep, the larger filter fits under the tank support, no added fittings needed. The filter is in there sort of diagonally, with a couple of large zip ties suspending it in a safe position. I also padded one of the metal edges where the hose might contact with a piece of inner tube rubber zip tied into place.

Now that I describe this, I suppose it sounds really weird. Guess I should get a picture.
 
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It always helps to put a wound spring snugly over the outside (or into the inside) of the hose for tight corners to prevent kinking and restricting flow.
 
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