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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since a few months the clock would reset itself sometimes. Changed the battery, seemed fixed, but problem returned.
Today, after a rainy ride problem occured again. This time however there was also a delay with the instruments starting a few seconds after the engine did...

Thoughts?
 

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I had that problem, but only on engine start. That was due to an ageing battery. If your battery tests out good, then that should not be it.

Could be the connectors that connect the dash to the main wiring loom. May want to spray some contact cleaner in there to remove any oxidation, and pack them with silicon grease before reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had that problem, but only on engine start. That was due to an ageing battery. If your battery tests out good, then that should not be it.

Could be the connectors that connect the dash to the main wiring loom. May want to spray some contact cleaner in there to remove any oxidation, and pack them with silicon grease before reassembly.
Mine is also only on engine start. Battery is a new Yuasa one, bike starts Just fine.
Will check connectors, do Is need tot remove fairings to do that?
 

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I think, but am not sure, that you can access all the relevant connectors for the instrument cluster by only removing the lower lip (the U-shaped piece with those two fake grilles, which disconnects by unplugging that ~10 push rivets and two screws, just above the front wheel well).

There's three connectors that need to be checked. First one is the final connector that plugs into the instrument cluster. You can probably grope for that if you move your hand in via the underside of the instrument cluster from the center of the handlebars. Number two and three is the set of two intermediate connectors that lie down in the left side fairing piece, and can be clearly seen if you remove the lower lip that I talked about earlier.

Pic of the full wiring loom: Suzuki DL1000 V-STROM 2002 WIRING HARNESS - MSP - work your way from #5 downwards to see the connectors I'm talking about.
Pic of the lower lip piece that I mean: Suzuki DL1000 V-STROM 2002 COWLING BODY - MSP #6.
 

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Does this happen at anytime or only when the clutch leaver is being used ?
 

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Sometimes a worn or damaged clutch lever can cause similar issues. Rolex has a nice starting procedure to isolate this issue.

The clutch lever and the associated switch are typically damaged in a fall on the left hand side, and/or when people put on aftermarket clutch levers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sometimes a worn or damaged clutch lever can cause similar issues. Rolex has a nice starting procedure to isolate this issue.

The clutch lever and the associated switch are typically damaged in a fall on the left hand side, and/or when people put on aftermarket clutch levers.
I do have aftermarket, adjustable levers. I could try adjusting it out more, or replacing it with the original to see if the problems goes away.
 

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Sometimes the operation of the clutch leaver can manipulate the switches or wires on the left side.

It's a easy place to start your search.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was able to do some Investigation this weekend. Found a problem with the ground connection in the large connector near the dash.
287272

On the back this is the thicker black and white wire. Did my best to clean and reassemble.

I found online (including here) that this is pretty common. The main solution seems to be ro add headlights relays.
Another solution I found on YouTube was a guy that simply removed the pins from the connector and attached them directly (either soldered or with a quality connector that can handle the amps).

Any of you guys tried this second solution? Seems plausible, since the problem always seems to be the connector rather then the wiring itself .

For now I will use the"special" starting procedure to see if that temporarily solves my problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks guys, I'll give that a go. Any suggestions on brand of type of connector?
 
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