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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Mechanically Challenged while Farkling/New DL650

New owner, here, of a 2009 DL650 ABS. This is my first 'new' bike. I bought an '81 Honda GL500 a couple of years ago when I took the MSF training and got my motorbike license. I still consider myself a very new rider.

Picked the Wee up this past Monday, I only have 7 miles on the odometer. I had no chance to ride during the week, but I looked forward to this weekend to get started on installing engine guards, skidplate, and luggage racks.

I'm not the most mechanically minded person, but I figured installing these items couldn't be THAT hard. I can tackle this... engine guards first.

Okay... I've broken off a ball end of a hex key, on the rear brake side, trying to get one of the hex bolts out. I tried to get the ball end out with a magnet to no avail. I thought maybe I could use super-glue to pull the broken ball end out and instead I've just glued the hex ball end in more securely.

I'm going to bed. Tomorrow, I'm going to Vintage Motorcycle Days at Mid-Ohio. I'll tackle trying to fix my stupid mistake, later. *sigh*
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The ball end is best used for speeding up attachment and detachment. The straight end should be used to snug down or break loose bolts. At this point, it would probably be best to use a high speed cutting tool such as a Dremel to cut a straight slot and use a flat bladed screwdriver with a hex shaft to allow grabbing the shaft with a crescent wrench.
 

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Acetone (a.k.a. finger nail polish remover) is a known solvent for these glues, soak the glued surfaces with this to soften the bond. This would be my first idea. The package for the glue probably gives you an idea of this, or check the mfr. website.

Super glue has a tendency to become brittle and lacks shear strength, so even though it holds like the dickens, it's pretty poor for resistance to shock. I've been told this is especially so as the glue in the bonded joint gets old. But, I wonder if giving the glued ball a few modest whacks would fracture the glue itself, aiding its removal? If it breaks the bond, it just might shake the offending piece of tool loose, too.

I don't know if super glue (cyanoacrylate, or CA glues) is affected by heat, but maybe try hitting it with a small propane flame out in a well ventilated area for a moment might help. Just don't melt any body plastic or blow up yourself and the bike in the process!

Before you put everything into final position, before mounting your bars and skid plate to the bike, look at the installation instructions for both the plate (SWM?) and the bars. (Dry fit all this stuff on the bench top before assembling on the bike.) The instructions for the crash bars says to put the connecting sleeve one way, but to attach the skid plate to the crash bars you have to turn the crash bar connecting sleeve around the other way. The plate will only attach to that sleeve when the sleeve it oriented in one position, I just can't recall which, but it's opposite of what the crash bar directions tell you to do. (The hex shaped recess on one side of the sleeve that receives the nut, or does it receive the bolt head...?, has to go in only one direction and not the other.) Hopes this makes sense, but nothing worse than having to disassemble the crash bars to reverse the orientation of that connecting tube to mount the plate. Ask me how I know...

After this little goof, you'll have plenty of time to forget about it while enjoying the ride. Happy Trails!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the advice. I am leaving for the AMA VMD here in a bit, I plan on taking lots of photos of motorbikes today. If I return early enough, I will tackle this stupid mechanical goof with a fresh mind, this afternoon/evening.

Thanks for the info on the SWM skid plate, regarding the engine guard connecting sleeve, Steve. That info will save me some frustration, I believe.
 
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