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I haven't been able to ride much in the last year and just getting back into the saddle again. With my '06 DL1000 after it sits for couple weeks, about 1 out of 10 times on cold start I have gas leaking from somewhere down between the cylinders. After riding minimal time or switching off and restarting it stops. My shadetree degree tells me it must be an o-ring or connection drying out and then resealing. After owning too many m/c's I realize what happens to one model bike most likely happens to other people too. I tried to do a search, but my computer skills are actually worse than my mechanical ability. Have any of you riders experienced this?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It's happened on other bikes too. It's usually the short fuel hose shown in blue
between the injector fuel rails or the O rings on the rails or the injectors and the cylinders. Sometimes, tightening or replacing the red clamps is all that is needed. See post #11 here for the proper type of clamp.

 

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I'm old guy, so probably repeating myself. But the two quick responses once again demonstrate why this site and the FZ1OA are the two best sites going. Go to some of the sites where riders are in their early twenties and ask any question other installing led lights or stretching the swingarm and wait for an answer. Thanks again.
 

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Just made the same repair myself. Nice job on the graphics Greywolf. The cheezy crimp on factory hose clamps on the hose Greywolf described was the culprit. Almost as worthless as the rest of the hose clamps on the bike but much more dangerous. You've got to remove the fuel tank and air box to get to the rascal. I used a cut off wheel on my dremel tool to CAREFULLY cut away the original clamps and installed some good screw down types from NAPA to solve the problem. Not that bad of a project but it just pisses me that it had to be done in the first place. All clamps on this bike are total junk.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Graphics are from Suzuki colored by John Weldon at VSRI.
 

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Just made the same repair myself. Nice job on the graphics Greywolf. The cheezy crimp on factory hose clamps on the hose Greywolf described was the culprit. Almost as worthless as the rest of the hose clamps on the bike but much more dangerous. You've got to remove the fuel tank and air box to get to the rascal. I used a cut off wheel on my dremel tool to CAREFULLY cut away the original clamps and installed some good screw down types from NAPA to solve the problem. Not that bad of a project but it just pisses me that it had to be done in the first place. All clamps on this bike are total junk.
I'm really glad to find this extremely helpful thread--love the colored diagram!

I have this exact issue right now. I ride the bike regularly, got it out of the garage last week and after idling for a minute, I went to get on and noticed gas dripping. Upon further inspection, it appears to be around the front clamp of that short fuel hose between the intakes (color blue in the diagram).

So my question to those that have done this repair---HOW DO YOU GET THE AIR BOX OFF? The DL650 frame is so wide that it blocks the access to the area above the carbs dramatically. It appears that I can use a long, skinny, phillips to loosen the large clamp on the front intake. The rear intake is easy to get to. After that, it appears there are lots of things attached to the airbox---perhaps enough slack to pull the air box aside to do the fuel hose repair?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It appears you have a handle on the operation. Loosen the clamps and disconnect all the hoses and wiring that are attached to the air box. It needs to come off entirely to access the area. The first time I did it, I got a fault indicated because I failed to connect one of the sensors. Try starting the bike as soon as you get the tank back on to check for a fault. If there is one, you won't have to take as much stuff off to get back in there.
 

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gas leak

I had the same problem. Started the bike and gas flowed out from the area up under the gas tank. I never could see exactly where the leak was from but I decided to do the procedure described by Greywolf. My knuckles are raw, I'm scratching my head as to why the engineers made it so difficult to remove the air-box, but, I started it up and the problem was fixed.

The suzuki shop didn't have the fuel injector line clamps but my auto parts store did.

Thanks for sharing all of the knowledge.
 

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Fuel leak

Wow, awesome site. I was just checking in and have fixed the exact same issue this weekend.

1) The original clamp on mine was just a little loose so I used some flat face wire cutters and just tightened the crimp a little. Hose clamps would be OK too I guess but this fitting is under a high fuel pressure and the oem clamp applies a constant spring tension....no matter how cheesy you feel it is. So I kept it on mine.

2) The easy way to remove the air box is to remove the clamp for the rear TB but NOT the front. On the front, squeese the rubber horn coming into the box and give it a little spit or WD 40 for lube and push it down through its hole leaving it attached to the front TB. Then upon reassembly, do the opposite being sure the groove in the rubber horn is correct in the air box and seals correctly.

Warning, there is a bunch of EFI crap under the box, remember how it goes back. Install the TB clamps exactly as they come off, if on wrong, they could interfer with throttle linkage.

And lastly, it took me an hour to figure out how the push pins work. Also, blue painters tape around the plastic pieces keeps you from scuffing up your pretty parts shoving the gas tank back in while using your other 4 hands to make the pieces spread apart enough.


When done, I went out back and hit myself in the head with a 2x4...it was much more fun than this repair which took me 3 hours. (1 hour for the friggin push pin)
 
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It's worth noting that you have to use fuel injection hose clamps.

Regular hose clamps usually won't do the job.

Beware -- most auto parts monkeys don't know the difference and will try to sell you low-rent shonky worm-drive hose clamps.

You want a clamp that looks like this:
 

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It's worth noting that you have to use fuel injection hose clamps.

Regular hose clamps usually won't do the job.

Beware -- most auto parts monkeys don't know the difference and will try to sell you low-rent shonky worm-drive hose clamps.

You want a clamp that looks like this:
That is exactly the clamp I got from O'Reilly Auto Parts. As a follow-up to my original post about this with questions on how to remove the air-box, etc....turned out this job was relatively easy. Heck, the hardest part is removing the fairings, etc. The rear intake clamp is easy to access. The front one seemed near impossible, but then I just crafted a really long screwdriver out of my ratchet extensions, etc, and gently loosened the front intake clamp--just enough to make it loose enough to pull the airbox off but not so much that the clamp would fall off.

Regarding the fairings....maybe all of you know this, but those little plastic pins that hold the fairings on---you just PUSH the middle to unlock them. Doh! That is much better than breaking half of them like I did. :headbang: I bought a bunch to keep around for the next time.
 

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If you are removing the front TB clamp you are wasting time and effort. See my post on page 1.

Even worse, you are risking a poor seal since you can not see it when reinstalling. Just pull the rubber through the air box.....DOAHH


P.S. this fitting can be seen by laying on your back and looking up under the clutch side of the tank. Both fule rail fittings are visible, watch for the leak at first start up.
 

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Meh, I just use my two-foot-long Phillips screwdriver (like, $6 at Menards) to remove the front TB clamp. There's no extra effort vs. yanking the airbox out of the boot. Mega-screwdriver is also handy for adjusting the TB sync screw.

Six of one, half dozen of the other. :mrgreen:
 

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Weekend Task

I just completed this task on my '07 V. I had the same problems others had mentioned. When I first purchased the bike in November 2009, I'd smell some fuel upon startup and thought it might be due to the default starting mixture setting being set to rich condition. The real kicker was the day I took it to work and there was gas just streaming on the ground near the plastic guard on the bottom of the bike. At that point, I just walked into work and thought I'd figure it out when I got home. Lo and behold, there was no leak when I got home. That prompted me to look here and sure enough the root cause was ID'd.

I purchased the 5/16" fuel line and clamps from Bennett Auto Supply. They may only be located in the South U.S., but their employees are pretty solid when it comes to recommendations when compared to other national chains. Anyway, the total was $9. The job is not too difficult, but it does take some time mostly due to the bodywork. I'm still not an expert at removing the cowling, etc. by any means. I cut a section of tube 39 mm (1.5”) long. Installation wasn’t too difficult as I was able to remove only the front fuel pipe and snake the tube onto the rear fuel pipe. You just have to make sure everything seats properly and all connections are re-made.

Everything worked like a champ when it was buttoned back together, and there is no fuel smell at all. So, it was leaking to some extent for a while. Thanks to everyone in this forum for explaining the fix.
 

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Thanks for the diagram GW. I've been meaning to do this Mod for quite a while.
 

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Suzuki recall to fix problem? Naw!

Same problem here.:furious: Going to tackle the job this afternoon. Thanks for all the great tips! Great site! I guess Suzuki doesn't need to step up and do a recall on this since we do it ourselves.:yesnod:
 

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proper clamps

EFI is new to me as far as my bikes are concerned, so I just used some worm-gear type clamps, not fully understanding about the pressure involved. So, it all instantly leaked as soon as I got the airbox and all the other stuff back on. Took everything off again and just really yanged down on those clamps. No leak, yet. But now knowing about the special clamps, I wish I'd known about them sooner and will certainly use them when the whole setup eventually starts to leak again, as I'm almost sure it will.
 

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Thanks everyone for posting. My bike ('06 1000) did this once and then stopped. I thought maybe it was a too full tank issue. Then it did it again today, twice. I'll be fixing it before I ride again.
 
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