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Installing Switched Driving Lights on the 1050XT

5417 Views 33 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  daffod
Today my Denali lights arrived. But the auto dimmer unit has still yet to arrive.

So, I've started by mounting the lights on the engine bars and routing the cables to where they'll eventually live.

The setup which I'm going for will have a "dimmable" relay installed. But it needs to be connected to the high beam (or "brights"). I've looked at the headlight/dash assembly and it's a rather daunting prospect to dismantle so I can tap into the high beam wire.

So, I thought, "does it have a relay". Turned on the ignition, not the engine, then flicked the high/low beam switch. Sure enough, there is a relay clicking somewhere under the seat. I've removed the plastic cover (the cigarette lighter socket is a part of it), then I had to go out. So I've gotten no further.

Meanwhile I'm trying to find info on this relay as there are a few things with lots of wires coming out of them under that tray.

Just wondering if anyone has done a project like this and if so, how'd you go about getting to the high beam circuit?

When I started this, I found the fuse box. It has fuses for high and low beam, but they aren't switched with the switch. They have constant power going TO the high/low beams. So I can't use that. I was going to use one of those piggyback fuse blocks but it won't fit, anyway.

I'm trying to do this with the least amount of dismantling/wire tapping/cutting/soldering as I can.

I'll get there.
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Are the OE lights that bad, you need additional lights? Did you try LED bulb upgrade?

I don't ride at night so I installed a couple of AUX on a separate switch, just to be more visible during daylight, and the switch is on the handlebar and easy enough to use in case I get to ride when dark.
Are the OE lights that bad, you need additional lights? Did you try LED bulb upgrade?
The more the merrier, they say. It looks like it'd be easier to simply install these lights than to pull the headlight assembly apart. I looked at it but couldn't figure out where to start.

Anyway, these Denalis are a two stage brightness. On low beam around 50 percent of brightness, then on high beam they go on full. So they do two things - daytime running lights for more visibility (of me) and more light for night riding.

The OEM headlight is OK, but like any bike, nothing to write home about.
Are the OE lights that bad, you need additional lights? Did you try LED bulb upgrade?

I don't ride at night so I installed a couple of AUX on a separate switch, just to be more visible during daylight, and the switch is on the handlebar and easy enough to use in case I get to ride when dark.
LED'S are standard equipment on the DL1050 XT/XA.

Like every V-Strom I've had the headlight aim is way too low and aiming it properly makes a huge difference. Interesting most people will try and upgrade bulbs (where applicable) or add auxiliary lights when a simple adjusemt can make a huge difference.

..Tom
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Having said what I said in my previous message I have to say I did recently add auxiliary lights to my DL1050XA.

I didn't add them for more lights or any of the common excuses for adding more lights.

Many modern cars have standard LED headlights. From what I have heard these don't have replaceable bulbs. The LED is part of the circuit board. In the rare chance they burn out you replace the motherboard.

My understanding of my DL1050 is the "bulbs" are not replaceable. If the headlight burnt out what do you think that a local dealer would have the part in stock or even in the country?

I added the auxiliary lights to act as backup lights. Since I have then I might run them sometimes just because and the way I have mounted the switch it is quite possible I accidentally turn them on but I am sure I would notice that as the sunlight dims.


The main reason is just in case something happens to my main light.

(Not to temp fate but with over 91,000 km / 56,500+ miles the stock ones have been totally reliable.)

..Tom
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Today my Denali lights arrived. But the auto dimmer unit has still yet to arrive.

So, I've started by mounting the lights on the engine bars and routing the cables to where they'll eventually live.

The setup which I'm going for will have a "dimmable" relay installed. But it needs to be connected to the high beam (or "brights"). I've looked at the headlight/dash assembly and it's a rather daunting prospect to dismantle so I can tap into the high beam wire.

So, I thought, "does it have a relay". Turned on the ignition, not the engine, then flicked the high/low beam switch. Sure enough, there is a relay clicking somewhere under the seat. I've removed the plastic cover (the cigarette lighter socket is a part of it), then I had to go out. So I've gotten no further.

Meanwhile I'm trying to find info on this relay as there are a few things with lots of wires coming out of them under that tray.

Just wondering if anyone has done a project like this and if so, how'd you go about getting to the high beam circuit?

When I started this, I found the fuse box. It has fuses for high and low beam, but they aren't switched with the switch. They have constant power going TO the high/low beams. So I can't use that. I was going to use one of those piggyback fuse blocks but it won't fit, anyway.

I'm trying to do this with the least amount of dismantling/wire tapping/cutting/soldering as I can.

I'll get there.
View attachment 301715
How do,

I fitted Denali's to mine, using the Datadim.

The main relay is at the back of the bike.

Seat off, pop the grab handles/ top box rack off. Remove the plastic bodywork over rear light area. Remove the inner plastic trim (the one with the power socket in).

You're looking for the main body of the relay. Take your 12v switched from the Aux power socket wiring, & your main beam feed from the Yellow & Blue wire.

There was another thread on the forum where I posted the diagrams if that helps?

Great lights & with Datadim, effortlessly perfect 👌
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Attached a few screen shots. The realay you're looking for is No.23 on the yellow picture. Hope they help.

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Attached a few screen shots. The realay you're looking for is No.23 on the yellow picture. Hope they help.

View attachment 301761 View attachment 301762
Brilliant bud, should be a sticky.👍
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Stock lights on our Vstrom are real nice, but some additional lighting is better. I bought Daylight running lights from Denali, there small rectangular and mount them down near the brake calipers. I wired them to the 12 volt plug under the seat also connected a old Garmin GPS, Turns on when the bikes running!
I find the sides of the ditch don't light very well at all with the high beams. Even with lights properly adjusted. That blue and yellow wire is handy. On bottom of big plug in back.

Just tested new lights, night, then day! Dunno why anyone wouldn't add aux lights! Exceeds expectations.😃

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Thanks guys. I found a yellow wire which switches on and off with the high beam but I think that's the supply to the relay's solenoid, not the switch itself (the bit of the relay that does the actual switching.

I've not done any more, but I'll go looking for that yellow/blue wire. Thing is, going by these photos above the wiring is heavier than what I've seen so far under the rear cowl going to the relay box.

I've got the Denalis wired in based on the standard setup, sans the two stage intensity relay. They're bloody bright, alright.
I just used that wire as a trigger for a relay.

Probably your safest bet, make sure to add fuse.✌

You could try directly... But. Hard to say, you'd need to check draw on high beams, figure out your aux light draw, figure out wire gage being used and current fuse. If it's within threshold, you could do it, but I doubt they made the wiring with that much extra capacity.
That blue and yellow wire is handy. On bottom of big plug in back.
That's the fella! 👌

I'm no guru & I wired my Denalis direct. I decided worst case was a blown fuse & lesson learnt, but so far so good. Nearly 10,000km covered without a problem so far. A wiser man would probably used a relay & fuse 😜
I love the datadim system, they make great DRLs at 50% and that 50% is also great at night when on low beam & amazing at 100% on full beam!

I'm using the S4's. The listed power draw for a pair is 4.6amps. Hope that helps!
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Now I'm wondering if I can go without relay, listed amp draw for both is the same as yours. Lol

Too late now.😂
Now I'm wondering if I can go without relay, listed amp draw for both is the same as yours. Lol

Too late now.😂
🤣👍
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Installation has been completed except for the "datadim" relay which is still to arrive. The yellow/blue wire was tapped into for the high-beam trigger, tested and works as expected. The high beam trigger wire is fused.

There is another trigger wire. This one turns the lights on and off with the ignition. I use a Healtech Thunderbox for its power source as it comes on and off with the engine.

When the relay comes and is installed, I'll put the fuses in, turn it on and hopefully the smoke within the electrical components stays there.

Then I can do final adjustments to the lights themselves. As you can see in Photo One, they're a bit cockeyed.

Photo Two shows the wiring layout under the seat. I'll tidy it up once the relay is in and mounted in position.

Photo Three shows the on/off switch which is double sided taped to the cowl next to the dash.


Photo One
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Photo Two
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Photo Three
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I just completed the same install, only with amazon.ca aux lights (cheapo's). I didn't want a switch, but rather full-time amber driving lights (conspicuity reasons & ditch lights) and then a switched high-beam with the stock high-beam switch. So far it works really great, and I am more than impressed with the improved quality of light. I had no criticisms over the stock, but wanted more conspicuity and for my area - the ability to illuminate to the sides of the road better.
After looking at the harness & install options, I tested the aux lights and found a 0.9A draw consistently. So, I used a fused switched connection for the low-beam, and tapped into the high-beam wire on the headlight unit to act as the trigger wire for the high-beam.
I made a simple bracket so that it installs on the stock lower crash bar using the existing rubber mount. We will see over time how it does in that position. Unfortunately I haven't taken a picture of the lights installled. Attached is the wiring diagram for my additional lights & fuse block.
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Just a short note to ensure the newer guys know we have light bars, lights, and wiring harness with rocker switch mount that puts the switch where your thumb can easily reach it without removing your hand from the grip.

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The Datadim relay arrived today. Went out to the shed and plugged it in. Battery down in volts when I tried to start it.

Got it started. Tested the lights. Low beam, half intensity, high beam full intensity. Back to low beam, tested on/off switch. All good. Turned off bike. Lights stayed on. Hmmm.

Noticed that the power outlet and the Garmin Zumo XT which is fed from the Healtech Thunderbox were also on. The Denali lights are switched on/off via a white wire which requires a switched power supply, so I use the Thunderbox for that.

However, for some reason, the Thunderbox stays active after I turn the engine off if the Denalis are still on. When I switch them off via the pushbutton switch that comes with the kit, then the Thunderbox powers down to standby mode.

I left the Denalis switched off and started the bike. The Thunderbox performed normally. Powered up, got juice to the GPS, etc., then when I turned the bike off the Thunderbox went back to standby mode, as it should and power to the GPS, etc. was lost.

It must have been like this since yesterday when I finished wiring everything in, but the fuses for the Denalis were removed til I got the relay.

I can only guess at this, but something must be feeding back to the Thunderbox to keep it live.

I'll write to both Denali and Healtech to see if they have any answers. In the meantime I'll switch the lights off manually.

If they can't work something out for me then I'll look at powering the Denali switch wire from the taillight or maybe the aux power outlet under the seat which comes on and off with the ignition.

In the meantime I'll take the bike out for a run tonight to aim and test the lights.
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Something is draining the battery. Not sure if it's the Thunderbox or the Denalis (even though they are off). Bike struggled to turn over just now. I've disconnected the lights from the system. Will wait a while and see how the battery is.
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