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2018 V-Strom 1K
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Discussion Starter #1
2018 DL1000

The instructions say NOT to adjust the link before installing, but I can't see how I'm going to adjust it AFTER it is installed.

Would need to drop the exhaust system to get a wrench on it.

Dang bolts were tight on that factory link. Used a 2' cheater bar on a 1/2" ratchet on one, and then snapped the end off of a 3/8" extension on the other one - (couldn't get a 1/2" drive in there).

Yes, working on the nut end. Removed the rear wheel to get the 17mm wrench on there and hooked a 1 1/4" big ole wrench into the open end of that one. hahahaha THAT worked.

Note to everyone else - install the lowering link BEFORE the centerstand. Don't ask me how I know that.

Have used this product on three other bikes and no issues.

Anyone installed one of these on a V-Strom 1000 ?
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Nobody ? LOL. OK - how about some pictures ?

It's cold and snowing here, so it's a good day to wrench. Removed the rear wheel. Measured from the floor to the center of the swingarm spool mount and got 13".

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The OEM link is 4.5 ", center to center.

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I loosened up the locknuts (off the bike), added loctite, and then installed the link loosely. Turned the center until the measurement from floor to swingarm spool was 14.2" (from 13.0") and then removed the link, put it in the vise and aligned & tightened.

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The rear tire is now 2.75" off the ground, on the OEM Suzuki center stand. I'd like to add that everything on the center stand lined up perfectly and installed way too easy. I can still put the bike on the center stand after lowering it, but it's a bit of a pull.

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Here's the finished product.

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I also ordered the Soupy's adjustable sidestand. Here's the lean - with the OEM side stand, after the lowering. I might have to send that adjustable side stand back.

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...and... on the center stand...

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Dropped the front an inch by raising the fork tubes

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The end.

Tune in tomorrow when we'll add some crash bars.
 

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Looks good. Looking forward to your future mods. I think mine is done, can’t wait for this weather to warm up!
 

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2019 V-Strom 1000 DL
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Thanks for this post! I have the Soupy's link, literally, in my hand and trying to figure out how much I have to lengthen it to lower 1-1/2 to 2 inches. Did you measure the final length of the link that lowered your bike 1.2" ?? Everything I've researched tells me that each 5mm is equal to 1/2" (approx.) I'm taking your word for it that there's no way to tighten everything after establishing the desired height that is suitable, so I'd like to just preset the new link before I install it. I also got the adjustable kickstand with the link in case I need it. If everything works out for the height that I can live with, and the center stand is too hard to get up with the lower height, I plan to have it modified, if possible!
 

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Head's up. Check the adjustable side stand BEFORE you install it. For me, it did not work. The sidestand was fabricated with soft metal, and there was nothing to assist in lifting the sidestand with my foot. In addition, the footprint of the sidestand was such that it dug into the blacktop. I was very unimpressed with the adjustable sidestand, and had someone cut down the OEM sidestand - that worked out fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Did you measure the final length of the link that lowered your bike 1.2" ?? Everything I've researched tells me that each 5mm is equal to 1/2" (approx.) I'm taking your word for it that there's no way to tighten everything after establishing the desired height that is suitable, so I'd like to just preset the new link before I install it. I also got the adjustable kickstand with the link in case I need it. If everything works out for the height that I can live with, and the center stand is too hard to get up with the lower height, I plan to have it modified, if possible!
I did not measure the link - I just measured the swing arm distance to the floor.
As it is now, my side stand is what I consider as the minimum lean. Lowering the bike any more than an inch will require shortening the side stand.

I can still get the bike up on the center stand, but it's a bit tough - so I cut a 45 degree angle on a short 1x6 pine board and then roll the rear wheel up on that. Makes it much easier.
 

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FWIW, the soupy's adjustable side stand with the extra $53 foot works well on my 09 650-it's well made.
lower 1-1/2 to 2 inches
RE; lowering 1.5"-2", be careful, I've read here that 1.5" is the max the rear should be lowered (good that you lowered the front forks 1"). I've played around with the rear seat height on my DL and found that when lowered more than 1", the center stand on the right side can scrape on certain right turns. I've also read about tires rubbing with a load so just be aware of the pitfalls of excessive lowering. I'm 5'7", 29" inseam so I really get it. With the 1" front/rear lowering setup I did, I can just flat foot it at a stop
 

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Man, that's a clean bike 😁

I haven't considered the lowering link, but I did go with the low OEM seat to solve my height challenged issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Man, that's a clean bike 😁

I haven't considered the lowering link, but I did go with the low OEM seat to solve my height challenged issues.
It was virtually brand-new at the time.

I recently installed the Sargent "low" seat, and they say 0.9" lower than the factory seat. I don't see where it is any lower than he factory seat.
How was that Suzuki "low" seat ?
 

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Head's up. Check the adjustable side stand BEFORE you install it. For me, it did not work. The sidestand was fabricated with soft metal, and there was nothing to assist in lifting the sidestand with my foot. In addition, the footprint of the sidestand was such that it dug into the blacktop. I was very unimpressed with the adjustable sidestand, and had someone cut down the OEM sidestand - that worked out fine.
That's what I did previously when I lowered my FJR's. You're correct, when I received the adjustable stand I had immediate concerns insofar as the base and whether it can withstand softer blacktop! It just looked like a ball instead of a plate. I noticed that they offer a pseudo plate to attach, to the tune of $53 bucks, and I don't see how that could help very much!
 

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Man, that's a clean bike 😁

I haven't considered the lowering link, but I did go with the low OEM seat to solve my height challenged issues.
I have the lowered seat on order, so before I do the lowering link project I'm going to see how it feels. I still think I'm going to need to lower it more, though. I am on my "tippy-toes" at a standstill and dropped it this past weekend while trying to navigate uneven gravel, and I'm an experienced rider (with, sadly, a 28" inseam!!). Fortunately I was hardly moving and the crash bars worked as they were designed!! Not a scratch on the bike!! So, I'm thinking with the lowered seat, and maybe an additional inch with the link, I'll be a lot more comfortable. I don't foresee a bunch of off-road rides, I'm mostly a street rider, so the loss of an aggressive turn here and there is a good trade-off for being (mostly!) flatfoot when standing still.
 

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It was virtually brand-new at the time.

I recently installed the Sargent "low" seat, and they say 0.9" lower than the factory seat. I don't see where it is any lower than he factory seat.
How was that Suzuki "low" seat ?
Definitely lower.. the spec says 30mm or 1.18 inches and I'd say that's about right. It allowed me to put my Sit 'n Fly back on for comfort.
 

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Here's the link to Suzuki Canada for the low seat:


I also found the seat to be more neutral... meaning I'm not driving my balls into the tank as much. The seat is harder and I suspect it will take 10k miles to soften up.
 

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Well, the project is complete! Soupy's link installed to maximum lowering (approx 1-7/8 inches...5-1/4 inch suggested maximum length on the link), the front tubes raised 1", and all is well. Rode it yesterday for 250 mile jaunt among Kentucky's twistys and the handling was not changed. No scrapes on the center stand with fairly aggressive turns or any other problems. I tried the Soupy's adjustable stand and as someone previously said, it sucked! So I had 2" removed from the original stand and the lean angle and accessibility is perfect! I went from absolute tippy-toes to almost flatfoot on both sides. Still waiting for the lowered seat!
 

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I tried the Soupy's adjustable stand and as someone previously said, it sucked!
I'm curious, what sucked about the Soupy's kick stand? Mine works well, but now you've got me wondering if I missed something wrong with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have one on an FJR1300. It doesn't seem as "robust" as the factory stand, but it works well. It could use a bigger foot.
 

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It could use a bigger foot.
They sell the "enlarged" foot for $53. Honestly, if the stand with foot weren't already on the bike, I'm not sure I'd shell out $53 for a 2" aluminum disc. I'd retrofit something on I fabricated myself. I typically use a 4" square flat electrical box cover to keep it from sinking in the mud. Used it yesterday when parking after rolling up to a head on car accident.
 

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I'm curious, what sucked about the Soupy's kick stand? Mine works well, but now you've got me wondering if I missed something wrong with it.
First of all, the foot. It's just a small "ball" at the end of it, and it immediately pushed into the soft ground on one of my first stops. In addition, it doesn't fit up under the bike and frame as well as the original and there is no "loop" on it that you can just put your boot on and kick down. Also, the piece on it that depresses the "safety button" that kills the engine if the stand is down and in gear, is not as consistent with the original, slightly larger, and doesn't depress the switch as smoothly as the original stand depresses it, causing a "hump" in the process of putting the stand to the ground. It also "hides" up underneath the frame so that you have to "dig" it out with the toe of you boot. I didn't try the $53.00 foot you can attach, and I'm not one to have to pull out a disc and fashion it every time I want to get off the bike!
 
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