[RoadRdr]

I recently bought a new to me 2006 DL1000. I've started adding stuff to it like the EB fuse block and most recently the Givi Trekker 3 piece cases. I've also got a custom seat on order from Baldwin Saddles. I had read some very positive reviews here and after several emails to/from Loren I've ordered a saddle (not a seat).

So, I'm investing a significant amount of money into this bike and planning some trips on it. But I've got that sputter at 3500 RPMs that is pretty annoying. I've watched the video of setting the TPS and am not real confident I can pull that off even if I buy the tools.

My current other bike is a 2002 Honda ST1100 that has been fairly flawless for its 52,000 miles since I bought it in 02. I've used the SK Flow Meter to sync all for carbs on that bike. But I'm not familiar with fuel injection.

My question is... It appears from what I've read that I am in need of the TPS and possibly throttle body sync on the DL. I'm accustomed to doing this type of work myself rather than trust whoever it may be assigned to at a dealership. I'm sure there are some very competent techs out there I just hate to trust my bike to a spin of the roulette wheel.

What is the experience of those who have taken their bike to a dealer for this type of work? Can I count on the job being done right?
If anyone in central/south Jersey has a good dealer to recommend or avoid I'd like to hear that too.

Thanks,
Tom

 

[Scott E. Bonds]

2007 Vee

My dealer put mine on a dyno and tuned it proper with a yosh box. The emisions equipment was also modified by them but left on the bike for later (just in case).

The bike had been previously synced during a valve adjustment and ran like shit still. I never suspected he TPS. The stock mapping on a VEE is WAY too lean. You either yosh it or power commander it. Since I have no intentions of changing any exhaust or intake items I went the yosh route and reburned my mapping. Even with a PC the best results comre from a dyno tune.

Results-

idles properly now, steady as a rock, no drop in RPM when stopping

no 3000 to 3500 hiccups

much better off idle and in transistions

can lug the engine now without the herky jerky crappy stock mapping.
They claimed they got about 7 hp more across the mid to upper rpm range after tuning. I didn't bother looking at graphs, which hurt the techs fealings because I wanted smooth...the bike had plenty of HP. But, I can tell the thing runs stronger...and for a Vee that means something. I would have taken a hit in HP to get smooth.

I went from 42mpg to around 39 mpg but I am thrashing it more now that it responds so well.

Can you tell I was happy with the results.

It is like a new bike. It was done at 48,000 miles and I put 4000 on it since. They cut me a great deal so I do not want to give you the price......but it was worth $300 to $400 to me.

I also had a clogged fuel filter that I back flushed but that wasn't causing my low rpm issue, only a high rpm cut out.