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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Oh, goodie. At least I knew of potential for problems here and installed a voltage monitor, which made for just a shortened trip rather than a recovery mission. Okay, I know there is a ton of info on this, which is one reason I'm uncertain- it's all over the place. My bike is a K8 Wee (43,000 mi), and it looks like the two biggest threads for charging problems are the magnets thread in the Gen 1 V subforum and the recall/availability thread in the Glee subforum. That all pretty much applies to me, doesn't it? I just took the cover off to have a peek and assess the situation. Definitely have some early stator-fry going on, but I don't see the magnets I'm supposed to check. I know my bike has had at least three previous owners, so maybe one of them put in an aftermarket rotor that looks different? Or maybe I need to disassemble one more step in order to see them? I have a ring of six bolts with T40 heads, thinking that I might have to get those out and then slide out sort of inner cover (see attatched pic), but trying to break the Torx heads loose is wiggling the unsecured gear that goes between my starter and (I think?, not a motor guy) the flywheel, so I don't want to go there if I don't have to.

So that's my biggest question for today: does my rotor look "standard", and if so, are the magnets supposed to be behind another layer of stuff?

Following that, I see the rotor part number has changed between `08 and `17 (latest year listed on my usual parts source). If I replace the stator with the most current (32101-28K00 ?) and NOT the rotor, will they play well together? Or, since I definitely need a new stator, do I need to "new up" the 11-year-old rotor to match it even if my magnets are all intact? Thanks!
 

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Only the VEE (DL1000) had stator magnet problems because the individual magnets were not encased but simply glued on and over time the glue would let loose and they slid together, thus causing the rotating magnetic field to become inadequate.

So don't touch your rotor!

Why you think that your stator is defective? What happened on your last trip?

Check here: https://www.stromtrooper.com/sale/423303-new-used-parts-dl650-wee-others.html
He has your replacement stator, be quick before someone else snaps it up. :wink2:
 

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Your rotor is fine, and is not susceptible to the problem with shifting magnet pieces. You can see its magnet material as the wider dark gray band between the thinner concentric metallic layers.


Your best bet for a fix is to see if the bike has had the stator recall work done. Likely it has not and Suzuki will replace it at little or no cost to you. Go to this site and plug in your bike's VIN to see if it is eligible. If Suzuki will fix it, you can let go of worry about part compatibility. (As I understand it, the revised stator is a form/fit/function replacement; no other parts have to be changed.)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the good news! Will not go tearing into the rotor, then (phew!). Will PM Hank as soon as I'm done here- even has the gasket, which is awesome because I already trashed mine. Trepidator, I don't think the recal was for my K8. Wasn't that only for glee models even though the problem has been around since the early days?

> Why you think that your stator is defective? What happened on your last trip? <
Sat afternoon I noticed that my HeadsUp monitor had gone to solid red with no "extra" electrical draw at mid revs, probably about 4k. I downshifted and reved, did not "green up" until about 6K. Killed one light and it was green for the time being, so I started for home. Stopped for dinner about a half hour later and when I started up again, I had flashing red at idle with one light off, best I could do by reving was solid red. I rode another half hour like that and camped for the night. Yesterday morning I started it up (flashing red at idle with one light off), rev'd and held starter button in, could not get out of flashing red mode. Removed the fuse for my aux fusebox (killing volt monitor as well as headlight relays), crossed fingers, rode two hours home, breathed a sigh of relief. Broke out multimeter: 12.5 from battery with key off, 12.5 at idle, barely 13 when rev'd a bit. Put bike on battery tender (charged in ~2 hours) and did internet research. This morning I dug in and found what I described above. Would a picture of the stator that looks to me like it is going be helpful?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Coil at 1:00 that looks like it's covered with burnt or dirty oil looks kinda suspicous, two coils at 11:00 with blackened wires at base look worse (says me, who really doesn't know what the heck I'm looking at). Appreciate the expert eye! Also appreciate the heads up for Hank2's classified, already PM'd him. Where do I find a listing for recalled VINs?
 

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Coil at 1:00 that looks like it's covered with burnt or dirty oil looks kinda suspicous, two coils at 11:00 with blackened wires at base look worse (says me, who really doesn't know what the heck I'm looking at). Appreciate the expert eye! Also appreciate the heads up for Hank2's classified, already PM'd him. Where do I find a listing for recalled VINs?
The coil at 1:00 is clearly burnt looking. The more isolated wires you see burnt probably suffered from the over-current that occurs when one of the pole coils (such as the one at 1:00) develops a shorted turn.
As for recalled VINs, I provided a link above where you can provide your VIN to check recall status for the bike. The stator will have to be replaced; the only question is who will absorb the cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As for recalled VINs, I provided a link above where you can provide your VIN to check recall status for the bike.
Aw jeez, I missed that when I read your post the first time- my eyeballs must have been in too much of a hurry! Anyways, no recall for my VIN, but worth checking, right? Thanks again!
 

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I don't know of any recalls on the 2008 through 2011 Wee's for the stators. They had the same stators as the '12, on models, but Suzuki ignored them. Sure didn't get one for my L1. You can dig through the NHTSA site to check. The alternator output got bumped up to 400 watts, from 375? beginning with the 2008 K's. Failures happened on older models as well, but from K8, on, it seemed to be much more common.

bdesj, I sent you a PM.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All better now. I was going to wait for next weekend, but Hank2 was quick on the draw in getting the part to me so decided to make a marathon day after I got off work this morning. Boy, those electrical connectors wedged between the airbox and the frame were fun! So much fun that I did it twice (looked at my routing after I got them all plugged in and didn't like it). Ever since I installed my voltage monitor it has gone red while idling at a stop light with brake light and turn signals going. Thought that might change with the new stator, but it's still the same. That's okay though, it does turn green at under 2000 RPM again, so I guess as long as it remains consistent it's good. Anyways, appreciate the help from everybody.
 

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All better now. I was going to wait for next weekend, but Hank2 was quick on the draw in getting the part to me so decided to make a marathon day after I got off work this morning. Boy, those electrical connectors wedged between the airbox and the frame were fun! So much fun that I did it twice (looked at my routing after I got them all plugged in and didn't like it). Ever since I installed my voltage monitor it has gone red while idling at a stop light with brake light and turn signals going. Thought that might change with the new stator, but it's still the same. That's okay though, it does turn green at under 2000 RPM again, so I guess as long as it remains consistent it's good. Anyways, appreciate the help from everybody.
After my 2nd stator failure, I carefully measured the magneto properties. (open-circuit voltage versus RPM, turns per pole, wire size, pole and magnet count, stator-to-rotor gap, and magnetic field strength) From these measurements and an electro-mechanical simulation model to augment my analysis [a], I determined that, at 1250 RPM idle speed, the magneto cannot supply the bike's stock loads. (engine + lights) I saw something like 1800 RPM necessary to keep up with the stock loads. So, to me, your report indicates nothing wrong at all. At any normal idle, the bike will slowly deplete the battery unless it has LED headlights.



[a. The analysis is tricky at low RPM because the bridge diodes conduct only part of the time, near stator voltage peaks. This makes average current estimation challenging. ]
 

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The stock connectors are a pain to access. If you decide to upgrade to a Series R/R ya move them and change them so they are easier to get too. This time with the Moffset I’m going to try the Triump adapter so I don’t have to change the Stator power connector.
 
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