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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm elbow deep in replacing the brake lines on my 2008 DL650A. I've come up with a couple of questions that I hope the community might give me some clues on.

1 - The kit includes some short (about 6") lines that run from the ABS block (at the triple tree) back to the front ends of the rigid lines that go all the way back to the ABS control unit. When I look in from the front, it sure looks like I'll have to remove the tank to access the rear ends of those 6" lines. Any suggestions or tricks for me here, or do I just bite the bullet? I'll attach some photos, progressively zooming in to the connections.
I asked Richland Rick, and he said that he thought it was not necessary to remove the tank, but also added that the 2008 was different from the years just after (or before?) it, so he wasn't sure.

2- The three way splitter block that was attached to the left fork has a bolt that also helps hold the fender to the fork. With the splitter block gone (the new hoses use a different splitter connection), the bolt will be way too long. I was just going to buy a shorter bolt. Am I missing something here?

Thanks for any help.
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View from in front of the bike

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Moved in closer

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Zoomed way in. That's the original ABS brake hose coming in from the left, and the connection in question way the heck back in there.
 

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Can't help you with #1 because I had the tank and cowling removed when I did the brake lines on my 2007 Wee. For #2 I think I just cut or trimmed off all the connections to the that three way block and used the long bolt so the block was just a spacer. I don't have the bike anymore and it was a few years ago so can't confirm and my memory could be wrong/bad.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It takes maybe 15 minutes to pull the tank. Why skin your knuckles?
Too late, already skinned them on half a dozen other things

But yes, I expect I'll pull the tank.

However I'm also learning that the connections for the rear brake may be worse.

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However I'm also learning that the connections for the rear brake may be worse.
I don't recall the rear brake line being particularly difficult. I'd recommend getting the special wrench to remove/install the line nuts. I tried using a regular wrench and almost rounded the brake line nut which would have been a disaster. Pic below.

Also, be sure to replace the heat shield because the rear brake line is so close to the rear exhaust header. See this link California Winter Project

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't recall the rear brake line being particularly difficult. I'd recommend getting the special wrench to remove/install the line nuts. I tried using a regular wrench and almost rounded the brake line nut which would have been a disaster. Pic below.

Also, be sure to replace the heat shield because the rear brake line is so close to the rear exhaust header. See this link California Winter Project

View attachment 309968
Thanks. I spent quite a while getting the battery holder out, to get access to the ABS unit connections, and then quit for the day.
Did you have to remove the battery holder on your bike?

I'll look into those wrenches.

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I aim replace my brake lines next year when I replace my coolant and air filter. Will have everything stripped off the bike to do them.
I don't have tiny oriental hands😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I aim replace my brake lines next year when I replace my coolant and air filter. Will have everything stripped off the bike to do them.
I don't have tiny oriental hands
Does your bike have ABS? If not, then at least the front brake should be easy. Also, I get the impression that it's different for different model years.

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Sintered pads are great for the track and aggressive riding on the street but they may not be the best pad for off road. The sintered pad's metal content achieves great initial bite that may not be best for the dirt. The metal in the pad also conducts more heat to the calipers so you need to flush your brake fluid more often.
 

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Thanks. I spent quite a while getting the battery holder out, to get access to the ABS unit connections, and then quit for the day. Did you have to remove the battery holder on your bike?
I don't recall (it was 6 years ago) but probably. The bike was stripped down for a refurb as documented in the thread linked in my post #5 above. Wish I could be more help but mainly posted to recommend using the special wrenches to avoid stripping the nut and to be sure to replace the heat shield on the brake line.
 

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Special wrenches
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They are called flare nut wrenches
 
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