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And does it sound great! Took about an 1 1/2 hours to do, most time consuming part was getting them to look even on both sides. I ended up leaving the spacers off since they were different sizes. I used copper gasket stuff on the new pipe joints and left the little stickers on, but I think they will come off because one of the brackets covers part of the sticker on each side.
I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes to "reset" the computer (don't know if that really works, but I read it somewhere and figured why not). I then went for a 20 minute ride and she still runs great, no popping or surging at all (I didn't really open up though). Baffles are still in. Have a techlusion dfo ordered, it will be here next week, but I am not really sure if I need it if she is still running good, any suggestions?

Does anyone know why the little extension that bolts to the passenger foot pegs on the left side is shorter than the one on the right. The right side was perfect length but the left side had a 2" gap, which I had to pull, push, and strain to get the bolt back on. It went on but I felt a little uncomfortable pulling on it like that. Anyone else have that problem?

I like the look and love the sound of these cans. This is what it sould sound like from the factory!
 

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Glad you like them, I really enjoy mine too! As for "still" getting the DFO...I say YES. Mine runs fine with the baffles in, but starts the occassional hiccup at low RPM with them out. I don't have a stock ECM either, it was remapped with a Yosh box. I will be getting a DFO in the near future, I feel that it is the best solution for ANY bike that needs more fuel.

I took the thick spacer, and had my buddy cut it in half. That left me with 2 perfect sized spacers for both sides. I had zero issues bolting on the mid pipes, they went on perfect. I peeled off the stickers, and I think they look really sweet without.

They do sound really nice don't they?:cool: Now pull out your secondaries, and enjoy more "free" usable power and speed.

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B, now not being smart or anything but how does removing the secondarys add up to more speed, their removal may change throttle feel in the midrange area, but wide open is wide open and when the bike is wide open the secondarys are wide open and the blades do not present any more air flow resistance then the throttle shaft, unless you are removing the shaft too?? The secondary plates are there to provide a smoother transition and a consistant air flow when the throttle is opened quickly. If you are always in the proper gear you may not notice it but shift up a gear and snap the throttle open I think it may result in a momentary hickup until the air speed increases enough to allow the engine to use the extra shot of fuel you just threw at it. This momentary hickup (lag) may give you the impression of more power because when the engine catchs up it will launch you and the bike quickly down the road. Using your car or truck as an example, you whack the throttle and the computer sees 100 percent throttle request the system has to make adjustments,to fuel, timing and a down shift of the transmission, during this time lag the engine is allowed to free rev then the down shift occurrs and the power hits and if you have enough power the tires spin and you are moved down the road very smartly. Again not being smart just asking. Have you or any of the others tried the Timing Retard Eliminator, the 1k has the timing retarded in the first four gears, if you use one you may have to use 89 or higher octane fuel all the time but it does wake them up.
 

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B, now not being smart or anything but how does removing the secondarys add up to more speed, their removal may change throttle feel in the midrange area, but wide open is wide open and when the bike is wide open the secondarys are wide open and the blades do not present any more air flow resistance then the throttle shaft, unless you are removing the shaft too?? The secondary plates are there to provide a smoother transition and a consistant air flow when the throttle is opened quickly. If you are always in the proper gear you may not notice it but shift up a gear and snap the throttle open I think it may result in a momentary hickup until the air speed increases enough to allow the engine to use the extra shot of fuel you just threw at it. This momentary hickup (lag) may give you the impression of more power because when the engine catchs up it will launch you and the bike quickly down the road. Using your car or truck as an example, you whack the throttle and the computer sees 100 percent throttle request the system has to make adjustments,to fuel, timing and a down shift of the transmission, during this time lag the engine is allowed to free rev then the down shift occurrs and the power hits and if you have enough power the tires spin and you are moved down the road very smartly. Again not being smart just asking. Have you or any of the others tried the Timing Retard Eliminator, the 1k has the timing retarded in the first four gears, if you use one you may have to use 89 or higher octane fuel all the time but it does wake them up.
You are not being a smart ass....just intelligent!:mrgreen: Actually I have zero lag when I crack open the throttle, with the butterfiles out. I have more of a smooth transition with any kind of throttle response, as far as I am concerned. Pulling them out pretty much does what a TRE does for "free". I can now redline in any gear if I so desire, as well as having a "full" top speed capability. You cannot achieve this without pulling the butterflies or installing a TRE. You lose the overdrive light for some reason, with a TRE installed as well. With the secondaries in WOT is not WOT, actually the ECM will have the secondary shaft close the butterflies which restricts the power and top speed. The primarys can still be open, but the secondaries overide them. Pull out the secondaries and you continue to build speed and power.

I am not an advocate "usually", for going and changing a design from the factory. But.....myself and MANY others feel that the secondaries really serve no positve purpose, and all they do is tame down the potential of the engine, and maybe help with emissions. With my secondaries out, FI system properly adjusted, and baffles OUT of my Leo Vince exhausts, my 1000 pulls like a freight train and runs like a scalded dog. It is faster, revs quicker and runs better than ever. Haven't we talked about this all before????:confused: I still do need more fuel sometimes, cause she will buck and sputter at low RPM's sporadically. Usually happens when the weather is warm and I have my baffles pulled out. Baffles in and she runs great, which proves that I need a bit more fuel at the bottom rev range. I will fix that eventually!!!;-)


You sound like you work for Suzuki, I'm really impressed!!!!!:cool: I am sure that you will convince some people, with your excellent observation.

Later,

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B
Thats not how it works

You don't choke a motor to limit output, to do so you would have to cut back on the fuel to prevent over fueling. You use a fuel or ign cut off sometimes both. So if what you say were true, when the secondary plates are closed by the computer it would also have to reduce fuel delivery, and unless you over ride the computer the fuel would still be reduced with the plates out, so no additional gain. The computer also monitors speed of the vehicle to limit top speed, past 8000 you are running off the power curve, and while the engine will continue to redline unless you have your bike geared down I doubt that it will run any faster in 6th then it will in 5th. Have you really had it red lined in 5th or 6th?? Since the computer controls the top speed unless you modify IT you will not go any faster on top end, bone stock the 1k will out run its brakes, tires, and chassis, that speed is slightly less then the tires speed rating. Is it really worth spending near $900.00 to gain less then 4 HP and less then 4 ft lbs. of torque?? A point to ponder, increased intake and exhaust noise does not denote horse power and speed, plus the butt dyno is easily confused by imput from the ear, and the desire of the brain to think, I did all this work, and spent all this money so it just has to be faster. You can strap it to a dyno and spend lots of time, effort and money for very little gain, its not a race bike so why bother.
Those throttle plates were installed to smooth out air flow and make the engine more tractable at LOW speeds incase someone with less then expert ability chose to ride the bike in the dirt. The smaller heads and throttle bodys are the major culprit for less HP. Be careful how much fuel you throw at the engine also, the PAIR system will light up your header pipes if you go to heavy.
 

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B
Thats not how it works

You don't choke a motor to limit output, to do so you would have to cut back on the fuel to prevent over fueling. You use a fuel or ign cut off sometimes both. So if what you say were true, when the secondary plates are closed by the computer it would also have to reduce fuel delivery, and unless you over ride the computer the fuel would still be reduced with the plates out, so no additional gain. The computer also monitors speed of the vehicle to limit top speed, past 8000 you are running off the power curve, and while the engine will continue to redline unless you have your bike geared down I doubt that it will run any faster in 6th then it will in 5th. Have you really had it red lined in 5th or 6th?? Since the computer controls the top speed unless you modify IT you will not go any faster on top end, bone stock the 1k will out run its brakes, tires, and chassis, that speed is slightly less then the tires speed rating. Is it really worth spending near $900.00 to gain less then 4 HP and less then 4 ft lbs. of torque?? A point to ponder, increased intake and exhaust noise does not denote horse power and speed.
You are correct in allot of your points, thanks for adding it!!:cool:

Do you ever venture at other Strom forums? If not...you should. There is allot of techincal advice, info and facts that isn't always presented here. The top speed is limited with the secondaries in, for 5th- 6th ONLY. You will have the full 98 hp available for 1st through 4th. You are correct in saying that it is a combination of fuel delivery and throttle plates. The hp is constant in 1st through 4th but not the last 2, but if you pull the plates it is relatively constant. So if you take the combination of the 2 areas which causes a "change", you either restrict or help derestrict top speed and power. The secondaries, although they don't limit top speed and power from 1st- 4th......they still open and close opposite from what the primary's are doing. By pulling them out, we are only operating under the primary butterflies. I for sure don't always have all the right answers and info, but I am an anti-secondary believer/follower.

Soooooo many people feel that is is a wasted design from Suzuki for the 1000's to have this. I am just glad that we have the choice to yank them or keep them. Things may run even better with them yanked AND a TRE installed. Add a little more fuel as well........and INSTANT LOVE!!!!!!:mrgreen:

The 1000 is a blast to ride whatever you decide to do. It is a very dependable bike which has had very few gremlins in the big scheme of things.

BB
 

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B
Thats not how it works

You don't choke a motor to limit output, to do so you would have to cut back on the fuel to prevent over fueling. You use a fuel or ign cut off sometimes both. So if what you say were true, when the secondary plates are closed by the computer it would also have to reduce fuel delivery, and unless you over ride the computer the fuel would still be reduced with the plates out, so no additional gain. The computer also monitors speed of the vehicle to limit top speed, past 8000 you are running off the power curve, and while the engine will continue to redline unless you have your bike geared down I doubt that it will run any faster in 6th then it will in 5th. Have you really had it red lined in 5th or 6th?? Since the computer controls the top speed unless you modify IT you will not go any faster on top end, bone stock the 1k will out run its brakes, tires, and chassis, that speed is slightly less then the tires speed rating. Is it really worth spending near $900.00 to gain less then 4 HP and less then 4 ft lbs. of torque?? A point to ponder, increased intake and exhaust noise does not denote horse power and speed, plus the butt dyno is easily confused by imput from the ear, and the desire of the brain to think, I did all this work, and spent all this money so it just has to be faster. You can strap it to a dyno and spend lots of time, effort and money for very little gain, its not a race bike so why bother.
Those throttle plates were installed to smooth out air flow and make the engine more tractable at LOW speeds incase someone with less then expert ability chose to ride the bike in the dirt. The smaller heads and throttle bodys are the major culprit for less HP. Be careful how much fuel you throw at the engine also, the PAIR system will light up your header pipes if you go to heavy.
I'd spend the $900.00 if this bike would sound anywhere as good as a beautiful older red TL 1000, sporting a couple of aftermarket cans, that passed me like I was standing still on the highway a couple of months ago. Without a doubt the nicest sounding MC I have ever heard.
 

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B

Ok what ever you say.
 

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Damn I should know better then to wrestle with a pig, his buddys will hear the mud splashing and want to jump into the mud puddle. LOL
 

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B

Ok what ever you say.
It isn't just what "I" have said, but what I witness everytime I ride my bike. Many others do as well, so are they also wrong?:wink: The info that I give is from people much smarter than I am, and who are giving good informative and accurate feedback. Pull out your TRE, and go flog your bike in a straight line as hard as you can. Then.......pull your secondaries out and try to run your bike the same way. See if you can tell a difference. Bet you will, cause it will run allot like your TRE installed unit.

RIPLEYS BELIEVE IT OR NOT!!!!!!!:mrgreen:

HEY....YOU CALLIN ME A PIG?????:lol:





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B

Its not what you witness its what your ears hear and your butt perceives to be an improvement. Since you went to so much trouble to get them out it surely made a big difference. If new exhaust and a computer reprogram net you less then 4 HP on a dyno, I don't believe your butt is sensitive enough to tell the difference, between plates and no plates. Yeah Ripleys can say it and apparently you do believe it.
Using your butt dyno what were the horse power gains?? Like I said in the first post it may change the feel in the part throttle area but more horse power Naw. The TRE also does not change horse power just response in the first 4 gears.
 

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I thought this thread was about Leo Vince exhaust. Or am I in the wrong place?:confused:

Very true...we "me and Mortaine" have gotten off topic, guess I have been a major culprit!:(
We were talking ever so nicely about how awesome the Leo's are, and then I referenced pulling the secondaries as well. That opened up a whole new debate in itself. Im finished with it.....can't convince some people.;)

Yes the Leos have excellent fit and finish, yes they sound awesome, yes they increase hp with baffles out, and yes they are the best deal in exhausts. How they are so cheap for how nice they truly are...is simply amazing!!!

Hooray....on topic again.:cool:
 

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If I knew it would make a difference other than just noise, I would try one on the Wee.

You would have to get the full system my friend, very pricey and it doesn't allow for most engine guards to work. If you want a seriously nice can that matches Leo for the best bang for the buck.....get a Scorpion. Real easy install, and they never need a repack. Had one on my Bandit and they sound sweet!

Yes exhausts sound nice, they drop weight, and some offer more hp. I also think they look much nicer too.
 

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Where's the best place to buy these cans? I'm seeing $483 at pipecity.com, I was going to go with Holeshot, but these appear to be MUCH cheaper!
 

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Leo Vince Install

I just installed my new Leo Vince cans.purchased from Adventure Moto-Stuff. Thanks to the crew at Adventure Moto-Stuff for their outstanding service.

My install went flawlessly, all in all it took about 1 hour to complete the install. I was a bit perplexed as to why so many were having trouble with the spacers mine went together easily and perfectly aligned. The right side pipe has an extended stand-off bracket that moves the assembley closer to the bike. This is the side for the thin spacer. The thick spacer goes on the left.

Some tips that will ease your install is to loosen your passenger peg mounts and install the pipes and mounting hardware. Now do not tighten anything just yet. Next install the cans and the springs. lastly install your rear hangers (Thick spacer on the left, thin on the right). Now align the can in the rear mounts so they sit properly as viewed from the rear of the bike. This is the hardest part to get just right. Keep at it and you will get it. Once the cans are aligned in the rear bracket and tightened snug up your passenger peg mounts then the pipe mount bolt. At this point position the band clamps so as not to get caught in the swing arm and tighten them down. Now your are done. Go ride and have fun.

I like em they sound nice and they are lighter too.
Steve
 

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When you speak of left/right pipes, do you mean in relation to you sitting on the bike? I plan to get these, but I've been concerned about the spacer thing.
 

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I also had the left side mid-pipe wrestling match. I had to loosen everything over there to get it to work. But, with some tugging and swearing, it all fits.

I don't have a larger gap on one side. I ended up with only a single hanger setup, and used the extra bolt washer/spacer things as a matched set of spacers for the one hanger I used. Everything lines up nice. One thing to keep in mind, there isn't a "stop" on the hanger hole. It will keep going as long as you keep turning the wrench. So pay attention to how far in you are cranking the hanger mount and you should be all set.

MZ - I wouldn't worry about the spacer thing, it's not that big of an issue. If the ones that came with it aren't correct (and for many people they are) you can pick up something at a hardware store easily, or use the single hanger design I did. Easy as pie.

And a big +1 for Amotostuff.com Those guys ROCK! Awesome service, fast shipping and great prices. What more could you ask for?
 
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