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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #1
I've struggled to find a Vee fuel filter bypass mod write-up complete with pictures and such info as the inside diameter and needed length of added fuel hose, fittings, etc all in one place. So I guess I'll put it together here as I go.

Why am I doing this? Because my K7 DL1000, which has about 50400 miles, flunked the quick fuel flow test yesterday. Only 150 mL pumped when it should have been twice that. Probably the high-pressure fuel filter is dirty. I'm not paying $200+ for the OEM assembly (not to mention waiting 2 weeks for shipping) so here we are.

It seems a Napa Gold 3012 fuel filter is the right size and has been successfully used for this mod, so I'll use that. It's about $6 locally.

I'd like to replace the big O-ring that seals the fuel pump to the tank. Old one is probably ok but seems worth doing for peace of mind. Except, of course I would take too long to get the OEM parts. Is there a good aftermarket alternative?

Another question I'm trying to answer is the needed size of fuel hose. Several bypass mod discussions mention fuel hose but no one specifies the size. Or at least I can't find it if someone does. This thread will contain that info, once I've figured it out.

Check here for updates as I get going. I've recently found a much easier way to post photos, so that's likely to happen somewhat often.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #2
As usual right after posting I can't find it, found most of the info.

Needed fuel hose is 5/16" ID.

Considering a Napa 3023 instead of 3012. Finer filtering, though of course costs more accordingly. Still under $30.
 

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this should be a good start to assemble all info, again, in one thread. Maybe once done you can ask to get it made into a sticky, if that still exists in the new format.

Here are the parts I used:




NEVA20 Rally: Catskills NY - Cooperstown - Woodstock
Save The Dates: July 31 to August 2, 2020
WWW.NEVA20.COM
NEVA20 - July 31 to August 2, 2020 - Catskills NY - Cooperstown - Woodstock
 

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Are you also going to replace that little bit of fuel line that seems to have so many reported leaks?


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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2,588 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yes, did that a while back, look for post #32 here:


At the time I didn't realize there was a difference between "fuel hose" and "FI-rated fuel hose." I think I got some FI-rated fuel hose by accident though. Hasn't leaked since, and the leftover piece from that job (back in October) looks nearly identical to the FI-rated hose I bought today for the filter bypass job.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, I went shopping and picked up local equivalents @ NAPA:

-2 feet (just in case!) of 5/16" ID FI-rated hose
-Those Dorman 800-081 QC fittings
-I had an assortment of FI hose clamps already, left over from doing the short "fuel pipe" between the throttle bodies back in October.
-I chose a different filter, NAPA 3023. It's not tiny, but it looks like it will fit under the rear fuel tank support.

I'm a little confused by that link for your fuel filter. It looks like a set of 3 filters. Which one did you end up getting?

I'm clearly missing something with the Dorman QC fittings. I can't see how they fit on the inline filter's barbs. The plastic inner clip is too small to go over the barb. Even though the package says they are the right QC hardware for 5/16" / 8mm QC connections, and the NAPA filter states it has 8mm connections. What's the trick?

For now I'm trying to get all the gas out of the tank, so I can safely remove the pump.

Since I've been looking in the tank anyway, I spotted something odd:



It was hard to get a good picture. This is taken looking from the left side of the fuel fill port, looking down toward right side of bike. I'm concerned about the pipe thingy on the right (of bike, away from viewer looking at this photo), down inside the tank. The orange-ish areas look rusty to me. What is that, and should I worry ? Is it part of the tank venting system?
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
One answer discovered: Those Dorman quick connect fittings won't work with the NAPA Gold 3023, 3012, or any other inline fuel filter I could find that has 5/16"/8mm connections.

The internal clip isn't right.

FWIW, the NAPA part number for the Dorman QC elbows (Dorman part number 800-081) is 730-5618. This is a NAPA store-branded version of the Dorman product & appears to be identical. Same style of internal clip - packaging describes it as "GM/Chrylser" style for 5/16 (8mm) connections.

I also tried to find an inline filter that is "for GM/Chrysler" vehicles. No dice. It's practically impossible to search fuel filters that way, the websites always want to know what vehicle the filter is going in, which isn't going to work in this case.

I'll have to install the inline filter using FI clamps. Not as convenient as the QC hardware when it comes time to change the filter, but I shouldn't have to do that very often.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #8
I ended up not actually draining the tank. Too difficult and not entirely necessary.

I tried using a siphon (rubber squeeze bulb type) with the tank on the bike. Nope, couldn't get the tube inside the tank to stay submerged. Tank shape is too weird.

Tank was 90% disconnected anyway. Sighed deeply, removed last few connections, removed tank. Raised rear end so that all the fuel (2.5 to 3 gallons) sloshed to the front.



Siphoned out a little gas, instantly found the Harbor Freight rubber bulb siphon is a leaky piece of junk. Lovely. Quickly realized that since I couldn't see gas through the fuel fill opening, gas wasn't at the level of the pump so I didn't specifically HAVE to drain the tank to remove the fuel pump. Nice.

FWIW, old fuel pump gasket looks perfect. I am not going to replace it. I will apply a little grease upon re-installation, per shop manual.

Some delicate maneuvering required to extract pump from tank without bending anything. Sigh of relief when it all came out intact.

Here's the patient (fuel pump) pre-op:

 

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The Dorman fittings are for the two terminations of the fuel line. The filter has barb fittings for direct attachment of the fuel hose.

I can't remember exactly but I think I used the smallest Golan filter. They have a removable (and cleanable) stainless mesh filter element. Pricy but serviceable and small, so no issues where to locate the filter. Plus my setup made the filter accessible for inspection without lifting the tank.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #10
I see, so you replaced the original fuel hose fittings (at fuel rail and pump outlet) altogether.

I'll recycle the fittings from the original fuel hose then, if possible.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #11
I think I am going to return the NAPA Gold 3023 and get a Wix 33095. It's a bit more compact, and filters just a bit better (10 micron). While being cheaper than the NAPA 3023.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #12
Got the fuel pump/filter assembly apart enough to do the needed drilling.

Some illustrative photos:



Close-up of the "pre-op" photo from before. I had to snip the small reddish zip-tie at center, so I could free the fuel gage mechanism's wiring. I don't know whether ordinary zip-ties are rated for immersion in gasoline, or there's some kind of special "fuel injection grade" zip ties...no one's mentioned this in the walkthroughs I've seen so far. Maybe it's OK to leave that wire loose? Could be that the zip tie was just there to keep the wire out of the way during manufacturing.

That shiny round thing at upper left is the fuel pressure regulator. It doesn't strictly need to be removed for this procedure, but can be pulled out once the white plastic clip around it is pried off.


Pump & filter assembly with fuel gage mechanism partially removed (float is the black round thingy at right).

Does anyone know how to remove the high-pressure filter assembly (which is inside the housing, nearest the camera) in a non-destructive way? It looks like it's glued in there (seam near top).

See those two leads at the bottom, with the black & white wrap? Black is power for pump, white is power for fuel gage mechanism. There's an additional lead around the side that provides ground for both - pictured later. It must also be disconnected so you can slide the pump/filter assembly out to get at the place you need to drill the hole.

Access to those small nuts isn't great, but they don't require much torque to loosen. Not sure what size they are. I used a miniature adjustable wrench.

Note that these nuts use two lock washers to stay in place, one split ring and one star-type (apologies for the poor focus). Split ring was on top, star was on bottom, with wire terminal sandwiched between:


You've also got to undo the black lead, around the side of the assembly. This wire provides ground for both the fuel pump motor, and fuel gage sensor:


Then you can slide the pump & filter assembly out of the metal base plate.

My low-pressure strainer was kinda dirty. Not terrible, not great:
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #14
I'll amend my earlier comment - it is helpful to remove the pressure regulator from the filter assembly. With pressure regulator removed, it is easier to drain more gas from the high-pressure filter chamber. Makes things less messy while drilling the bypass hole.

Drilling done. No sweat. Did it slowly and carefully, mostly upside-down, to minimize plastic fragments getting inside the HP filter area. Used 11/64" bit.

Fuel pump and gauge sensor is back together. No rush reinstalling it in the tank, as I'm still waiting on my filter and other stuff to come in.
 

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Wow...remind me to not check my fuel flow once I get my bike back together!

Ah, who am I kidding...I'm gonna check it. :)

Thanks for the writeup!
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #16
You're welcome!

I am going to need to check my fuel flow at least once more in the next few months, after I get the modification done. It is often stated that when you do this mod, it tends to free up junk caught in the (built-in, old) high-pressure filter, which then goes into your new inline filter. So you end up replacing the inline filter early.

I have no prob with that money-wise - it's a $6 filter. But, I do want to make it less hassle, if possible.

There are a couple of ways to position the inline filter. Some folks sit it inside the left frame member, under the tank. Some put it under the rear tank support (the big shiny metal arch).

I haven't decided yet which I'll do.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #17
Now that I think about it ...I don't think there's any way around doing a tank-lift at least, to access the fuel pump output.

I wonder if it would be possible to place an inline fitting, for fuel pressure and/or flow testing? In such a way that it would be accessible without a tank lift or removing plastics?
 

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That large NAPA filter is much larger surface area and will likely take a lot of crap to become blocked.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #19
True, though in the meantime I decided to go with a slightly smaller filter (Wix 33095) so I could fit it more easily.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #20
Wix 33095 is here. It's a good bit smaller than the NAPA 3023. Will be easy to tuck away the Wix somewhere.

Re-installing pump in tank.
 
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