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Discussion Starter #1
06 DL650 43,000 miles First time coming out of store, try to start bike, just dead, won't even try to turn over, assumed it was a dead battery. Came back with tools to remove the battery to get it replaced, voltage good and bike starts right up. That was a month ago.

Today after a ride, did an oil change, to check oil level bike starts right up. re-start 5 minutes later completely dead. Loud clicking noise coming from front of battery area when starter button is pressed, one loud clunk really , not click click click. Headlights come on

Both times after bike was ridden, not sure if that matters. I had installed an eastern beaver light kit relay years ago. Other than that, have LED brake lights on top box, no other add-ons

Checked clutch relay and kick stand relay, both good. First time this happened, checked standing voltage, start up and running,all within specs.

Any help appreciated, need to ride, especially now.
 

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06 DL650 43,000 miles First time coming out of store, try to start bike, just dead, won't even try to turn over, assumed it was a dead battery. Came back with tools to remove the battery to get it replaced, voltage good and bike starts right up. That was a month ago.

Today after a ride, did an oil change, to check oil level bike starts right up. re-start 5 minutes later completely dead. Loud clicking noise coming from front of battery area when starter button is pressed, one loud clunk really , not click click click. Headlights come on

Checked clutch relay and kick stand relay, both good. First time this happened, checked standing voltage, start up and running,all within specs.
If your meter is saying the battery is within specs, I'd pull it out and take it to someplace like Advance Auto or AutoZone and ask them to load test it. It sounds to me like the battery is failing. How old is it? The load test will tell you if it is a good battery or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Batteries 2 years young, after the first dead start, I've been riding almost every day since, a month maybe, full starting power, no signs of a battery failure, no weak starts. I will get it load testing, but what else can I start checking?
 

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It is not unheard of for a battery to fail after only two years. You need to test the charging system, AC and DC volts, and definitely install a voltmeter when you get a chance.
 
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With any bike ensure all battery cables are clean and tight at the battery and at the motor.

I would bridge out the two big terminals on the starter rely, use a spanner or something heavy like that, you will get a few sparks, if you get lots of sparks it is your starter motor.
 

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Define just dead, like as in no sweep of the dials / fuel pump prime? All valid points offered in the posts above, if the fuel pump primes / gauges sweep on ignition switch on. a dead battery will not display anything or prime the fuel pump.The clock would also reset to 00:00.
For a suspected battery, you could try jump starting your bike. When connecting for a jump start, take care to ensure the correct leads go to the correct terminals or serious damage may occur. Jump starting should prove the whether bike battery is at fault.
To me however, I am inclinded to suspect either the starter switch or the starter motor brushes. Post #5, by Rolex, will help prove whether the starter switch is at fault. To inspect the starter switch, this link may help you through the process, Start Switch Maintenance. For the starter motor, have you read Starter getting cranky.... ?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Started right up this morning like nothing was wrong. Shut off, tried again 1 minute later, dead. Had battery load tested at two different locations, good battery.
Hey rolex, can you elaborate what you mean by this...
"I would bridge out the two big terminals on the starter rely, use a spanner or something heavy like that, you will get a few sparks, if you get lots of sparks it is your starter motor"

You mean short the two terminals??

What else you got??
 

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REPLACE THE BATTERY.......I don't care what tests say it's good, I have had similar situation and it was the battery. So does the pump prime, are you getting a CHEC, do the lights come on? Tell us EXACTLY what works and what you see when it doesn't start, will help us further troubleshoot?
 

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Started right up this morning like nothing was wrong. Shut off, tried again 1 minute later, dead. Had battery load tested at two different locations, good battery. Hey rolex, can you elaborate what you mean by this... "I would bridge out the two big terminals on the starter rely, use a spanner or something heavy like that, you will get a few sparks, if you get lots of sparks it is your starter motor" You mean short the two terminals??
See this link of under the seat of a Gen1 Wee like yours. In the lower left corner, under that blue wire is the starter relay. Based on the facts reported so far, your issue is the starter motor or relay getting hung up. (However, @Big B is correct, batteries can pass the load tests and still be bad, it is what makes troubleshooting so much fun!).

The starter relay has a clear plastic cover over two heavy gauge wires that feed the starter motor. The small wires on the connector that feed into the starter relay are the low amp circuits that activate the relay and connect the two heavy gauge wires to power the starter motor. With the cover off (BIKE IN NEUTRAL!) use a piece of metal to jump those two bolts and that takes the relay operation out of the picture. If that method works reliably (do it a couple of times) then it is the relay that is bad. If it still won't turn over then it is probably the starter motor binding once it gets hot.

Also, don't use a screw driver or some other tool you care about as the high currents will damage the tip and you will get a shower of sparks as mentioned. To minimize the spark don't hesitate to make the jump, on the count of three... jam a piece of metal between the connectors as fast and firmly as you can and it won't spark too much.

If you need a starter rebuild kit I recommend Motor City Reman
 
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The post above has most of it covered.

The bypass takes out all safety and other switches, the clunk is common to a poled out starter while a click click click is more common with a bad battery.

The amount of sparks is the key, because you get better and more direct power to the starter when you bypass the solenoid you may find it turns over every time and not off the4 start button, there will be some sparks because it is a big load but if the starter is bad that load can change each time you bypass it so the sparks can change each time, if the bike starts each time and the sparks don't change it is less likely to be the starter.

Taking voltage readings during the process would be good, before, with ignition on, while cranking and after it starts, you will need to do it quite a few times to get useable results.

How long have you had EB headlight kit in and have you had a good look at the big plug under the rubber boot on the left side to ensure all terminals are tight and not showing heat stress.
 

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I had a similar problem on a ' 08 V, electric cleaned and siliconed the key slot in the switch, and the problem went away.🏍💨✝
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
This morning, fired right up, I shut the bike off, fired right up a second time, shut it down again and waited a minute, third time no start, Pump primes, lights come on, there is no CHEC notice.
Click heard when start button is pressed,otherwise dead, no turn over, nothing
 

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Sure is starting to sound like a dead spot on the starter armature. BUT, it would have to be a hell of a big dead spot or maybe multiple dead spots for it to be happening with such consistency. I'd say prepare access to the starter solenoid before you go through this exercise again. That way when the starter fails the next time you can immediately jump the solenoid to start ruling that in or out. For me, if it started then by jumping the solenoid immediately after failing by the start button, I would still repeat that exercise numerous times with hours between attempts to really be satisfied the solenoid was the problem.

Of course, if jumping the solenoid does NOT start the bike, then that is the starter itself (or, at a stretch the cable connections between the battery and starter).

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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Ensue the bike is in neutral & join the 2 wires at the clutch switch while performing your test just to eliminate that.

You can also hear the headlights click off you need to feel the starter relay to ensure it is coming in.

You can run a jumper cable from the positive side of the battery to the power terminal on the starter motor and see if it runs every time.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
So bear with me here, I'm touching this improvised tool (See photo) touching the two terminals, bike in neutral, ignition on, clutch pulled in, nothing happens. I'm assuming I don't have to push the start button because touching the terminals by passes the relay, or do I have that wrong?

Also, when I read voltage from one relay terminal to ground, I get12.7. Then check the voltage on the other terminal while starting the bike, in neutral, clutch pulled in pressing started button, I should get 12.7 from the other side, if relay is working. No voltage

Anyway, I will get this figured out, about time I learned how to.
 

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You should get sparks jumping those lugs. I'm not sure why you are getting nothing, you've got it right. That trick bypasses all the interlocks, switches and even the relay so it should dump 12VDC straight into the starter. Check that the cables are secure on the battery pos terminal and at the starter end. Also, maybe that tool (allen wrench) isn't conductive?

Connector block has a release tab you press on the side with the red/black wire.
 
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I wonder, if the starter was dead, the circuit wouldn't complete so no current across the lugs and no sparks.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Tried this new tool with zero ohms of resistance across the metal, still nothing. No spark,dead. Connections are good and secure. 12.7 Volts on terminal 1.
The two 30 amp fuses on either side were pulled and tested, both good. One side is a little loose though, could that make any difference?
I've see plenty of u-tube videos where the starter is pulled to test it, Is there a way to test the starter w/o removing it?
 

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You can do a "bench" test with the starter on the bike. Bike in neutral, key off (not trying to start it just trying to get anything out of the starter motor) and remove the power cable from the starter but put the nut back on so the next step does not damage the threads. With jumper cables, connect the neg terminal of the battery to metal anywhere on the engine preferably near the starter. With the other jumper temporarily connect the pos terminal of the battery to power terminal on the starter motor. That should crank the motor if the starter is still good.

If that works then check that the connection of the ground cable from the battery to the back of the engine case is not loose or corroded on the engine end. If the bench test does not work you have a bad winding on the starter armature or the brushes are completely worn out or jammed with dust from the brushes.

You'll have to remove the starter motor and disassemble. If you don't want to wait for the starter rebuild kit (see post #9), sometimes you can get a few more starts out of a motor by just cleaning out the dust that accumulates from disintegrating brushes with compressed air and cleaning the armature pads that the brushes contact with rubbing alcohol but eventually you'll need that kit.

I am not sure how to test the windings but you can inspect them and see if there is any obvious burn marks and maybe test continuity with a voltmeter. If the armature windings are bad you'll need to replace the starter.
 
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