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I installed a K&N filter on my 2008 1000 and I think it may have ran better with the stock filter at low to mid RPM. Could the filter have leaned it out enough to cause a difference? It dosent seam as smooth under 3500
 

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Mine made no noticeable difference.
 

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In an already "lean" situation, more air now means even more lean... Power Commander or Reflash time... Oh, and have you sync'd your TB's? :cheers2:
 

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I noticed no difference on my Wee. Not ever having to buy a new air filter was my reason for swapping it out.

Maybe the bigger bike has issues that the Wee doesn't with regard to K+N air filters...? Perhaps it's flowing more air, and at lower rpm's/speeds it makes a tiny bit more torque than before, and would amplify the Vee's low rpm "issues".
 

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Perhaps it's flowing more air, and at lower rpm's/speeds it makes a tiny bit more torque than before
Impossible.

The throttle is regulating air flow depending on how far you twist your wrist and pull the butterflies open. The air filter has zero effect on air flow until wide open throttle and high rpm--if then (and I don't think the brand of clean air filter makes any difference).
 

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In an already "lean" situation, more air now means even more lean... Power Commander or Reflash time... Oh, and have you sync'd your TB's? :cheers2:
I did a TBS this weekend and it did help a little. I put the stock filter back in and It did help the issue some. TBS 20% filter change 40%. I have been running regular gas and plan to go HI test for the next tank and see if that will help. Maybe Santa will leave a power commander in my stocking this year.
 

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Impossible.

The throttle is regulating air flow depending on how far you twist your wrist and pull the butterflies open. The air filter has zero effect on air flow until wide open throttle and high rpm--if then (and I don't think the brand of clean air filter makes any difference).
Of course it does because these bikes do not have a MAF or a MAP and North American bikes no O2 sensor to regulate pulse width on the injectors. We run on a TPS and it only knows to put a given amount of fuel at a given throttle position. So if one air cleaner flows better and allows more air to pass it will be running leaner. That also hold true if the stock air cleaner is more restrictive, it will allow less air to flow resulting in a richer condition. There is no way for this bike to adjust the air fuel mixture. So that's why people hack into the FI system with a PC111, Yosh boxes, etc.
 

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Hi all,

here something to read about the K&N myth:

Debunking the K&N Myth - Why OEM is Better : Nissan Articles

If you need more reading, search for "airfilters, intake air, intake air siting" on www.Autospeed.com


K&N is expert on marketing!
Reading their website EVERYTHING makes perfect sense and you can convince yourself just right - no problem! Did it myself!

After checking into the above mentioned sites - I woke up!

Okay - the K&N flows what? - 30% more??

When do you really need that flow? Maybe really at the very top of your powercurve - until then your OEM will flow just fine - it is made to flow enough to make that top power.
How many times to you really need that top-end power??
Are you always revving to/past redline??

Once you find out that the airfilter is the least restrictive part in your intake system - "30% better" becomes near meaningless:

How much better flow of the absolute restriction is 30% better on the 2-3% restriction the OEM filter causes?
Or said the other way around: With your K&N you have only 2.1% restriction instead the OEMs 3% ......

Then, if you read in detail: Your K&N has to get quite dirty to even start some decent filtering - meaning, it needs dirt to plug up and so catch more dirt! :)

Last - how many OEM filters can you buy for one K&N?
Besides, IIRR you can clean the OEM to some degree too.....

Today, the only way to filter is to put restriction into dirts way (well, there is other means, but nothing that even would fit on a car, let alone a bike).

I'll go back to OEM and better filtered air...

'nough said,

thjakits:mrgreen:
 

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Hi all,

here something to read about the K&N myth:

Debunking the K&N Myth - Why OEM is Better : Nissan Articles

If you need more reading, search for "airfilters, intake air, intake air siting" on Browser Warning


K&N is expert on marketing!
Reading their website EVERYTHING makes perfect sense and you can convince yourself just right - no problem! Did it myself!

After checking into the above mentioned sites - I woke up!

Okay - the K&N flows what? - 30% more??

When do you really need that flow? Maybe really at the very top of your powercurve - until then your OEM will flow just fine - it is made to flow enough to make that top power.
How many times to you really need that top-end power??
Are you always revving to/past redline??

Once you find out that the airfilter is the least restrictive part in your intake system - "30% better" becomes near meaningless:

How much better flow of the absolute restriction is 30% better on the 2-3% restriction the OEM filter causes?
Or said the other way around: With your K&N you have only 2.1% restriction instead the OEMs 3% ......

Then, if you read in detail: Your K&N has to get quite dirty to even start some decent filtering - meaning, it needs dirt to plug up and so catch more dirt! :)

Last - how many OEM filters can you buy for one K&N?
Besides, IIRR you can clean the OEM to some degree too.....

Today, the only way to filter is to put restriction into dirts way (well, there is other means, but nothing that even would fit on a car, let alone a bike).

I'll go back to OEM and better filtered air...

'nough said,

thjakits:mrgreen:

Just remember to make sure the crap ass filter gasket on the stocker it in place. It is such a fine piece of equipment that both of our DL 1000 air filters were leaking by from the factory. Besides a couple of cleanings of my K&N and I am money ahead.

Run whatever you would like. I am certain there are many on this forum that agree with you. But I have yet to see a post that states I have a K&N filter on my vstrom and it died. There is at least one of those here for the stock filter set up.
 

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when my bike came back from repairs from the crash my k&n was filthy and i mean flithy cleaned reinstalled ,oil filter, semi syn oil and bingo ..cheap service...just one more expensed saved..at 62,876 klms servces are vital.
 

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I don't run a K&N for performance at all. It was simple really... My local shop was selling the OEM paper filter for almost as much as a fully reusable K&N. So instead of buying filter after filter, I just reuse and I'm good.

As for flowing more air making a lean condition even worse, YES it certainly can. Anyone that thinks it can't has no clue about our fuel injection systems on motorcycles. Every bike I've ever cleaned up the air tract on, has gotten much leaner. Not just one, or two, but EVERY one of them. Oh yeah, this was verified on most of them by means of a sniffer on a dyno, but what the heck does that thing know?!?!? LOL
 

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I believe a K&N is fine when serviced correctly.....

How long before the oil goes away, I don't know. So I don't know when to trust it, especially on a bike I might/do ride on dusty roads, or winter salt etc.

I got more air by leaving the snorkel off. Sounds like a very mad giant Briggs and Straton, if I am lucky I can trap some squirrels or small birds. Having come from true superbikes I don't think trying to squeeze more a out of a Vee is a purposeful task.

My cheapness has me brush off the stock filter and then vacuum it. If I was really cheap I might make a tin one that accepts a stock car filter

ride enjoy repeat
 

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Run the oil you want to run.
Run the oil filter you want to run.
Run the air filter you want to run.
Run the tires you want to run.
Run the chain you want to run.

Let others do the same.
 

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I ride a 2010 DL1000 in Pakistan where finding aftermarket and OEM parts is difficult so these mostly need to be ordered with offshore suppliers. The previous owner had a K&N filter in the bike. Over the course of 5 months that I have owned the bike, I am experiencing a growing back fire through the air box between 2500~4000 RPM range. I have not found any vaccum leaks on the throttle body boots / sync nipples etc. I recently washed the filter and had it reoiled only to make the matter worse. Could it be that the K&N is leaning out the air fuel mixture causing the back fire which normally start occurring only once the motor has warmed up to 2 or 3 bars.
While I wait for an OEM style paper filter to arrive through the mail, I have been wondering if I can improvise to make the current set up less lean. May sound stupid, but can adding a thin layer of foam on the top side of the K&N filter can perhaps reduce the air flow and make the mixture less lean. Any suggestions? Also it is off topic here, but can using a higher octane fuel reduce the backfiring I am experiencing. BTW, the TB's are fairly synced.
Thanks
 

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maybe people should make informed choices. dirt bikers tried k and n early on and found that they didn't filter well until they were pretty dirty.
on dirt bikes where filtering dirt is important they use only oiled foam. somewhere some company that uses off road machinery tried k and n filters and went back to their previous paper filters.
I will use what I believe filters best.
 
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