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Hi all

Been lurching on here for some time as I'd been looking at the new 650, but my dads beat me to it. :thumbup:

Anywho he's got a problem with a snatching throttle when hes trying to get on/off the throttle or on low part throttle. he's just got the bike and got a new chain and sprocket, all tensioned properly. he thinks it feels like a throttle cable jamming feeling. he's already took it to the local mechanic but he can't find anything

Is there anything he should be looking out for or you guys know is a common problem?

thanks

max
 

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Mine (2012) is the same, and all others I know. Firstly, it's not supposed to be ridden bellow 3000 rpm. Secondly, it's just the question of getting used to it, as, for example, sometimes I ride downhill on 3500 rpm and need just a little touch of the the throttle to keep the speed and then I feel it jerky. Nothing to worry about.
But the most important, don't ride bellow 3000 rpm. This bike is just not made for lower rpm.
 

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Install a Throttle Tamer.

No need to keep it above 3000 RPM. This will make it fine at all RPMs. I purchased my Glee used and the previous Owner had installed one. I have one on my ST1300 and I can go on-off throttle in corners w/ no jerkiness. Before that I had to be careful, riding 2-up in corners, as it was very jerky.

From the manufactures website:

The Throttle Tamer incorporates a non-linear ratio between hand throttle rotation and carburetor or throttle body opening. The “pulley”, or as we call it, “cam” pulls the throttle cable as the rider rotates the grip/tube. By altering the conventional, circular shaped cam, a vast improvement in control is achieved.

The Throttle Tamer has a cam with a reduced radius initially, which requires a slightly farther rotation to achieve the same carburetor or throttle body opening position as a stock throttle. This virtually eliminates the jerky “throttle snatch” especially evident in modern fuel injected street bikes. The radius increases or “ramps up” after ½ throttle to keep overall rotation requires to reach full throttle at or near stock rotation.
 

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Make sure you don't have too much play in the cable. that will help a little but other than that there's no fix. I find it annoying too but I've gotten used to it. The throttle is like a light switch below 25mph, either on or off, accelerating or decelerating, almost impossible to hold a steady speed. Sometimes I just work the clutch. There should be a softer transition in the fuel mapping.
 

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Install a Throttle Tamer.

No need to keep it above 3000 RPM. This will make it fine at all RPMs. I purchased my Glee used and the previous Owner had installed one. I have one on my ST1300 and I can go on-off throttle in corners w/ no jerkiness. Before that I had to be careful, riding 2-up in corners, as it was very jerky.

From the manufactures website:

The Throttle Tamer incorporates a non-linear ratio between hand throttle rotation and carburetor or throttle body opening. The “pulley”, or as we call it, “cam” pulls the throttle cable as the rider rotates the grip/tube. By altering the conventional, circular shaped cam, a vast improvement in control is achieved.

The Throttle Tamer has a cam with a reduced radius initially, which requires a slightly farther rotation to achieve the same carburetor or throttle body opening position as a stock throttle. This virtually eliminates the jerky “throttle snatch” especially evident in modern fuel injected street bikes. The radius increases or “ramps up” after ½ throttle to keep overall rotation requires to reach full throttle at or near stock rotation.
I guess there is a fix after all.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Still, 2500-3000rpm is the minimum for smooth operation, depending on how well adjusted the TPS and TBS are. Below that and there aren't enough power strokes and horsepower to handle the load smoothly. Feather the clutch or downshift to keep the revs up.
 

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throttle accommodation

I had the same issue with my DL-650A when I got it in Fall 2013. At first, I dealt with it by putting a couple fingers on the brake lever when starting out, something that is often prudent in urban riding anyway. Now, I find that it is enough to keep the wrist angle back (more level), so as to reduce the positive feedback between acceleration force and throttle opening.

At this point, I would not bother with Throttle Tamer, even if it was free.
 

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I've found you just have to be very gentle with throttle input changes, I'm still getting used to it, but getting better. I wonder if foam grip covers would help with that problem?
 

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I also do the two fingers on the brake thing in corners...

another trick is to just slip the clutch a little if you know you are going to be "lugging it" around a corner.
 

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Try riding a Gladius, and then come back to the Glee and see how much smoother, less responsive it is, even though it's almost the same power train. I know if I'm ham-fisted with the closing, then opening of the throttle on my Glee it can feel jerky.
 

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I also do the two fingers on the brake thing in corners...

.

FWIW..........

A motorcycle instructor told me that is a big no-no. If you go down and you have some fingers caught behind the brake handle you'll lose those fingers.
He said all 4 fingers or none at all...........
 

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two fingers?

Referring to 2 fingers on brake lever, everready wrote:
FWIW..........

A motorcycle instructor told me that is a big no-no. If you go down and you have some fingers caught behind the brake handle you'll lose those fingers.
He said all 4 fingers or none at all...........
In the courses I took, the instructor also emphasized that rules should be applied intelligently, and that the rider needs to understand their application.

In my case, where the brake lever cannot quite close on my remaining two fingers on the throttle, and where I have grip guards, and where I use the two fingers only when accelerating, I have no qualms about disregarding that "no-no". When covering the brakes during approach to an identified potential hazard, I have all four fingers on the front brake lever. But when starting behind a line of cars, rather than pigging green light time, I follow by 1-1.5 seconds and use two fingers for better low throttle control and faster response should the driver ahead begin stopping unexpectedly.
 

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I'm not experiencing this at all. I mean yes it's jerky if I just slam the throttle, but simply using the clutch at very low speeds and being very gentle and smooth with the throttle input fixes that completely.
 

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I'd adjust the throttle cables for as close to zero slack as possible.

Learn how to be consciously smooth with the right wrist when cracking the throttle open. Practice, practice, practice.
 

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these bikes do have some fueling jerki-ness, especially if you come from the carbureted world. I've ridden the past 25 years on bmw airheads, so yeah, the first few rides on the wee and I was a bit alarmed, but after a few thousand miles, I've learned to adapt to it and rarely notice it anymore, besides, it's WAY better than most fuel injected beemers that cost twice as much!!
 

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I'd adjust the throttle cables for as close to zero slack as possible.

Learn how to be consciously smooth with the right wrist when cracking the throttle open. Practice, practice, practice.
The Strom has a nice and smooth throttle response - all it takes is proper operation which can require some practice to achieve.
 

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I'm surprised to find anyone complain about a jerky throttle. Maybe its because I have lots of experience on a Wee, but I think that the Wee2 has a smoother throttle than the Wee.
 

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Notice the people who complain are mostly coming off a different bike. They are using old muscle memory that is no longer appropriate. That will change with time.
 
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