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Discussion Starter #1
I've been experiencing an irregular, infrequent problem with my Wee failing to start.

I deploy the side-stand to get off the bike. I put the bike on the center-stand. I raise the side-stand. When I return to the bike I mount while it's still on the center-stand. I turn on (off?) the kill switch and turn the key. The instrument cluster screen briefly shows 0 mph, then switches to a horizontal line. I pull the clutch lever and hit the start button. Nothing happens.

This has happened probably 6-8 times in the last few months. Sometimes a couple of times in a few days, then weeks go by before it occurs again.

When it happens, I cycle through the start-up procedure a few times and it clears up. Sometimes I've put the side-stand back down and up again, and that's resolved it.

The only time I've seen the same thing on the gauge screen is when the side-stand is down, which leads me to believe something may be going on with my side-stand switch. But I'm open to other suggestions.

So far, the bike hasn't stranded me. But the last time it happened it took a good 10 minutes of fiddling before it would start again, and I'm afraid the issue is progressing.
 

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Why not take the switch mount apart and check it out? Not sure you can bypass the switch like you can on the early models.
If you are open to other suggestions, check the clutch switch too. But if the CHEK like is on, stay with only things that cause that indication.
My other bike, a G650GS, will crank but not start with the side stand down.
All these safety features can be a bother!
 

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The - on the screen is for your side stand but if the bike is in neutral (or thinks its in neutral) the side stand switch will play no part in the starting procedure.

You should only ever stop the bike with the ignition switch, it is heavy duty and built for the job, all other switches are only for emergency use.

As a first test I would bypass the clutch switch, it is easy to do and will give you a quick answer, don't leave it permanently bypassed.

Does your fuel pump prime when the ignition is turned on ?

Do your headlights go out when you hit the start button. ?
 
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I had a bike actually shut down in the middle of a passing manoeuvre. Not a fun event. I had noticed on startup that morning that the ignition switch had been a little stiff and took two attempts to get the usual ignition lights up and running. When the bike stopped I turned the ignition on and off several times and that got me going again. When I got home I sent copious amounts of silicone spray down the ignition key slot. The problem hasn't occurred since.

If not that then I agree with others that the sidestand switch could be an issue. However a broken wire in the loom might be losing contact intermittently especially in the area around the steering column whey the loom is constantly being moved with handlebar movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You should only ever stop the bike with the ignition switch, it is heavy duty and built for the job, all other switches are only for emergency use.
Interesting. Not what I was taught in my MSF course. I learned: Kill switch off / Ignition off / Gas off (if appropriate) / Side-stand down. But that was years ago, and maybe things have changed.

Does your fuel pump prime when the ignition is turned on ?
I believe that it did, though I'll pay particular attention to this if/when it happens again.

Do your headlights go out when you hit the start button. ?
Nope, nothing happens when I hit the starter.
 

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I wonder if it couldn't be a problem starting up with the starter switch. Might not hurt to very carefully take it apart and look for any issues. Headlight relays would be a great thing to add at this time also. There are many threads about this in here. Just a thought....:confused:
 

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Rolex: "You should only ever stop the bike with the ignition switch, it is heavy duty and built for the job, all other switches are only for emergency use."
Absolutely correct. Triumphs are infamous for Start/Stop switch problems, some of their owners manuals state that the switch is for emergency use only.

Ive posted this before, but it is unnecessary to disassemble a switch be it a start/stop or a side stand switch. You cant disassemble a clutch microswitch. It is a simple voltage drop test.
Dont disconnect a thing. Key on, voltmeter on a low-volt DC setting. Backprobe both switch connector terminals with both the positive and negative voltmeter leads. Activate the switch. If your voltmeter reads over .1VDC you have a switch problem.
This procedure also works on brake light switches, any other light switch. Also works on battery connections, starter solenoids, ground terminals, bulb sockets,most all electrical circuits and connectors.
 

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If the stand switch is bad the bike will start but it will stall every time a gear is selected.

The headlights should go out when you hit the start button, if they do it could be the clutch switch if they don't it could be the start button or ignition related.

If you still get the - up try playing with the gear leaver.

Using any switch other than the ignition to shut down the bike will shorten the life of the switch as the light duty contacts will burn.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the continuing education.

An update...I had it happen again during a short lunch run yesterday. This time I paid particular attention when I turned the ignition and I did hear the fuel pump prime. This time I moved the handlebars lock to lock and, when I turned the ignition back on again, the problem disappeared.
 
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