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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a xenon HID upgrade kit from Amazon over the winter and figured while I am unable to ride recovering from my gall bladder removal surgery I would try to get the kit installed.

After installing one of these kits in my truck I am a huge fan of them, they are so much brighter and cleaner light than halogen (and get rid of the yellow tint to the light) and I feel make night driving so much safer. The added benefit on the bike is during the day they will be harder to miss.

The kit comes with 2 slim digital ballasts, 2 bixenon bulbs (that flip from low beam to high beam), and a wiring harness relay.

The kit I have is this one (9004): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050ZA7AI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Unfortunately there are a few issues with the kit, mainly that they expect you to ground each bulb at the bulb location. This is different the kit in my truck unfortunately. In a car this wouldnt be an issue but with the bike it obviously is. My plan is to run a ground wire from the battery along with the power wire and ground the bulbs to that wire.

I also will need to find a way to run the wireloom with the power wire and ground wire from the battery to the headlights.

The other thing that I need to work out is where to mount the slim digital ballasts. It looked like there was room to mount them inside the front fairing but I wasnt sure if this was safe.

Anyone with experience with these kits in the 2012+ ?

Thanks
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I put the ballasts on both sides of the fairing frame near the main frame connection. This is not my bike or even the same model but it shows the same positions.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
I put the ballasts on both sides of the fairing frame near the main frame connection. This is not my bike or even the same model but it shows the same positions.

Ahhh, ok I see whats going on there. How much disassembly is required to do that? Does it require removing the entire gauge cluster?

Also, was your's like mine where it required a ground per light and how did you handle the ground?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I took off the entire cowling to do the installation. I ran both power and ground to the battery.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Start with http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-2012/134617-gstrom-tank-removal-air-filter-access-photo-guide.html

From that point, there are two bolts holding the cowling frame to the main frame. The tab shown in the picture fits a slot in the main frame that holds the cowling frame in place when the bolts are removed. Then the unit is moved to the side to release. Of course the wiring connectors need to be separated first. The new wiring needs connectors in the same area. Also, an inner plastic part around the radiator must be removed from each side.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Start with http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-2012/134617-gstrom-tank-removal-air-filter-access-photo-guide.html

From that point, there are two bolts holding the cowling frame to the main frame. The tab shown in the picture fits a slot in the main frame that holds the cowling frame in place when the bolts are removed. Then the unit is moved to the side to release. Of course the wiring connectors need to be separated first. The new wiring needs connectors in the same area. Also, an inner plastic part around the radiator must be removed from each side.
Oh wow so I must do a full tank removal?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Oh wow so I must do a full tank removal?
I'm not saying you must. I'm saying I did it that way. I added a lot of stuff at once and changed colors so I did a full dis-assembly for best access.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm not saying you must. I'm saying I did it that way. I added a lot of stuff at once and changed colors so I did a full dis-assembly for best access.
Ok thanks, I will play around with it tomorrow and see if I can avoid the full tank removal.
 

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you dont need to remove the fuel tank - remove all the tuper wear from both sides of the fuel tank and the whole front assembly slide out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
you dont need to remove the fuel tank - remove all the tuper wear from both sides of the fuel tank and the whole front assembly slide out.
Thanks, will the HID bulbs go in the holes for the oem bulbs? In the manual for the Hid bulbs it talks about drilling out the housing to fit the HID bulbs which I am not going to do.

On my truck the bulbs were direct replacements for the oem bulbs, I expected it to be the same here unless 9004 is different in some way.
 

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not sure which HID bulbs you are talking about - but most if not all Plug n Play kits requires no modification to light housing at all.

If you are looking at proper HID Projector kits - then it's an entirely different stories - you would need to bake the housings to pull them apart and fit the projector through that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
not sure which HID bulbs you are talking about - but most if not all Plug n Play kits requires no modification to light housing at all.

If you are looking at proper HID Projector kits - then it's an entirely different stories - you would need to bake the housings to pull them apart and fit the projector through that way.

yeah its just the plug and play kits. Here is the page in the manual that talks about drilling a hole:

 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The hole is for the back cap. It prevents dust and water from getting into the headlight body. The V-Strom cap is rubber. You can cut it with a knife or scissors. The bulb will fit nicely into the headlight housing. Then the cap is modified to clear.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
The hole is for the back cap. It prevents dust and water from getting into the headlight body. The V-Strom cap is rubber. You can cut it with a knife or scissors. The bulb will fit nicely into the headlight housing. Then the cap is modified to clear.
Ahhhh I see what you mean, I assume to clear the big bulbous thing that sticks off the back of the bulb. Does it require cutting through the entire rubber cap or just enlarging it?
 

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in my previous PnP install, the black knob part behind the bulb was able to be unpluged by twisting out of the way. I then instal the bulb and water-proofing rubber cap, then reinstalled that black knob thing. No cutting was involved in my instal.

you might want to try that out first.
 

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I'm going to be the naysayer.
I messed around with HID lighting on all of my vehicles for several years, including my 83 Yamaha Venture & 05 650 VStrom. What a royal pain in the butt it was, even though I loved the brightness and light color. The bulbs & ballasts never lasted very long, and it got to be SO tedious to have to try & find the right connection combination replacement parts, and then have to dig back into my bike's to replace the system AGAIN because I couldn't find the right connection combo... I would have to buy multiple sets @ a Time to have enough bulbs & ballasts with matching connections to keep my lights working. Any more I get very pissed off to have to spend what little free time I have repeatedly messing around with flaky HID lighting. There are great alternatives, and now I can RIDE my motorcycle with my free time instead of always digging into the bike to re-replace crappy lighting components.
Doug
 

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HID is a luck of the draw kind of thing. Components will either crap out early or long outlast halogen. I spend hundreds of dollars on a Futurevision kit that burned out in a couple of months. I spent $60 on a VVME kit that may last forever.

Also, the VVME lamps have a bayonet connection of the wire module to the lamp. The lamp body fits in the stock rubber cap perfectly and the wire module connects to the lamp after the cap is installed.

As far as what will need to be done to get the cap to fit in this case, you're the one with the parts in your hand and will know better than us. There are too many variables in lamps to know from a distance. I used some hi-temp silicone seal to make the joint water and dust proof on the enlarged hole with the Futurevision lamps. The VVME lamps required no additional attention.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
HID is a luck of the draw kind of thing. Components will either crap out early or long outlast halogen. I spend hundreds of dollars on a Futurevision kit that burned out in a couple of months. I spent $60 on a VVME kit that may last forever.

Also, the VVME lamps have a bayonet connection of the wire module to the lamp. The lamp body fits in the stock rubber cap perfectly and the wire module connects to the lamp after the cap is installed.

As far as what will need to be done to get the cap to fit in this case, you're the one with the parts in your hand and will know better than us. There are too many variables in lamps to know from a distance. I used some hi-temp silicone seal to make the joint water and dust proof on the enlarged hole with the Futurevision lamps. The VVME lamps required no additional attention.

I think i am finally going to try to install this HID kit. I am going to attempt to do it without removing anything. There seems to be enough room to install it all, but I guess I will see.

I am iffy about removing the front of the bike in one piece as I have installed many add ons like a hard wire for my radar, gps and cell phones, all which are wired to and mounted to the front dash area of the bike.
 
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